THIS IS THE REASON AXLE NUTS BACK OFF
The right rear is backing off first because if you have absolutely any slack in the splines to axle fitment that forward drive torque eventually turns hub slightly which turns the washer and nut slightly in the direction to loosen it. The factory fit is not precise enough to stop movement and once it moves and breaks the loctite it just gets worse over time. On the left side, it tries to tighten the nut until it moves enough to break the loctite. Takes longer because it's trying to tighten it. Hopefully that explains it in a simple way we all can understand.
In addition to this all 4 wheel vehicles are more stressed on the right rear. It's basically because we make sharper turns to the right than the left on roads and wide trails. Your right rear tire on any 4 wheel vehicle will show more wear over time than the left as the tire spins and or slides during the turn. A solid axle like we have makes it even worse. Ask any tire shop...
WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT
So that sloppy fit in the splines is trying to back the nut off. Cotter key can only do so much to keep castle nut from moving, but wont stop the spline movement and soft material will eventually be eaten away over time. Permanent loctite and using a larger cotter key will help limit movement and I have used that with success. Largest cotter key that fit my TRE was M4.8 x 38mm or 3/16 x 1-1/2 inch. Can use Dorman Part # 312133.3 for automobiles. I'm sure you can find stronger ones from McMaster-Carr or other places. This doesn't do anything to help the 180 torque spec breaking the axle. Lower torque 138ft lbs and loctite is the answer for that IMO. Can't do anything about the engineered clearance in the hub spline to axle play without taking a big step that makes it difficult to remove for service. Hubert was using loctite on the splines of his and Pastrana's RZRs at one time. Heating and using a puller to remove the hub would be only way to get them off. That could damage other parts such as the bearing seals or warp the hub. That's the next step beyond what I want to do at this point myself. Using the largest cotter key and loctite Red 277 with axle torqued to 138ft lbs seems to be good solution. If splines are already worn you might need to start with new parts.
I decided to use the Hess Racing nuts, harden pins and circlip. The pin is smaller, but it is harden steel like a drill blank and will not bend or break. May install largest pin that will fit at some point. When installed with loctite and indexed so pin is centered the pin moves easy and you can check the pin for movement. If the pin is not loose in the hole and doesn't move it indicates the nut has moved and the loctite has failed to hold. However, the pin wont shear and allows me to use the lower axle torque to stop breaking axles.
I hate being stranded far from help and nearly impossible to reach by most trucks to get my rig out or bring parts and tools to fix it. If you loose an axle nut or break the axle at the threads the brakes fail and you better be ready for it.
Hope this helps you guys who have these issues and those who want to prevent them.
The right rear is backing off first because if you have absolutely any slack in the splines to axle fitment that forward drive torque eventually turns hub slightly which turns the washer and nut slightly in the direction to loosen it. The factory fit is not precise enough to stop movement and once it moves and breaks the loctite it just gets worse over time. On the left side, it tries to tighten the nut until it moves enough to break the loctite. Takes longer because it's trying to tighten it. Hopefully that explains it in a simple way we all can understand.
In addition to this all 4 wheel vehicles are more stressed on the right rear. It's basically because we make sharper turns to the right than the left on roads and wide trails. Your right rear tire on any 4 wheel vehicle will show more wear over time than the left as the tire spins and or slides during the turn. A solid axle like we have makes it even worse. Ask any tire shop...
WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT
So that sloppy fit in the splines is trying to back the nut off. Cotter key can only do so much to keep castle nut from moving, but wont stop the spline movement and soft material will eventually be eaten away over time. Permanent loctite and using a larger cotter key will help limit movement and I have used that with success. Largest cotter key that fit my TRE was M4.8 x 38mm or 3/16 x 1-1/2 inch. Can use Dorman Part # 312133.3 for automobiles. I'm sure you can find stronger ones from McMaster-Carr or other places. This doesn't do anything to help the 180 torque spec breaking the axle. Lower torque 138ft lbs and loctite is the answer for that IMO. Can't do anything about the engineered clearance in the hub spline to axle play without taking a big step that makes it difficult to remove for service. Hubert was using loctite on the splines of his and Pastrana's RZRs at one time. Heating and using a puller to remove the hub would be only way to get them off. That could damage other parts such as the bearing seals or warp the hub. That's the next step beyond what I want to do at this point myself. Using the largest cotter key and loctite Red 277 with axle torqued to 138ft lbs seems to be good solution. If splines are already worn you might need to start with new parts.
I decided to use the Hess Racing nuts, harden pins and circlip. The pin is smaller, but it is harden steel like a drill blank and will not bend or break. May install largest pin that will fit at some point. When installed with loctite and indexed so pin is centered the pin moves easy and you can check the pin for movement. If the pin is not loose in the hole and doesn't move it indicates the nut has moved and the loctite has failed to hold. However, the pin wont shear and allows me to use the lower axle torque to stop breaking axles.
I hate being stranded far from help and nearly impossible to reach by most trucks to get my rig out or bring parts and tools to fix it. If you loose an axle nut or break the axle at the threads the brakes fail and you better be ready for it.
Hope this helps you guys who have these issues and those who want to prevent them.
Glad I can contribute to the forum.
