Since this thread carries on for a few pages I’ve edited this post to include conclusions for those that only want the results.
Disclaimers:
This is personal opinion. You may reach other conclusions.
Motor oil:
I use and suggest Shell Rotella T-6 5w-40 in most things I’d rather have a 10w-50 for my turbo, but we suffer from fuel-based viscosity dilution in these quickly. I believe changing the oil >40 hours is the smarter play, and so cost is a consideration. And again, Poo factory oil is easily beat.
For high heat operation and turbo's I prefer Mobile 1 Advanced 15W-50 in a 5 qt container. # 122384.
BTW, I go back and forth between these two, and can make a solid argument for either in the turbo). Both are under $25 and even Walmart sells them.
Filter:
I happen prefer the Fram XG7317. If I get around to a filter relocation project that will change to something larger. Read post #2 on the link below for why:
www.rzrforums.net
Demand Drive:
This is a pretty basic hydraulic fluid. Technically I prefer Amsoil’s ATHQT (tractor hydraulic fluid) as it covers all temperature extremes. However, the devil is in the details: Buying Amsoil is stupid inconvenient, and shipping it gets expensive. So if you can find ATHQT (quart) locally, great. Next up is Amsoil’s AUFDQT-EA, and you should be able to get that at any local powersports store. (Ace hardware will order it for you with no shipping!!)
But I have no reason to believe Poo’ Demand Drive is a poor performer. Also, John Deere’s J-20D or equivalents (available practically anywhere) is perfectly fine. J-20C would be for severe heat use.
Pick your poision, any is better than not maintaining it!
AGL:
AGL is expected to cover three very different Rzr types, and in my mind can’t be optimized for any of them.
Machines with chain drive transmissions and separate final drive fluid:
I suggest a low viscosity Manual Transmission Fluid rated at GL-4. I would NOT run an ATF. Research shows they generally don't have EP or AW additives (extreme pressure, anti-wear). Amsoil’s #MTF, and Pennzoil’s Synchromesh appear to be good choices. You aren’t going to use lots, so I suppose I’d spring for the Amsoil if you can find it locally. If not Pennzoil’s Synchromesh will be great.
Want to know LOT’s more?
Synchromesh fluids and GL-# ratings....
Synchromesh Manual Transmission Lubricants
1000’s and related with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, and chain drive reverse:
I think Mopar’s Synthetic 70W80 gear oil is perfect for these. That’s part number 68227765AA. This thing meets MT-1, GL-5, and J2360 specs, so it’s pretty good, yet light enough to not hurt a chain. (That’s a manual transmission oil rating and two high load hypoid gear ratings! Pretty darn impressive!)
Turbo’s and others with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, no chain drive at all, and higher output engines
While I believe the Mopar would work well here, I suggest Redlines group IV synthetic 75W85 gear oil. (It falls on the lighter side of the 75W’s and is a real group IV synthetic.)
All of the above are pretty good oils. Push come to shove I think you could run the Mopar oil in everything and get away with it. I'm very very tempted to run it in my turbo.
What follows is the thought process, results of a fair amount of research, and fellow members input.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original Post
VOA research has shown Polaris AGL to be a 0W to 5W oil. While the additive package could be found in a motor oil, the oil analyst suggested it was very much like tractor hydraulic oil. In fact, for a time Amsoil themselves stipulated their synthetic tractor hydraulic fluid as a replacement.
Today Amsoil stipulates a GL-5 gear oil rated at 75W-90 to replace AGL. However, while the cold flow viscosity of such an oil has quite a range, that range starts at 10W and could be as high as 20W (on the motor oil J300 table). Note then the possible range never touches the 0W-5W range AGL reportedly occupies.
Now I’m not saying this won’t work, or perhaps be even better. I AM saying it appears to no longer be a direct replacement. Might this void warranty? Since its viscosity is higher, doesn’t this eliminate Magnuson-Moss? Is cold operation compromised?
And what might Amsoil have to say? I’ve seen no explanation for why they now specify a thicker rated oil, and/or what that might mean in cooler operating situations. Is there a case that it clings or climbs better (this is a splash lubrication application)? Might it be that their oil actually does meet 5W flow rating? I’ve not seen a lower cold viscosity gear oil rating (J306) than 75W, and perhaps there isn’t one.
Anybody got a great Amsoil contact that would care to comment? I’d like to change my tranny oil, and I’d like to use Amsoil, but……
Respect to all,
D
Disclaimers:
This is personal opinion. You may reach other conclusions.
- I no longer consider Mobile or Amsoil to be the lubrication leaders they once were. I will use their oils in the right time and place, but today only Redline committs to delivering Group IV oils.
- Many believe “factory oils for me”. Yet VOA (virgin oil analysis) has shown Polaris oils to be mediocre.
- Polaris PS-4
- It’s important to know that the SAEJ300 (engine oil) standard and the J306 (gear oil) standard are quite different. It’s also worth knowing that two different 75W-90 gear oils can have very different viscosities. 75W gear oil, as an example, spans the low side of 10w motor oils, any 15w, and midway through the 20w. That’s a lot of viscosity variance.
Motor oil:
I use and suggest Shell Rotella T-6 5w-40 in most things I’d rather have a 10w-50 for my turbo, but we suffer from fuel-based viscosity dilution in these quickly. I believe changing the oil >40 hours is the smarter play, and so cost is a consideration. And again, Poo factory oil is easily beat.
For high heat operation and turbo's I prefer Mobile 1 Advanced 15W-50 in a 5 qt container. # 122384.
BTW, I go back and forth between these two, and can make a solid argument for either in the turbo). Both are under $25 and even Walmart sells them.
Filter:
I happen prefer the Fram XG7317. If I get around to a filter relocation project that will change to something larger. Read post #2 on the link below for why:

RZR Maintenance -Oils and Filters - The Quick and Dirty...
Disclaimer: This summary is written for those ask me “ what should I use, and I don’t want to read why”, both online and IRL. I’m hopeful this help us all. It is, however, only one man’s opinions. Break-In Steps: Immediately: Replace the stock air filter with the Donaldson Nano filter Drain...
Demand Drive:
This is a pretty basic hydraulic fluid. Technically I prefer Amsoil’s ATHQT (tractor hydraulic fluid) as it covers all temperature extremes. However, the devil is in the details: Buying Amsoil is stupid inconvenient, and shipping it gets expensive. So if you can find ATHQT (quart) locally, great. Next up is Amsoil’s AUFDQT-EA, and you should be able to get that at any local powersports store. (Ace hardware will order it for you with no shipping!!)
But I have no reason to believe Poo’ Demand Drive is a poor performer. Also, John Deere’s J-20D or equivalents (available practically anywhere) is perfectly fine. J-20C would be for severe heat use.
Pick your poision, any is better than not maintaining it!
AGL:
AGL is expected to cover three very different Rzr types, and in my mind can’t be optimized for any of them.
Machines with chain drive transmissions and separate final drive fluid:
I suggest a low viscosity Manual Transmission Fluid rated at GL-4. I would NOT run an ATF. Research shows they generally don't have EP or AW additives (extreme pressure, anti-wear). Amsoil’s #MTF, and Pennzoil’s Synchromesh appear to be good choices. You aren’t going to use lots, so I suppose I’d spring for the Amsoil if you can find it locally. If not Pennzoil’s Synchromesh will be great.
Want to know LOT’s more?
Synchromesh fluids and GL-# ratings....
Synchromesh Manual Transmission Lubricants
1000’s and related with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, and chain drive reverse:
I think Mopar’s Synthetic 70W80 gear oil is perfect for these. That’s part number 68227765AA. This thing meets MT-1, GL-5, and J2360 specs, so it’s pretty good, yet light enough to not hurt a chain. (That’s a manual transmission oil rating and two high load hypoid gear ratings! Pretty darn impressive!)
Turbo’s and others with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, no chain drive at all, and higher output engines
While I believe the Mopar would work well here, I suggest Redlines group IV synthetic 75W85 gear oil. (It falls on the lighter side of the 75W’s and is a real group IV synthetic.)
All of the above are pretty good oils. Push come to shove I think you could run the Mopar oil in everything and get away with it. I'm very very tempted to run it in my turbo.
What follows is the thought process, results of a fair amount of research, and fellow members input.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original Post
VOA research has shown Polaris AGL to be a 0W to 5W oil. While the additive package could be found in a motor oil, the oil analyst suggested it was very much like tractor hydraulic oil. In fact, for a time Amsoil themselves stipulated their synthetic tractor hydraulic fluid as a replacement.
Today Amsoil stipulates a GL-5 gear oil rated at 75W-90 to replace AGL. However, while the cold flow viscosity of such an oil has quite a range, that range starts at 10W and could be as high as 20W (on the motor oil J300 table). Note then the possible range never touches the 0W-5W range AGL reportedly occupies.
Now I’m not saying this won’t work, or perhaps be even better. I AM saying it appears to no longer be a direct replacement. Might this void warranty? Since its viscosity is higher, doesn’t this eliminate Magnuson-Moss? Is cold operation compromised?
And what might Amsoil have to say? I’ve seen no explanation for why they now specify a thicker rated oil, and/or what that might mean in cooler operating situations. Is there a case that it clings or climbs better (this is a splash lubrication application)? Might it be that their oil actually does meet 5W flow rating? I’ve not seen a lower cold viscosity gear oil rating (J306) than 75W, and perhaps there isn’t one.
Anybody got a great Amsoil contact that would care to comment? I’d like to change my tranny oil, and I’d like to use Amsoil, but……
Respect to all,
D