their has been talk of them and on the mcx turbo both seem good but most people seem to go with the mcx.

 

GOOD NEWS!!

Trey Riley, from HiPerformance emailed me back today.
he answered a couple of questions of mine and said that they tried to get on over here on the forum a while back but the admin. never wrote them back, but they tried again today!

he gave me tons of information and seems like a great guy to talk to. he insisted i call and talk to them directly very soon.

 

Don't know much bout turbos,but 5500 seems on the high end.

 

this is not your conventional turbo that they build. special stuff cost more.

plus you get a complete clutch kit and digital/waterproof AFR guage & O2 sensor


its worth it to me


wait till they get on ther forum and talk about their kits

 

Hi, I'm Trey Riley. Cody was kind enough to let me know about this thread. We are the manufactures of the advanced Aerocharger Turbo® and the newest turbo kit for the RZR. I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Cody is correct in that what is different about our kit is that it uses our "specialty" turbo, the Aeroocharger®. This is a self-contained, non-flooded ceramic ball bearing turbo that features our VATN Technology (Variable Area Turbine Nozzle). VATN is a vaned turbine system that maximizes turbo boost response. This means it is the fastest spooling and most efficient turbo on the market. This is the fastest kit in the world.

Our kit comes with a clutch system (specifically designed by EPI), custom Gibson Header and Exhaust, O2 AFR Gauge, Boost Gauge, and inter-cooler. Everything is pre-assemled into easy to install sub-assemblies and usually takes about 2 hours to install (not including the clutch).

You can read more about it at:
HiPer RZR Kit

Let me know if you have any questions I can perhaps answer. Thanks for your time. Trey

 

trey if i understand your post it has no oil line to it? so does it have a oil resivor built in? .... do you keep the comp stock or lower it? ....do you include a programer with it?.... and last do you also add a 3rd inj to the kit just things i think people will want to know? thanks....john

 

Hi Johnny, yes you correct. It is a self-contained oil reservoir that uses a wicking system to slowly draw oil from a reservoir into the bearing bore. Once their, it is turned into a fine "mist of oil" that lubricates the bearings. The oil system only needs to be checked about once a year or about as often as normal maintenance (whichever comes first). Simply add oil to top it off. This is a loss oil system that uses small amounts of oil VERY slowly over a long period of time. It is an extremely reliable and efficient system and has been used in some military applications where the bearings spin at over 100,000 RPM for 8-10 years on a 24 x 7 schedule (equivalent to over over 80,000 hours at maximum boost.)

Our system runs at lower absolute cylinder temperature than conventional turbos. We have lower charge tube temperatures, much less backpressure, and can run lower boost (and make more horsepower.) This makes adding shims and lowering compression unnecessary with our standard boost levels running on pump gas. We have video about our "positive delta" on our website that highlights this being demonstrated with our kit. If you're interested, you can check it out at http://www.aerocharger.com/video/Positive Delta.wmv.

Sorry, I should have mentioned a EFI controller is included in the kit! A 3rd injector is utilized as well.

Martin, the bottom axis is time, not RPM. RPM is the black line. Sorry for the confusion. We've had reports in the field of higher HP numbers than 82 (88 was reported on a dyno two weeks ago in Utah), but we like to advertise the 82 number as that is what we consistently experienced.

Thanks.... Trey

 

What kind of HP are u seeing out of these kits?

 

Hey Guys --

Check out the "Link" Trey posted -- And you'll see all your questions are answered -- So far !!

82+ HP speaks my kind of language .. .. :22yikes:

Dave

 

Did anyone else see there dyno graph on their site? It shows 50hp and 60tq at 0 RPM... Looks fishy to me.

 

Is that crank horsepower ?

What is the rear wheel horsepower?

 

Martin,
50 HP is at about 4100RPM, the scales on the dyno are weird. It looks like RPM on right side, HP on left and thousanths of seconds on bottom. So chart shows 50 HP at approx 4100 RPM at zero seconds of run and reaches 82 HP at 62oo RPM after 4 seconds. Hope this helps people looking at Dyno chart

 

That makes more sense. I thought I saw RPM at the bottom but I didnt. Thanks!

So is this a motor dyno? or wheel dyno?

 

looks like wheel to me

 

if memory serves , the aerocharger's turbo has no oil circulating through it from the motor but instead has about 4 ? ounces of some kind of "high tech" synthetic oil stored inside the turbo. seems like a couple years back a lot of people were trying these aerocharger kits on snowmobiles and banshees and were burning up alot of turbos...

 

seems like a couple years back a lot of people were trying these aerocharger kits on snowmobiles and banshees and were burning up alot of turbos...

Seems the internet is full of misleading information. Yes the aerochargers were used and are still used on lots of two stroke applications. It is the only turbo that will work on a 2 stroke. It also works well with a 2 stroke powerband where normal turbo lag would be horrible with a pipey 2 cycle engine.

Now do you know why "people" were blowing up turbos? Because they are not run/setup properly or for reliability. In actuality the snowmobiles don't have problems at all and hundreds of them are used every year. On banshees I am sure there were a few "blown" turbos since they were installed on drag bike applications that were pushed to the limit.

You cannot expect a turbo to work for long in applications of extreme compressor pressure ratios that drag motors are being exposed to. No turbo is going to survive sending pistons through them when you blow the motor because your making triple or more stock hp.

A local Kansas racer pulled 150+ hp out of a Honda 250R with a sabertooth cylinder at 15psi, the turbo never failed but the transmission sure did. Something will always break when it is pushed far beyond its limits. The RZR kit is not even close to the turbo's limits however.

 

How many of these turbos have u sold, any problems with them?

 

how do the turbos hold up in mudd bogging we use nitrous around here but if they want a test dummy i would be glad to put one on the razilla!

 

This kit was engineered for normal amounts of mud and water encountered while having fun on the trail, but as a general rule submerging any turbo for extended periods of time isn't a good idea.

 

Thanks for the questions.... Historically, snowmobiles have been our biggest market. Our minimal back-pressure and self-contained oil was great for two stroke engines. Plus, the extremely responsive boost really shines when navigating in and out of trees, slaloms, etc. We shipped over 400 turbos for the snowmobile market alone this year and are continuing to grow to meet the increasing demand. EFI has really helped that market as well.

Supersonictoys has a good memory! Yes, the larger size Aerocharger does hold about 4oz, of synthetic oil. The smaller size (that as we use on the RZR holds about 2 oz.) You only need to top off the oil level about once a year or with regular maintenance.

In regards to the "burning up turbos" comment, I'm sure of the specific instances you are referring, but the Aerocharger does have a long history and was around for much of the early development of turbo sleds. In the last 16 months, I've been responsible for operations and have seen every turbo submitted for repair or warranty. As long as the turbo is not abused (i.e., trying to make 400 horsepower and on a turbo rated for 250), they last a long time and are extremely reliable. It doesn't like to have bolts and screwdrivers dropped into the intake, but then again no turbo does!

We offer a full engineering staff that is available for free consultation to anyone making new Aerocharger kits. This helps new kit developers to better understand their specific performance envelopes.

One of the goals of the RZR kit was to manufacture the best turbo kit in the world. This kit was designed by the same engineers responsible for designing the turbo. Remember, we are not just a reseller of turbos, we are the OEM Engineering and Manufacturing them. We utilized the latest in data logging technology to build it to both maximize performance and ensure long-term reliability and drivability. I could go into many of the details of the kit, but that might be too much for this forum.

Be happy to answer anything else I can. Thanks

 

Thanks for the questions....
Be happy to answer anything else I can. Thanks

MCX says "MC Xpress kits include a unique TCV. This turbo control valve automatically increases turbo pressure with an increase in elevation to maintain sea level horsepower." (on their website)

How does the Aerocharger handle changes in elevation?

 

Trey .........

In considering your RzR "Kit" -- I've looked at your Web Site and the various links and have a few questions and a couple of observations ...........

This kit comes without a warranty. No where on your site is warranty mentioned.

In your "Contact Us" link -- I don't see where you are located.

In one of the videos -- The dash of the RzR is shown and below the instrument cluster are two digital gauges. They seem to read more/less the same values -- Am I to assume these were A/F ratio digital gauges - One for each cylinder ??

If so -- I may like one of these as opposed to the round A/F gauge.

Your site does mention options -- Polishing/Plating and Powder coating and shielding. No pic's of each or best for this application and no pricing.

Just thinking out loud here ...........

On the fuel controller - I'm assuming this is user set according to the A/F ratio throughout the RPM range of the engine. Anything on the horizion by a 3rd party manfacturer where this is automatically adjusted ?? Personally - I'm not really interested in having to continually monitor and keep adjusting.

Air intake -- Your kit places it between the seats about shoulder height as I see it in one picture. I'm concerned about the noise and perhaps an alternate location and the use of a different - Much more effective type of air filter.

Exhaust -- Sticks out farther than I'd prefer .. I realize the design limitations of the components used dictate this -- Any other alternative to shorten it up ??

Repacking of the muffler -- Does it need to be ??

Adjustment of boost. I'm assuming the turbo is user adjustable -- How and what are the boost levels -- Low/Hi this turbo is capbable of. I'm sure grade of gas/fuel used determins boost -- What are the values ??

I'm thinking -- Running pump gas and the occasional use of race gas and increasing turbo boost -- And this falls in line with a fully automatic fuel module.

Another idle thought -- A boost knob .. Dash mounted -- Perhaps an option ??

I'd like to view your installation/Maintance manual on line with a clickable link on your website as this would answer most questions and would accquaint me better with your system.

What is the sound (DB) level of the exhaust ?? I run the Oregon Dunes and I have to meet the State mandate minimum noise level.

With the plumbing of the intercooler - Can I still have my lock n ride storage box in the bed ?? Important to me as I carry essential tools/parts in it.

Depending on where you are at -- Do you have a test mule RzR with the kit on it ??

Are you a direct supplier or do you have a dealer network ??

Do you attend any of the trade shows -- I've not seen your company represented at either Dunefest or Sandfest which is held on the Oregon Coast.

Thanks in advance -- For your answers ............ And for anyone else running this "Kit" -- Don't hesitate to offer your comments - Suggestions - Observations !!

Dave

 

Trey .........

In considering your RzR "Kit" -- I've looked at your Web Site and the various links and have a few questions and a couple of observations ...........

In one of the videos -- The dash of the RzR is shown and below the instrument cluster are two digital gauges. They seem to read more/less the same values -- Am I to assume these were A/F ratio digital gauges - One for each cylinder ??

If so -- I may like one of these as opposed to the round A/F gauge.

Just thinking out loud here ...........

On the fuel controller - I'm assuming this is user set according to the A/F ratio throughout the RPM range of the engine. Anything on the horizion by a 3rd party manfacturer where this is automatically adjusted ?? Personally - I'm not really interested in having to continually monitor and keep adjusting.

Air intake -- Your kit places it between the seats about shoulder height as I see it in one picture. I'm concerned about the noise and perhaps an alternate location and the use of a different - Much more effective type of air filter.

Exhaust -- Sticks out farther than I'd prefer .. I realize the design limitations of the components used dictate this -- Any other alternative to shorten it up ??

Repacking of the muffler -- Does it need to be ??

Adjustment of boost. I'm assuming the turbo is user adjustable -- How and what are the boost levels -- Low/Hi this turbo is capbable of. I'm sure grade of gas/fuel used determins boost -- What are the values ??

I'm thinking -- Running pump gas and the occasional use of race gas and increasing turbo boost -- And this falls in line with a fully automatic fuel module.

Another idle thought -- A boost knob .. Dash mounted -- Perhaps an option ??

What is the sound (DB) level of the exhaust ?? I run the Oregon Dunes and I have to meet the State mandate minimum noise level.

With the plumbing of the intercooler - Can I still have my lock n ride storage box in the bed ?? Important to me as I carry essential tools/parts in it.

Depending on where you are at -- Do you have a test mule RzR with the kit on it ??

Do you attend any of the trade shows -- I've not seen your company represented at either Dunefest or Sandfest which is held on the Oregon Coast.

Thanks in advance -- For your answers ............ And for anyone else running this "Kit" -- Don't hesitate to offer your comments - Suggestions - Observations !!

Dave

Ok Dave I will try to answer some of the questions I know for you, I helped design the kit so any answers I post are legit.

Ok the guages you see in the video are a part of our up and downstream A/F race pack system. You could buy that system if you want but I don't think you would like to as it costs around 7K. Bottom line, no its not a production A/F gauge and is not available, sorry.

The fuel controller is adjustable just like the many other kits and is essentially the same box with our programming. Honestly it is the only affordable option for the RZR application, there are other options we looked into but costs increase greatly with little to no functionality increases. I'm not sure what you mean with automatically adjusted, the RZR is an open loop and has no ability to adjust on the fly. Without an O2 feedback loop and an entirely new control system its just not possible. What you're asking for in my eyes is basically a production car ECU system that is just not applicable on off-road equipment until the factory decides to support it. Let me say you can do nearly anything for a price, but the price would shock you.

The air intake we are currently hoping to work on with a local customer we met today. He is using a filter system "like" the DFR and we hope to incorporate the plumbing as an Aerocharger kit option. We have not had any filtration issues with our Dry AEM filter even in the sand. We are hoping to work with this guy also on a custom install so that his lock-n-ride will work with the tubing. We understand the tubing will not work for everyone, but it is for optimum intercooler performance. That said we will hopefully have something for you and those running the lock-n-ride soon.

The exhaust in all the pictures you see on the site are earlier versions The current version is a Gibson muffler with turn-down and does not stick out very far at all.

Gibson mufflers do not have to be repacked as far as I am aware, someone correct me if I'm wrong. It is also pretty quite but I don't have a figure for you. A turbo dampens the sound some then a muffler after that so if you have heard a Gibson exhaust I am sure its very similar.

The boost can be turned up but we don't recommend it. That's how the whole process starts then before you know it were getting a turbo back because someone got too happy with boost. The motor is going to need some race fuel above 8psi in my opinion. I can't give you a fine yes or no for any given boost and octane requirements. It just isn't that simple but as I said its not recommended above 8 psi without race fuel. We built this kit to be a bolt on way to double your hp, that means no shims.

The turbo is going to at least double your power, if that's not enough then in my opinion you should take the proper precautionary measures and understand what you are doing. By all means it is your kit once you buy it and if you want to understand the boost control we will explain it and try to help with the process. The warranty is a "common sense" warranty, if we manufacture it incorrectly we will fix it period. This is regardless of how long you have had it. But if you abuse the kit by turning it up beyond the specified limitations we will be able to tell.

We do have our own test mule and it is the one you see pictured on the side. We are in Kansas City and the kit is currently installed. We have been testing it for year in a variety of environments. It has been in the sand and it has been all the way up to 13000ft in Colorado with no engine problems of any kind

We do attend trade shows but have not attended any specific events focused on the RZR yet due to extensive testing. However, our RZR turbo system has been represented at several drag race events in places such as Dumont by K&T Performance. We do hope to attend one of the events in Oregon this summer and maybe some other events with a tour of the western U.S. We are currently drafting our travel and marketing plans for 2009, so stay tuned.

That being said please give us a call we would love to talk to you or anyone about it.

Talking is easier than typing - 913-541-0200.

 

Great thread guys, I've already learned alot!

 

Mr. Onick ......

Thank You for taking the time to respond to my post !!

Thanks for helping to clarify the Fuel Controller. This is not my field of expertise -- So lets try this .......

With this kit -- Does it come pre programmed ?? If so -- Then .. Is there much adjustment required ?? If I could read your installation manual/Maintance manual this may be explained/addressed.

If it does not come pre programmed -- Then what is required of the user to program ??

To clarify if I understand correctly -- The Turbo comes set to provide 8 PSI of boost - And this is factory set. If this is a true statement -- I can then expect to have a RWHP in the vicinity of 82 HP ??

I can appreciate your final comment -- That being to call. The reason I haven't yet is -- I'm only one person with questions .. I prefer to go this route so all who view this thread -- We can all learn the basics and call if necessary -- Thus not taking up so much of your time. Another reason to try and answer all potential questions with your Web Site.

I understand your comments on someone turning up the boost and what may happen/involve.

I'm retired and have built Buggies for 40 years. In my younger days I raced motorcycles all over the country.

Now -- I'm not interested in being the fastest one to the Finish Line ............ Butt -- When I put the Hammer Down .. I want it to stand up and Bark !!

Personally - I'm evaluating the different Turbo systems currently on the market for the RzR along with the one option of a motor swap.

I leave the Land of SunShine April 1st to return to my Summer home on the Oregon Coast - Also to where my shop is. At that time I'll make my decision and order.

Again -- Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and educating us all !! If we don't have a complete picture we simply can't make an intelligent decision !!

Hopefully - On the intake question and the now current exhaust -- Pictures can be taken and your web site updated with this information.

Thanks Again ......

Dave

 

Mr. Onick ......
I can appreciate your final comment -- That being to call. The reason I haven't yet is -- I'm only one person with questions .. I prefer to go this route so all who view this thread -- We can all learn the basics and call if necessary -- Thus not taking up so much of your time.
Thanks Again ......
Dave

Thanks for posting your well thought out questions Dave.
And thanks to Mr. Onick for providing the answers here.
I have learned a lot from reading both.

 

:devil3: hell yea, glad to get Trey and the other guys with areocharger on here! :devil3:

 

Thanks Cliff .......

I think we all learned a little more about their system.

This is the type of thread that I like to see on the Forum - Instead of just little snippits of information being given.

Now -- I'd like to hear from someone who has installed this system ... And hear their evaluation !!

Dave

 

You guys are located in Colorado right? If you do plan on doing a tour this summer, please make sure to include St. Anthony. I'm listing my raptor 700, on KSL (salt lake want ads), this week. Though I doubt it's going to sell for a couple more months. When it does it'll be time for the turbo for the RZR.

If you guys do plan on coming up here this spring or summer, please post it here and let us know about it. I know a lot of guys around here with rzrs that wold love to come out and experience a turbo'd rzr.

Jason

 

Again -- Thanks for answering everyone's questions !! In reading other recent threads -- This is truly refreshing !!

Land of SunShine = Lake Havasu City, Arizona -- Where the temp will again .. Be in the low 70's !!

Three area's of concern that I have .........

I wish to retain the use of my Lock-N-Ride box.

The use of a Donaldson/DFR type of air filter system - And re-locate the air intake to hopefully the right side of the Lock-N-Ride box just behind the passenger seat - Thus minimizing the intake noise.

The placement of the Air-To-Air Intercooler.

You're aware of the first two and I'm hopefull you will have a solution in the near future and will post back with that solution and update your web site with updated pictures - And add descriptions to said pictures.

On the topic of your pictures you've posted on your web site -- There are no descriptions -- And I believe most have missed your new exhaust you now have.

On your website - The last series of pictures depict your 1st generation exhaust. This is what I keyed in on and thus my earlier comment regarding the rather long muffler.

The 1st segment of pictures - Show your 2nd generation muffler - As you had described it earlier in this thread -- It is easy now to identify. Also elsewhere on your site there are several pictures with the bed on and this 2nd generation muffler system - For those who may want to go see.

I do have a concern for the placement of the intercooler - That being so high. This is in direct line of sight and blocks the view to the rear - When using the factory rear view mirror. This is somewhat concerning to me as mine will be street legal and used on the streets here in Arizona. To date - The best placement of the intercooler has been from Dahlbeck racing. Goes from the base of the bed to the 1st horizonal support bar - No rear view restriction. Their turbo system was developed in Sweeden where it is legal to ride on the streets.

Along the topic of the intercooler - I noticed on your latest pictures depicting your gen2 exhaust something interesting. You must have done a test of your system - With no intercooler .. As the pic's show piping in place from the turbo to the throttle body.

What was your evaluation of this test ??

Being I run the Sand along the Oregon Coast -- Where the air is cool .. Perhaps a turbo system without an intercooler is feasable for my application - And this would solve the Lock-N-Ride and rear view issues. Just thinking out loud here ..........

If you do plan a Road Trip this Summer .......... Post with your dates/places so all interested can make plans to come and view !!

I do have another thought on the intercooler ........... Have you looked at other companies recently and seen their setups ??

I can invision reworking your's and eliminating 2 - 90 degree bends and turning the intercooler 90 degrees.

One such system that comes to mind is the turbo system offered for the 1100 cc Sand Viper Joyner. All polished and a simple piping system ........... Again -- Just thinking out loud here and perhaps on this thought -- A call would be better to discuss.

Again -- Thanks for your interest in discussing your product with all of us !!

Dave

 

Lake Havasu City, excellent. My friends and I usually stay there with a friend when going to glamis.

Ok I will try to answer your questions/thoughts.

We have/had looked at all other intercooler systems when designing ours. You must understand we decided on a setup with the turbo system performance in mind. The Dahlbeck intercooler honestly is a poor design. While it may suit the rear view scenario you are describing it is the worst design for performance I have seen.

I will elaborate, their intercooler is huge but about 70-80% of it is covered from airflow. Without airflow the intercooler decreases in efficiency greatly. An intercooler under the bed with fans would work better. They also have small tanks with about 3ft long plates which leads to large pressure drops also decreasing efficiency.

If you wish refer to Corky Bell's Maximum Boost for details on effective intercooler designs. Our intercooler is one of the reasons our system is so efficient. We knew the intercooler layout would not satisfy everyone but would work the best and that was the number 1 priority.

The intercooler looks really strange on its side without the 90 degree elbows as well. We tried it and it just did not look appealing at all.

We are still hoping to have an alternate air and locnride solution but it is going to require cooperation from someone and we have not heard back from that person yet to my knowledge.

I will say I don't think putting it behind the passenger seat is going to happen, the driver seat is where it will need to be because of plumbing.

We did initially run our system without an intercooler without problems but I don't think I could suggest it without race fuel. I understand the weather may be cool in Oregon but the sand places incredible load on an engine and I would be scared to run in the sand without an intercooler or race fuel. It will no doubt be down on hp some without one as well.

You really should call and talk to Brad about your thoughts on the intercooler. He is the boss and may be willing to think out loud with you on possibilities.

Trey is reading the posts and no doubt will note any thoughts on the website and tour.

 

Great Response !!

About buttons it up for me -- Just passin time here .. In the Valley Of The Sun !!

Hopefully you folks can schedule a West Coast Trip - in the near future ......... As I would like to see this system in person.

Great talkin to Ya !!

I'll be "In Touch" .. .. .. :hihi:

Dave

Luv your "Little Ditty" ...........

It's better to be Blown -- Than Stroked .. .. .. :rofl3: