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800 rzr hard starting

13K views 33 replies 8 participants last post by  Clothier  
#1 ·
I have a 2013 800 rzr is hard to start and won't take any accelerator till you let it idle and warm up. Then after that it has warmed up it still don't take the gas right. Any thoughts or recommendations.
 
#3 ·
Pete those 2013's have a sensor on the gas peddle, wonder if that could be causing problems? Also have you checked fuel pressure? And lastly maybe throttle position sensor bad or out of adjustment?
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
#8 ·
Bypassing the accelerator switch didn't help. It will fire up after a couple of turns and idle great but if you touch the accelerator before it gets warm up it will die then it is hard to start. Seems if you wait about 15 to 20 seconds then it will start or at least hit a lick or two as you are cranking it. After it warms up it still don't take the gas well some hesitation. Have not checked the fuel pressure yet. I guess that is my next step. Any suggestion or help would be appreciated.
 
#10 ·
Error code 520194-3 means that the throttle release signal component is the area of suspect and the voltage is too high.
I would assume that has to do with the sensor on the gas peddle. But not 100% on that.
 
#12 ·
Should be able to unhook the battery for a few minutes and clear it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
OK this thing will fire after about 1 turn (almost instantly) but will immediately die then it won't fire anymore until it sits for a while. It is getting fire to the plugs but it seems weak to me. The fire is kind of yellow-orange, not blue, like I think it should be. Pulled the plugs and they looked a little wet. Traded out to a good known fuel pump and ignition switch and I checked the fuel pressure and it was 44lbs when I first turned it on then when it cycled off as normal it immediately dropped to 32 PSI. Is this normal? Don't show any codes right as of now.
 
#14 ·
We finally figured it out. (This is a very condensed version. Lots of head scratching thinking almost cussing growling bitching more head scratching, changing out parts from a known good source before I got to this point) First was the throttle switch. Done the bypass and it got to where it would fire as quick as you hit the starter but would die. Then I checked the crankshaft position sensor with a voltage meter and it checked out good . But I noticed the plug was ready nasty so I cleaned and greased it . But still didn't start but it changed to hit every once and a while as you were cranking it so I determined the plugs were fouled from all the cranking. Put new plugs in and it starts and runs fine. Hope this help somebody else to figure out their problems. BIG THANKS again for all the help from all of you.
 
#15 ·
Glad you got it running Pete! Looks like 1 or 2 things messed up another to the point of it not running! That really makes it a bitch to diagnose the issue.
 
#16 ·
Guys I spoke to soon after letting it sit over night went out to start it to go for a ride and it is still doing the same thing. (WITH THE ENGINE COLD)When you hit the starter it fires instantly but will only run for a second then dies, then when you try to start it again it won't start but sometimes if you cycle the ,key off and back on it will hit a lick and some time it won't. (WITH THE ENGINE WARMED UP) It starts fine but has some hesitation. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
#18 ·
I answered this post a couple of days ago but some reason it didn't post, anyway I checked the fuel pressure. It was about 44 - 45 psi and to be sure that wasn't the problem I tried one off another RZR that runs fine and it didn't help. It will start in the first couple of turns but dies as quick as it starts. If it does keep running you can't touch the pedal or it will die and won't start back until you let it set for a while but once it warms up it starts real easy with no problem. Hope someone can help me out. It certainly would be greatly appreciated.
 
#19 ·
Tight valve clearances make for real hard cold starts.

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#20 ·
This is an 800, it has hydraulic lifters. Thanks though.

Could this problem be one of the sensors? Maybe the t-map sensor or the throttle position sensor or one of the others? I'm stumped don't know what to do next.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Can you check spark while running? Use one of those testers or do what I do and use a screw driver very carefully. Need to figure out if it's weak spark or fuel. I guess since you put another pump in we can assume it's not fuel???

It very well could be one of those sensors. The TPS can be checked with an ohm meter. Look for a smooth reading up or down while turning. This won't fix weak spark though.
If you take it off the machine make sure to mark exactly where it was. They are adjustable.
As for TMap, I'll look it up.
Are you sure the gas pedal switch is good now? I need to read up on that thing too, my 2014 has some sort of magnetic one on the pedal, is yours like that?

If I had to guess I would say crank sensor, seems like you read of those failing all the time. Those can be checked with an ohm meter but that doesn't mean crap if it only fails while running, ect...But if it's off but runs, but runs bad then yes. I'll look that up too.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Crank sensor: 500 to 600 ohms
Coolant temp sensor: at 78 deg about 2500 ohms, at 212 deg about 12k ohms
fuel pressure 2011 thru 2013 models 45psi
just in case I would disconnect you throttle release resistor thing to test, book says it tells the ECM when your foot is off the gas. Maybe it thinks you aren't pushing the throttle.....
 
#25 ·
Checked the crankshaft position sensor it checks out ok (according to ohm meter). Bypassed the accelerator switch with a resistor that Geoff recommended. That should be good. May take the t-map sensor off the running 800 and see if that helps. And check the tps.
 
#26 ·
Guys is it possible my starting problem could be that the oil pressure relief dowel is stuck? Over pressurizing the lifters and holding the valves open?

I a 2013 800 rzr is hard to start and won't take any accelerator till you let it idle and warm up. Then after that it has warmed up it still don't take the gas right. Any thoughts or recommendations.
 
#27 ·
It's possible, I think I remember posting in another thread a long time ago about that being a problem. So I would certainly check it.
 
#28 ·
Check your relief valve with a small magnet. Should be able to lift it out with a magnet. If it don’t move freely it is stuck. I got one out by removing front cover and oil pump and pushing it up with an Allen wrench. Replaced with two 8mm ball bearings. Mine was ticking bad when it was stuck.


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#29 ·
Hey Pete, I finally had a chance to find the thread I was talking about with the stuck prv dowel. At least thats what we were led to think it was. The guy never said if it was for sure the prv.
 
#30 ·
Hey Pete, I finally had a chance to find the thread I was talking about with the stuck prv dowel. At least thats what we were led to think it was. The guy never said if it was for sure the prv.
Yep people want help but don't realize it helps us all to know the final outcome of these things.
 
#32 ·
Glad you got it solved Pete! So the prv was sticking closed? Building too much oil pressure?
 
#33 ·
Yes the gauge registered to 100 psi. It would pass that an peg the needle back to zero and stay there just at idle or even while I was just cranking it trying to start it. Got the dowel out put it in a drill and used sandpaper to cut it down about a thousandths of an inch. Now it started at 23 degrees this morning the first time I tried it. Just like it should. Put some lacquer thinner in the prv hole let it sit a while to soak the dowel. Took the prv spring out and screwed the prv plug back in and got it started. It ran about five minutes with the pressure pegged then I seen the needle fall. So I knew it had broken loose. Took the cap back off hit the starter and the dowel popped out in the floor. ????
 
#34 ·
Well at least now we know that a stuck dowel can in deed cause hard starting for certain. Glad you got it working as it should. And thanks for the follow up!
 
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