I’m not a crazy rider but went with a tune to get the fan on earlier and raise the restrictive rpm limits in low range. I got the AA tune and though stage one did what I wanted, stage two is where I normally keep it, it’s just more fun.

 

You should at the very least get a tune made for freer flowing exhaust. At Bikeman we have an option +5hp for stock and slip on exhaust, +10hp for slip on and full exhaust and +20hp for full exhaust. all of our tunes are well developed to be extremely safe and yet get you great results. Feel free to call 715-483-3003 or check out our website www.bikemanperformance.com

 

No you don’t “need” a tune. If you do want one, you can always flash it back to stock tune when you take it in. I rode around for a few weeks with the Gibson dual slip on and didn’t have any issues. I bought the exhaust for the tune though. It’s definitely more fun with the tune. I have the AA stage 2 and stage 3. I do ride fast, but for no particular reason, so I keep it on stage 3. Stock to stage 2 is a huge difference. Stage 2 to stage 3 isn’t quite as noticeable

 

I have run tunes from various companies on different machines, the key is just getting one from someone reputable. You have two different routes to choose as well; you can get a device that most call a "piggyback" tuner, or you can get a "real" tuner that flashes the ECU/ECM.

A piggyback tuner typically modifies the injector pulsewidth (duty cycle) based on predetermined settings throughout throttle position.This is crude, but simple and effective for its intended purpose. A tuner that flashes a new program in the ECU will actually change injector duty cycle at various points in the fuel map of the ECU, and also has the capability to modify ignition timing, rev limiters, etc. This results in a more accurate and efficient running engine than a piggyback controller. These units are offered by several companies, but two I can personally recommend are EVO (Evolution Powersports) and Aftermarket Assassins.

I currently run the Powervision tuner from AA, and am very happy with it. Trinity also offers the Powervision tuner, and since you are getting their exhaust anyway, it certainly makes sense to get the tuner from them already programmed. However, a slip-on exhaust tune from almost any tuner will be just fine, so don't limit yourself to just Trinity. If you plan to add future modifcations, I would get a tuner from EVO or AA, as they offer a large selection of bolt on performance mods and the tunes to go with them.

No you don’t “need” a tune. If you do want one, you can always flash it back to stock tune when you take it in. I rode around for a few weeks with the Gibson dual slip on and didn’t have any issues. I bought the exhaust for the tune though. It’s definitely more fun with the tune. I have the AA stage 2 and stage 3. I do ride fast, but for no particular reason, so I keep it on stage 3. Stock to stage 2 is a huge difference. Stage 2 to stage 3 isn’t quite as noticeable

Respectfully, I disagree. If he removes the factory muffler, he is also removing the stock catalytic converter, which will absolutely result in the machine running leaner. With a forced induction engine, this is dangerous and can result in detonation which can and will damage pistons. The engine has a knock sensor to retard timing, but it is not error proof, and engine damage can still occur.

 

Thanks all, for the very helpful (and fast) responses and info - this is great, I can now decide which tuner/tune to go with and get the best out of the exhaust and the rig overall. Much appreciated!

 

OP, a very different opinion:

An aftermarket exhaust usually does not have a significant AFR affect on a turbo. Many here have done it w/no problems. A search might show this.

A N/A engine can be somewhat sensitive to leaning out from freer flowing exhaust, but this is negligibly affected in a turbo. The turbo itself presents enough restriction to prevent this scavenging driven leaning, and the ECU tables will deliver more fuel as it delivers more air.

Which is why a tune isn't required by many exhaust mfg's when dealing with a turbo exhaust.

As to which, I own quite a few of the AA and Bikeman. I won't run the AA stage 3 anymore, am today still running their #2, but I'm hopeful I like the BKM tunes better. I'm going to load their #3 next time and see how I like it relative to the AA #2.

An O2 sensor is only used at warm up and idle (generally). The ECU is in "open loop" most other times and is straight up ignoring the o2 sensor.

All of this said you've purchased a trinity, they've told you a tune is required, and if so you really don't have much choice.

 

Got

OP, a very different opinion:

A exhaust usually does not have a significant AFR affect on a turbo. Many here have done it w/no problems. A search might show this.

A N/A engine can be somewhat sensitive to leaning out from freer flowing exhaust, but this is negligibly affected in a turbo. The turbo itself presents enough restriction to prevent this scavenging driven leaning, and the ECU tables will deliver more fuel as it delivers more air.

Which is why a tune isn't required by many exhaust mfg's when dealing with a turbo exhaust.

As to which, I own quite a few of the AA and Bikeman. I won't run the AA stage 3 anymore, am today still running their #2, but I'm hopeful I like the BKM tunes better. I'm going to load their #2 next time and see how Ilike it relative to the AA #2.

An O2 sensor is only used at warm up and idle (generally). The ECU is in "open loop" most other times and is straight up ignoring the o2 sensor.

All of this said you've purchased a trinity, they've told you a tune is required, and if so you really don't have much choice.

Got it, and thanks for the other perspective - I've done a bunch of new/newer car exhausts - even with twin turbos, never tuned ever unless doing engine mods of course. I'm guessing their "disclaimer" as a recommendation is part CYA. Appreciate it!