Nflow has engine rebuild kits, and they have rebuilt engines if you want to just swap it out.
They are from indiana

if your out west check with rev6. They are in Utah I believe.

 

Do you know if there are common issues with the transmissions? I just went to change the fluid and there were chunks of metal shavings on the drain plug magnet I’m starting to feel like I got a lemon

 

How big are the chunks? Small metal particles seem to be normal. If you have parts coming out that you can tell what they are you have an issue. I agree with the previous poster. My buddy bought a Rev6 engine a few years ago and it’s been good. If you have the mechanical aptitude to rebuild the engine, rebuilding the trans will be easy. Me personally I would buy a whole engine and replace it. Send yours back as a core. While you have the engine out split the case on the trans and inspect it. Then I would replace anything that’s an issue and upgrade the bearings to Sandcraft, upgrade the output shaft, and do the double reverse chain. That would make it very reliable. I had some gear teeth in my trans last year. I pulled it and replaced the bad gear and upgraded bearings. If you have the parts it’s a day job.

 

i have a pic of the drain plugs i'll attach they look like decent size pieces on the trans anyway.. There was fluid in the trans but only about a quart worth the front command drive was bone dry and had some gunk on the drain plug as well not looking too hot, i'm thinking i may have to do the engine and trans rebuild myself to help with the amount of losses i'm having here.
The 2 pics with the darker drain plug is what came out of the transmission the other 2 with the light gray gunk is from the front diff command drive unit.

 

If the front was dry that could be an issue. The front looks about normal to me. Mine has looked like that. The front doesn't take much fluid. As for the trans that seems a little excessive. Mine had teeth come out and didnt have that much slag on it. I replaced the pinion shaft, all bearings, and seals and I was in it around $600.00. Of course the pinion shaft was the single most expensive gear in there. If you need OEM, Sandcraft, or super ATV parts contact Hardline UTV on the forum. He had the best deals for forum members on the parts I needed.

 

@Pjxmotorsports how many mile are on the machine? I don't think that trans plug looks too terrible from what I have seen. I just changed a 2020 Pro XP transmission's fluid with around 1300 miles on it yesterday and the fluid wasn't much better than that. I don't think the trans fluid had been changed for at least 1000 miles.

What did you have to do to get the engine running? Pull the clutch cover and make sure the noise isn't coming from the clutch.

 

i really just drained the oil took the plugs out pulled the fuse for the fuel pump put about 1/4 cap full of oil down each cylinder and primed the engine for a bit to get the oil recirculated it sounded fine when priming the engine but when i put the plugs back in and fired it up it had a knock i only let it run for about 20-30 seconds then shut it off though didnt want to chance a crank bearing completely failing and sending a hole through the block i have a video of it running but im not sure if itll let me add it here. it has 1,930 miles on it they ran the engine low on oil there was barely half a quart of oil in it and it smelled like burned up crap dont think they ever changed it. as for the trans the drain plug with the darker fluid and larger chunks is what came out of the transmission it was low on fluid as well but had probably a little more than a quart of fluid in it. the front command drive was bone dry the drain plug was even loose and it had the light gray small sandy looking gunk on the drain magnet. i ran a few quarts of used 0w20 through it to try to flush the command drive I plan on flushing both the diff and trans with diesel this weekend when i get a chance to try and clean it out from any shavings as best i can

 

If the front diff ends up being shot, there are a few options, Super ATV has a complete diff or Sandcraft has rebuild kits or a rebuild service where you can send it in for rebuild. I can hook you up on Poarlis OEM parts as well. Just let me know how I can help.

 

Can I get a price for OEM #7043986-385

 

Decided to pull the transmission and engine so I Pulled the clutch’s off there was 1 bolt completely missing for the transmission on the passenger side and 1 bolt that was half the way unthreaded on the drivers side I could not for the life of me get the axle shafts out so I’m trying to remove the trans with the shafts still in but the driveshaft won’t go forward enough for me to slip it off I’ve got everything else loose and off for the most part I’m wondering if I can get the engine out from the side as well after I pull the transmission out. Looks to me like they put an aftermarket carrier bearing in on the machine and the access bolts are on the underside so the entire front underbelly needs to be removed to access it what a shame.. this thing is turning out to be more of a project than I bargained for

 

Those drain plugs are normal.

To aid in removing your drive shaft, remove the U-shaped bracket held to the frame with 2 T40 torx screws. You can see this bracket in the rear driver side wheel well. I tried to pull up the schematic for it to point it out but can't seem to find it. Just follow your driveshaft out of the trans and you'll see the bracket.

Removing this gives you extra wiggle room. Be sure to pop off the shaft from your front diff too if you haven't already, and she'll pop right off the trans.

Let me know if you need a service manual for your rig. I can send you the PDF.

 

I recently changed a driveshaft for a friend of mine and ended up taking the 4 front diff bolts out to move it forwards about 1/4 inch. This let the driveshaft pop right off

 

Sounds like it has a sandcraft carrier bearing, that’s not a shame that’s a good thing. Drop the skid and take the bolts out of it. Rear prop shaft isn’t going to move off the trans output shaft without doing that.