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2013 RZR 800 Code 637 - Camshaft Phase Sensor Circuit Fault

22K views 25 replies 6 participants last post by  Darth RZR  
#1 · (Edited)
A bit of back story... I recently rebuilt the top end of my 800 after falling for the golf tee in the water pump witness hole bush "fix" which caused a number of issues. Coolant in oil, prv sticking, loss of oil pressure, cam and lifters scrubbed. I replaced the pistons, pins and rings and installed a "high lift" cam with new lifters. Engine fired right up after installation so I put the valve cover and header on, filled the coolant and ran it for approx 30 minutes on and off over the next month or so. It started fine and ran fine after getting the rings seated. It took a lot to get the air out ot the cooling system but I think I finally got it burped and flowing. I was about to start putting the back of the belt case back on and decided to run it up to fan temp one last time. It got to 204 with no fan start, threw the engine light and then popped and stalled. I let it cool and tried to fire it up again. No go. It cranks normally and then cranks hard like a valve isn't opening or its hydraulicing. Like the battery cable jumps. After a few tests the only thing I can determine is my engine theory isn't as good as I thought. It cranks fine with no plugs and it cranks fine with no spark. The rear hole spits fuel and occasionally flame. All the valves are moving up and down and are free. There is no way to put the plug wires on backwards because of the tabs on the coil and length of the wires. It also cranks fine if I pull the plugs, crank it over to clear the cylinders, reinstall the plugs and wires and crank it with the fuel pump disconnected. I can see some fuel in the dish of the rear piston at BDC through the spark plug hole but the plug itself is dry. Slobbering injectors?!? I'm buffaloed. Please help!
 
#17 ·
Contact #33 in ECU connector.

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#21 · (Edited)
View attachment 678505
Well this is interesting. The woodruff key for the flywheel sheared and it spun on the crank. I still had to use a puller to get the flywheel off but it definitely spun. Technically the cam and crank were still in phase but the ecu was picking the wrong crank position off the flywheel
Yep that would cause an issue! In your 1st post the way I read it, it sounds lile you had it running without the primary clutch on it? I wonder if that had anything to due with it shearing the flywheel key?
 
#24 ·
FTR it is a 505 key but the keyway in the taper hub is cut on the axis of the shaft, not parallel to the taper so depth isn't critical. Reading on here I learned that the taper engagement handles the torque, not the key (it's only for timing purposes). I failed to tighten the flywheel retaining nut sufficiently the first time and the starter torque / firing harmonics sheared the key. I had to lap the tapers with grinding paste to clean them up again and torqued the shit out of the nut. Reinstalling the engine today
 
#25 ·
what were ur symptoms i feel like this is my issue with my 800 i rebuilt it a couple months ago and it was running real good first couple rides then it just started backfiring giving me code 637 it would shut off when would gas full throttle it would happen at higher rpm wouldn’t go pass 5000 rpm felt like it had 2 step popping noises lol before it would shut down i already put new fuel pump spark plugs and camshaft sensor tbap throttle body checked harness i also swicthed ecu still ran like crap so im pretty sure my key sheared too just to lazy to remove the engine but gonna get 2 work i’ll keep updating on my issue