Im rebuilding a motor out of a 2008 rzr 800 for a friend. She wants to go the CHEAPEST route to get it fixed but also have it all back to OEM specs unless its cheaper to go otherwise. one crank bearing went out and has about 1/2 inch play between the rod and crank, one piston has chunks out of it, head is gouged a little from the piston chunks, bent intake valve, cylinders are smooth to the TOUCH. So new crank, rods, pistons, valves, all the seals and gaskets for sure. what are the specs to know if it would need bored or just honed, like I said it had no gouges to the touch. Should I put in new valve springs, push rods, rockers? Any input you have is appreciated such as more suggestions, parts lists, cheapest places or useful threads. I can get it all apart and back together but knowing what is NEEDED is questionable. If it was mine personally EVERYHING would be new or upgraded but if I don't have to go that route with this machine then I need to avoid it.
KSMITTY
2008 rzr 800 motor rebuild questions
Im rebuilding a motor out of a 2008 rzr 800 for a friend. She wants to go the CHEAPEST route to get it fixed but also have it all back to OEM specs unless its cheaper to go otherwise. one crank bearing went out and has about 1/2 inch play between the rod and crank, one piston has chunks out of it, head is gouged a little from the piston chunks, bent intake valve, cylinders are smooth to the TOUCH. So new crank, rods, pistons, valves, all the seals and gaskets for sure. what are the specs to know if it would need bored or just honed, like I said it had no gouges to the touch. Should I put in new valve springs, push rods, rockers? Any input you have is appreciated such as more suggestions, parts lists, cheapest places or useful threads. I can get it all apart and back together but knowing what is NEEDED is questionable. If it was mine personally EVERYHING would be new or upgraded but if I don't have to go that route with this machine then I need to avoid it.
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I have these kits in stock ready to ship, this takes the guessing and time wasted waiting for your dealer to order the parts...These are all NEW OEM Polaris Parts unless noted for your RZR, RZR S and RZR 4 "800" Engines...
1) Head Gasket (1) $30.00
2) Base Gasket (1) $20.00
3) Mag / Access Gasket (1) $18.00
4) Oil / Water Pump (1) $115.00
5) Oil Pickup Tube (1) $22.00
6) Oil Shaft Seal (1) $28.00
7) Seal (1) $21.00
8) Seal (1) $13.00
9) Water Pump Seal (1) $40.00
10) Main Bearings (2) $40.00
11) Counter Balancer Bearings (4) $75.00
12) Pistons, Rings Wrist Pins and Cir-Clips (2 sets) $199.00
13) Oil (2 qts) $20.00
14) Oil Filter (1) $10.00
15) Dowel Pin (1) $5.00
16) Spring (1) $5.00
17) Spark Plugs (2) $12.00
18) Lifters (4) $40.00
19) Push Rods (4) $88.00
20) Cylinder (1) $300.00
21) Crank (1) Cost Depends on OEM or Aftermarket
22) Valve Job (Cost Depends on Parts required)
23) UTVINC Billet Breather (1) $40.00
24) Antifreeze (1 Gallon) $12.00
Pick and choose the parts you need!!!
Total Of Parts PLUS Shipping to the lower 48 States...
You'll have to clean that head up and then see if it's good enough.
It could have warped but chances are it's good.
Black Bart has series of threads about rebuilding and blue printing the engine. Get it; print it out and read it several times.
The Service Manual is in my signature... get it... print it out, make bookmarks for the pages... read it; then read it again...
Read Black Bart's threads; then pick up the manual and read it again...
Okay; now that you have that done...
Tim can provide you with the parts you need...
or you can check out FixMyToys.com Chris over there has some good prices.
I got my crank from Hot Rod Cranks..and I got it off eBay... that was the best price I could find on one...
DO NOT FORGET TO GET A NEW WOODRUFF KEY.
Put the flywheel back on using an impact wrench... If you try to hold it yourself you will take a chance of woodruff key not holding up... Ask me how I know (x2 !!!!)....
The specs are in the manual for everything you need.
Oh; and I would order a few valve retainers.. those little boogers can be a pain to get in/out without losing one.
Cheap Route?
I'm not sure... there's quite a few things that are going to be questionable.
How many miles/hours on the engine before it failed?
I guess the only way to know what CAN be re-used is to spec everything out once you've got it apart.
If things are out of spec you could try to get used stuff off of here or on eBay.
But USED stuff may not be in spec either. Tough Call.
It could have warped but chances are it's good.
Black Bart has series of threads about rebuilding and blue printing the engine. Get it; print it out and read it several times.
The Service Manual is in my signature... get it... print it out, make bookmarks for the pages... read it; then read it again...
Read Black Bart's threads; then pick up the manual and read it again...
Okay; now that you have that done...
Tim can provide you with the parts you need...
or you can check out FixMyToys.com Chris over there has some good prices.
I got my crank from Hot Rod Cranks..and I got it off eBay... that was the best price I could find on one...
DO NOT FORGET TO GET A NEW WOODRUFF KEY.
Put the flywheel back on using an impact wrench... If you try to hold it yourself you will take a chance of woodruff key not holding up... Ask me how I know (x2 !!!!)....
The specs are in the manual for everything you need.
Oh; and I would order a few valve retainers.. those little boogers can be a pain to get in/out without losing one.
Cheap Route?
I'm not sure... there's quite a few things that are going to be questionable.
How many miles/hours on the engine before it failed?
I guess the only way to know what CAN be re-used is to spec everything out once you've got it apart.
If things are out of spec you could try to get used stuff off of here or on eBay.
But USED stuff may not be in spec either. Tough Call.
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