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16 Turbo cooling fan issues

20K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  capitan828  
#1 ·
I'm having a problem with the cooling fan on my 16 turbo over the weekend. I do have a stage 3 tune which turns the fan on at 176* and the new style upgraded fan.

I noticed the rzr got up to 230* so I pulled over. I checked the fuse and it has one of those re-settable fuses. I replaced it with a normal fuse and still no fan.

Swap the fan relay in the fuse block, no change.

Ended up unplugging the big blue connector at the fan to check for bent pins, plugged it back it and turned the key on and still no fan. I ended up starting it and the fan came on. Weird, but ok. This happened one other time during the weekend but it started working before it got to hot to stop riding it.

Whats the deal here? I'm gonna clean the big blue connector and hit with electrical grease. maybe some dust got in there?

I've also been having a issue with my battery dying when the rzr sits for a extended period of time (2 months). Noticed it AFTER they installed the fan. I'm not saying its NOT related but I'm thinking it is. I posted about the dead battery awhile back and everything said to put a tender on it and call it done. I'm calling BS on that. I used to let my old rzr and my tractor sit all winter, come spring it fires up right away.

Thoughts? suggestions? I'm done with the dealer. Warranty or not...
 
#10 ·
While I agree that the items discussed here are all valid issues and that the upgraded fan probably added additional problems VS fixes, Polaris is not going to do anything about it and IMO a bigger radiator is not a real fix either.

I think there is something else wrong than just a radiator.
While I have not done it yet, I have ordered all the parts to do a remote oil cooler like this thread talks about. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-turbo/410089-d-i-y-external-oil-cooler-turbo-rzr.html
I have also subbed the sandwich plate with the UTVinc. remote oil filter adapter so I could put my filter in a more accessible spot. Hopefully this will make a positive impact on cooling.

Maybe the OP could just install a fan override switch and relay.

YMMV :)
 
#9 ·
I had a similar fan issue one time. I don't have the upgraded fan but I did have another fan in front of the heat exchanger... The factory voltage regulator has a thermal switch in it so that if it gets too hot, it will turn off, to cool down, then come back on. When the regulator is off, the generator has no output. Here is what I THINK happened. The fans ran long enough for the regulator to shut down, then the battery voltage got low enough for the computer to shut off the fan output to the fan relay. I did the same as you checking the fan CB and relay. They were fine but the trigger to the relay from the computer was not on... This was the hottest mine ever got at almost 240F if I remember correctly... So I think there are multiple problems that are kicking us in the balls... The upgraded fan is just a bandaid that causes other battery/ regulator issues... Polaris needed to step up and give us a real fix in the way of a new radiator, I'm my opinion, but instead they kill our value by dropping the price $5k...

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#8 ·
Just my opinion here but I would remove the circuit breaker from the battery side of the 8AWG wires going to the front of the machine to the buss bar. The CB's seem to be very unreliable and IMO you want the wires in "WELD" (no fuse) position if you have a winch hooked up anyways.

Second I would use the ACC. wire to trigger a relay and then provide more current to the accessories VS a 16 awg wire. I also opted to run a 4awg to the front just for good measure. ;)

YMMV
 
#7 ·
Just a heads up. I moved the orange/acc wire from the upgraded fan harness to the 12v red post on the buss bar. If the TERM fuse blows in the fuse block (TERM fuse is for the acc wire on the buss bar) you will lose the fan as well. Polaris did a sorry job at wiring the upgraded fan on the turbos. It is a variable speed PWM capable fan and all they did was add a bunch of possible failure points to the system. I haven't had time to play with the fan wiring but im pretty sure you can wire the fan without that extra relay. 12v constant to the fan and orange/acc wire directly from the original fan connector.
 
#14 ·
Just a heads up. I moved the orange/acc wire from the upgraded fan harness to the 12v red post on the buss bar. If the TERM fuse blows in the fuse block (TERM fuse is for the acc wire on the buss bar) you will lose the fan as well. Polaris did a sorry job at wiring the upgraded fan on the turbos. It is a variable speed PWM capable fan and all they did was add a bunch of possible failure points to the system. I haven't had time to play with the fan wiring but im pretty sure you can wire the fan without that extra relay. 12v constant to the fan and orange/acc wire directly from the original fan connector.


i want to thank this post right here. i was switching things around to run some accessories and accidentially shorted the bussbar posts. quick spark and everything seemed good no no big deal. so I'm stirring around enjoying the heat from heater when I noticed the temp up to like 195 and the evo tune turns the fan on at 185. im like wtf. yep the fan wasnt coming on. i checked all the relays and fuses for the upgraded fan and everything was in order. still no fan. until I read this post I thought the fan had died. never would i have thought to check that TERM fuse. sure enough guess it blew when I shorted the bussbar. replace fuse everything back to normal. thank you very much.
You are very welcome!
 
#5 ·
Yeah, so basically you can't install the new "high flow" fan without this harness. This harness has some mondo 8 gauge wires going to it and also incorporates ANOTHER fan relay. So there's the relay in the fuse block (I swapped it at the time for the EPS relay), and the relay on the harness.



Check for any wires with bare spots. They are usually tiny and are easily overlooked. I would bet your dealer has something to do with your issues. I know mine tore up more than they fixed. I too am done with the dealer. I can fix about anything myself and will do so from here on out. I would take better care of my machine than some kid they pay 12/hr who could care less.


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Yeah man, I can fix anything too. So maybe we know too much for my own good? I double checked their work on the clutch upgrade and there was like 3 bolts completely gone on the clutch cover. Also broke all mounting tabs for the electrical connectors when they did the turbo drain. I'm like come on here....bunch of hacks.


I think I'm going to clean that relay and connector then go from there. Def has me worried since the problem comes and goes.

From my experience with automotive relays they'll either WORK or NOT WORK. But a dusty/dirty connect is another story.
 
#3 ·
The fan issue would concern me too, problems just don't go away, clean the fan ground if you can find it and every other connection in line. If you can't isolate the inconsistent power supply issue I would pick up a 40 amp relay and wire in a new reliable power supply for the fan (worse case scenario) so it doesn't leave you stranded some where. I don't have my manual with me but I believe that there is a relay for the fan in the fuse box maybe yours is going out and needs to be replaced. You can test the relay to see if the ECU is sending the "fan on" signal when you approach the correct turn on temp, if not you have an ECU issue. ( I have not seen that nor heard about that)

The only way I know of to find a parasitic power draw is to get you a DC amp meter and start testing each electrical system for small current draws when everything is keyed off. IF you do that you will find it.
 
#2 ·
Check for any wires with bare spots. They are usually tiny and are easily overlooked. I would bet your dealer has something to do with your issues. I know mine tore up more than they fixed. I too am done with the dealer. I can fix about anything myself and will do so from here on out. I would take better care of my machine than some kid they pay 12/hr who could care less.


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