[FordTruckMan]

Here is my situation.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at here. The shims go behind both sheaves. It looks like what you have is mangled remains from in between the sheave halves?

 

[T.W.]

Indeed that is what I have. Installed the way I was instructed. I knew better, but I thought I was talking to a clutching guru.

 

[FordTruckMan]

That's no bueno. Putting shims in between the two sheaves spaces them apart. You need to put it behind them in order to offset the plane so that matches the primary. Whoever you were talking to that was a clutch expert, you need to unfriend them lol.

 

[T.W.]

Learned my lesson on this one. How do I go about getting the correct shims for this machine? That, once again has no literature on shimming the secondary.

 

[WISledder]

Indeed that is what I have. Installed the way I was instructed. I knew better, but I thought I was talking to a clutching guru.

I really hope youre not referring to me, i never said to shim in between the clutch faces, that would be silly.

Im seriously at a loss and not sure how to respond, shimming is like the easiest thing to do, and you accomplished a tranny install and sdi alignment, a much harder task... Search youtube for "rzr shimming secondary" first video that comes up for me is HW, and hundreds more after that, all the info you need is there.

Also make sure youre not over torquing the secondary. Even 5# too much will push the secondary too far on the spline and misalign the belt.

 

[RZR_Joe]

Recently installed superatv gear reduction

Which @SuperATV OEM part # did you order? There are two 27T reverse shafts listed and only one will work.

 

[T.W.]

I was not referring to you sledder.

I will have to look at my order for the reverse shaft. I have been in contact with superatv and they assure me it is the correct shaft.

 

[T.W.]

Superatv part# HDRC-1-016#TR

 

[RZR_Joe]

That is not a gear reduction, simply a HD reverse chain. I would call SATV tomorrow because you should not need to shim the secondary clutch.

 

[SouthenVTrider]

That is not a gear reduction, simply a HD reverse chain. I would call SATV tomorrow because you should not need to shim the secondary clutch.

I didn’t want to say yes or no without being sure
I didn’t think it was right, but u got the answer from a top source member

 

[T.W.]

Gear reduction part# 3235380 (27T) was installed at the same time as reverse chain.

 

[RZR_Joe]

Gear reduction part# 3235380 (27T) was installed at the same time as reverse chain.

Ok, makes more sense. So you installed a stage 2 & 3 reduction along with the HD chain input shaft. Did you verify the new input shaft length vs the OEM before installation?

 

[T.W.]

Unfortunately, I did not. Sure wish I had now.

 

[T.W.]

So, I believe I'm starting to understand this a little bit better. I have since looked for shims to fit behind the second set of splines with no luck. I have however found shims from Gilomen Innovations that fit between the shaft and face of the secondary.
Am I right in thinking this is essentially doing the same thing as shimming behind the secondary?

 

[FordTruckMan]

So, I believe I'm starting to understand this a little bit better. I have since looked for shims to fit behind the second set of splines with no luck. I have however found shims from Gilomen Innovations that fit between the shaft and face of the secondary.
Am I right in thinking this is essentially doing the same thing as shimming behind the secondary?

Trying to understand what you are saying, but no matter what, the shims need to go behind the set of two sheaves. The whole point is to align the plane between the primary set of sheaves and the secondary set of sheaves. If you put shims in between the two secondary sheaves it voids the whole point. Any shims that go on the face of any set of sheaves for the secondary is definitely not what you want. You need to put the shims behind the back side of the secondary to push it out so the plane of the center of the secondary is equal to the plane of the center of the primary sheave set.

 

[T.W.]

Ok, I contacted Todd at hunterworks, was sold and told to put the shims behind the first set of splines. We know the results.
I've since looked for shims to fit behind the second set of splines, although I think I'm going to end up with the same result.

Gilomen states that these shims are for correcting out of alignment secondaries on boss style clutches on i believe 2016 thru 2023 xp 1000's

 

[T.W.]

I just had a refresher look at the shaft and clutch. What I'm gathering is there is no way to shim behind the secondary.
The only way I see this working is shimming the outer sheave out, opening the clutch a bit. In my mind this let's the belt ride a little deeper in the secondary.

Logical??

 

[FordTruckMan]

This is a head scratcher for me. Shimming the outer sheave out makes the belt ride lower, but that's not what you want.

Todd knows his shit, so I'm surprised he gave you bad information, which leads me to think it's been misinterpreted maybe?

Having never personally shimmed a secondary on your exact machine, maybe I'm completely incorrect here. But, the secondary sheave should seat on the back half having some amount of machined surface that bottoms out onto a machined shoulder on the shaft. The shims go on that machined shoulder, to create a spacer between the shoulder and the sheave.

That's how it works on any other clutch I've seen. But I'm not a clutch expert, just a guy who's worked on a few, successfully, lol.

Side note, I worked with Todd back in the day when I had a Yamaha wolverine first gen sxs. That was a solid 10 years ago. We used to shim in between the Primary sheaves to make the belt ride lower and give us more bottom end due to a lower gear ratio.

 

[RZR_Joe]

Goes behind the secondary

Amazon.com: Polaris RZR Driven Spline Washer, Genuine OEM Part 7556942, Qty 1 : Automotive

 

[T.W.]

Thanks for the link RZR Joe, this is the first time in countless hours of searching I have seen this. I don't think this fits my machine though. Fitment is for turbo models.