Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 18 xp4 turbo dyanmix. in the sand I run 30 inch paddles. dirt I run 32 mongrels on a 14 inch beadlock rim. I have the AA stage 3 clutch kit with high load helix. belt temps will constantly be above 230 in the sand. when I am 55+ in the dirt the belt hits 220 and keeps climbing the longer I stay on it. I have done the Blowhole, which doesn't help at all with belt temps while WOT, only helps when sitting there at idle, letting the belt cool quicker. (in my opinion)
I did the BMP Cyclone primary clutch cover to try and get more CFM
tuned, level 2 with Gibson exhaust
engine is 100% stock


WHAT DO YOU GUYS DO FOR COOLER BELT TEMPS?????

STM clutch? air dam clutch? some special mod I haven't seen or heard of? My clutch needs more fine tuning perhaps?
Its annoying that we spend all this money on a toy that your supposed to run hard but cant cause the rubber band driving the whole thing gets hot and explodes (in a nut shell), and then spend more money on mods that should help the situation but come up short. :crying


Share your wisdom!! Thanks:grin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
I run a epi teal spring 182/260 in my secondary my belt temps stay around 160-230. I run AA big turbo setup with all their goodies. The only downside is that it brings the rpms up so you need to add weight to the clutch arms. AA uses a 160/220. I also have a epi grey spring that’s 168/240 I have not tried that spring yet. I also run a hunterworks belt seems to be holding up good to 260 motor hp.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
10,382 Posts
So I have a 18 xp4 turbo dyanmix. in the sand I run 30 inch paddles. dirt I run 32 mongrels on a 14 inch beadlock rim. I have the AA stage 3 clutch kit with high load helix. belt temps will constantly be above 230 in the sand. when I am 55+ in the dirt the belt hits 220 and keeps climbing the longer I stay on it. I have done the Blowhole, which doesn't help at all with belt temps while WOT, only helps when sitting there at idle, letting the belt cool quicker. (in my opinion)
I did the BMP Cyclone primary clutch cover to try and get more CFM
tuned, level 2 with Gibson exhaust
engine is 100% stock


WHAT DO YOU GUYS DO FOR COOLER BELT TEMPS?????

STM clutch? air dam clutch? some special mod I haven't seen or heard of? My clutch needs more fine tuning perhaps?
Its annoying that we spend all this money on a toy that your supposed to run hard but cant cause the rubber band driving the whole thing gets hot and explodes (in a nut shell), and then spend more money on mods that should help the situation but come up short. :crying


Share your wisdom!! Thanks:grin
Did you remove the black speed limiting spacer in the primary?

Even if you did not, you may have a over travel issue, watch this video and check it

 

·
Standard Vendor
Joined
·
1,530 Posts
Stage tunes are cool, but tend to be harder on belts. Max rpm also is important, and those that push 8k rpm in the turbos tend to have elevated temps and belt failures. Also, as you have found your inline blower works well at idle and low speeds, but at cruise and higher rpm's they are just not that effective. We have found that letting the stock intake system do it's job and adding a stand alone system like our CVT "Blaster" works over a much broader range, controlling temps across the rpm range. If your looking for even more like the desert racers, you can add our "MOFlOW" for additional exhaust flow.
Regards,
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
10,382 Posts
I agree with Mark on the Tunes, believe it or not the rev limiter is set there to protect the belt not the engine. The speeds Polaris turns clutches at 8700 engine speed is the fastest you want to turn a belt.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
So I have the best of both worlds. I have the Blow Hole and the CVT Blaster ll. I have Evo stage 2 tune on my 17 Turbo. I also have a Razorback belt gauge. My Blow Hole runs any time the engine is running and I love it. My Blaster ll is on switch power. The only real time I need to have both on the same time is when I'm at the dunes with the outside temps above 70. I can ride all day as hard as I like at the dunes and very really see belt temps above 200. Plus when I do stop I can cool my belt down extremely fast if needed with both fans on.

Every one has their own opinion on clutch cooling system but I can say what I have done works fantastic. The other plus is I push so much air through the clutch it stays ALOT cleaner then when I had no fans. I also run the Wolfsnout CVT filter.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
The only true cure to hot belt temps is Airdam Clutches. I run their full race setup and I mostly ride glamis dunes. I have ran everything mentioned on this post, seriously all of it. While some made some difference, end result was it was a waste as it wasn’t enough and I still had extremely hot belts. Wish I would have found Airdam sooner. Airdam also has machining mods I’ve never seen others mention that isn’t part of his his kit that helps as well.

In glamis with outside air of 80 degrees in an hour long ride through steep dunes, running AA stage 3 tune, the very hottest it hit was 224 with majority of time it running 200-210. Before that was never possible in the dunes. I could ride for 10 mins and be over 230 instantly and snap there goes the belt. It was ridiculous.

There’s a reason majority of Baja teams running extremely heavy machines, wheels, etc. run Airdam. The last Baja 500 I believe 9 of the top 10 finishers had Airdam. Polaris factory race team also go to him, and I have been told (not verified) Polaris turns to him to help make the factory clutch better for new models. I’m a die hard believer now and will never waste money on products that don’t have real world proven results.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
189 Posts
Is Airdams "full race" setup aftermarket clutches or modified stock ones? What did it cost? I contacted them a few days ago but have not heard back yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Is Airdams "full race" setup aftermarket clutches or modified stock ones? What did it cost? I contacted them a few days ago but have not heard back yet.


I just talked to Adam yesterday for and ordered his setup. The primary is a modified stock one and secondary is a STM clutch modified by Adam. Cost was about $1500.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

·
Standard Vendor
Joined
·
1,530 Posts
Adam does some nice work, and we can't dispute the fact that a well tuned clutch set up is part of the overall picture. Yes, there seems to be limitations on the secondary and many racers at a minimum are upgrading that drive. However to claim that all other mods are a waste is a bit of a stretch. We get a ton of positive feedback on our CVT "BLASTER" from our customers and they are very happy with the results. Our kits are used not only by enthusiast, but are also run by racers in BITD, SCORE, SSSR, Ultra4 and smaller series across the country as well as internationally. There are a lot of factors, and we have seen top racers running the best of the best blow belts.
Regards,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
Well I wasn’t going to name products but I do run the cvt blaster 2 and moflow exhaust, my results were minimal at best. Helped sure, but not as much as I would like and def not to what is advertised as, “up to x degrees cooler.” I think it just needs a stronger fan, but kind of hard I imagine to do with the size limitations so is what it is. I still have both these products on since I spent the money and it does have some positive effect. This is currently ran with my Airdam setup. I will say the quality of these components, from tubing, fans, and filters are great, I just want and need more results. Is what it is though and they’ll stay on.

I also ran a cvt intake inline fan as well and that did hurt temps in mid to higher rpms, and well I don’t need it to be cooler in lower rpms, I need it at the higher rpms, so that was a waste of money and I ripped it out. The extra downside to inline fan, I had to buy a new stock cvt intake since I cut my original tube to put the inline blower In. So that became more extra cost and a bigger waste.

Then clutch kits as sold by many brands and setup to their instructions, simply don’t touch Airdam. I’ve spent the money on these kits, and even though I would get the rpms dialed in for my size tires and weight of car, power, etc.; the belt temps were still always high. All these kits end of day we’re a waste of money compared to the results of my high belt temps as I had to continue to buy new oem belts at $150+ each time. Such a big waste. If I would have done Airdam to begin with it would have saved me money in belts, clutch kits, etc as you add all that stuff up it is over $2k easy. And Airdam cost me $2100 for his setup. $2100 cause I had Adam set me from a brand new primary otherwise would have been less, like the $1500 mentioned before. Airdam gave me real positive results, that I wish someone hammered in my head before I wasted so much money and time on kits and blowers. So now I’m a super fan and I’ll educate others so they don’t make the same mistake and put money in the wrong place.

For the record I haven’t blown a belt since switching to Airdam. Over a year now on same belt. I have a heavily modified XP4 Turbo on 32” tires, run dunes and Baja type deserts, accessories galore, stage 3 tune and components, oversized AA turbo.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
I guess if your not "HEAVILY MODIFIED" the system I have on my machine works fine to keep your belt temp in a good place. My machine has an Evo tune and Captain Choice exhaust. So I have a "little" more power. I now have 2200 miles and not one belt problem.

The OP asked about keeping his belt cooler. Every one will have their OWN opinion on the subject. If you have $1500+ to spend on a clutch Airdams sounds fantastic. If your budget is a lot less and and want a cooler belt temp for most normal machines then my set up of CVT fans work great. If you only want one fan go with the Desertcraft CVT Blaster ll.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
I guess if your not "HEAVILY MODIFIED" the system I have on my machine works fine to keep your belt temp in a good place. My machine has an Evo tune and Captain Choice exhaust. So I have a "little" more power. I now have 2200 miles and not one belt problem.

The OP asked about keeping his belt cooler. Every one will have their OWN opinion on the subject. If you have $1500+ to spend on a clutch Airdams sounds fantastic. If your budget is a lot less and and want a cooler belt temp for most normal machines then my set up of CVT fans work great. If you only want one fan go with the Desertcraft CVT Blaster ll.
I think there are 4 factors that really affect belt temp:

- HP higher than stock, the more the hotter belt temps are to be expected.
- tire size and weight. The bigger and heavier the higher the belt temps.
- car weight over stock, this includes passenger weight. The more weight more strain on belt. This is where the downside of the XP4 is (it uses same cvt setup, tranny, and motor as 2 seater), it’s already heavier, then add cage, accessories and 4 passengers. Belt temps climb quick along with additional wear and tear everywhere.
- finally where you ride. Hot ambient air and soft sand kill belts. I do far better on belt temps in open Baja type desert terrain than I do in the dunes.

So is Airdam for everyone? Of course not. Especially trail guys and anyone keeping their Rzr stock who doesn’t really do dunes. But for those who ride dunes and modify for safety, not just power and comfort, than yes. For those people who are scared of spending $1500. Did you already put larger tires on and a do a $400+ clutch setup? Cvt fans? Now how many belts at $150+? Add it all up. Not too mention time in the dunes, stuck and changing belts (sucks).

I said no more. I didn’t do it cause I’m rich and scoff at $1500 as chump change. Believe me I work hard for my money and would have loved to have used it on something else. I did it because I was tired of wasting money on products that promised a lot and delivered a little or nothing at all. And if I did it from the start I would have saved myself $2k+ in these wasted clutch kits, multiple belts, and cvt blowers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
In the turbo s versions the higher gearing is the killer is what Adam was telling me as least for those wanting to run 32 inch paddles and a tune. Even his setup is not reliable with that combo he said. Need to do a gear reduction kit.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
If I listen to every thing people had to say that didn't work for them I would have never bought a Polaris.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
If I listen to every thing people had to say that didn't work for them I would have never bought a Polaris.


I think you either get a good one or a bad one. I’ve had 5 other rzr’s with no issues. I can’t get more then 12 miles on current one without breaking a belt. And that’s not even over heating it. Too much variance in all the machine work in the clutches I believe.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
If I listen to every thing people had to say that didn't work for them I would have never bought a Polaris.


I think you either get a good one or a bad one. I’ve had 5 other rzr’s with no issues. I can’t get more then 12 miles on current one without breaking a belt. And that’s not even over heating it. Too much variance in all the machine work in the clutches I believe.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
Sure hope you have a new machine with warranty because you have a serious problem. Hope you can get it worked out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I run a epi teal spring 182/260 in my secondary my belt temps stay around 160-230. I run AA big turbo setup with all their goodies. The only downside is that it brings the rpms up so you need to add weight to the clutch arms. AA uses a 160/220. I also have a epi grey spring that’s 168/240 I have not tried that spring yet. I also run a hunterworks belt seems to be holding up good to 260 motor hp.
Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net

Thanks for the info bigdog, for 25 bucks, im gonna try this first and see how it goes from there. I also run the hunterworks belt.

So I have a 18 xp4 turbo dyanmix. in the sand I run 30 inch paddles. dirt I run 32 mongrels on a 14 inch beadlock rim. I have the AA stage 3 clutch kit with high load helix. belt temps will constantly be above 230 in the sand. when I am 55+ in the dirt the belt hits 220 and keeps climbing the longer I stay on it. I have done the Blowhole, which doesn't help at all with belt temps while WOT, only helps when sitting there at idle, letting the belt cool quicker. (in my opinion)
I did the BMP Cyclone primary clutch cover to try and get more CFM
tuned, level 2 with Gibson exhaust
engine is 100% stock
WHAT DO YOU GUYS DO FOR COOLER BELT TEMPS?????
STM clutch? air dam clutch? some special mod I haven't seen or heard of? My clutch needs more fine tuning perhaps?
Its annoying that we spend all this money on a toy that your supposed to run hard but cant cause the rubber band driving the whole thing gets hot and explodes (in a nut shell), and then spend more money on mods that should help the situation but come up short. :crying
Share your wisdom!! Thanks:grin
Did you remove the black speed limiting spacer in the primary?

Even if you did not, you may have a over travel issue, watch this video and check it
I have watched that video, thanks for always providing good information. When I did my clutch kit I made sure the spacer was in there, and installed correctly, which it was. I haven't checked the over travel yet, BUT when I do, and if it does over travel, how is this fixed? Thanks todd

So I have the best of both worlds. I have the Blow Hole and the CVT Blaster ll. I have Evo stage 2 tune on my 17 Turbo. I also have a Razorback belt gauge. My Blow Hole runs any time the engine is running and I love it. My Blaster ll is on switch power. The only real time I need to have both on the same time is when I'm at the dunes with the outside temps above 70. I can ride all day as hard as I like at the dunes and very really see belt temps above 200. Plus when I do stop I can cool my belt down extremely fast if needed with both fans on.

Every one has their own opinion on clutch cooling system but I can say what I have done works fantastic. The other plus is I push so much air through the clutch it stays ALOT cleaner then when I had no fans. I also run the Wolfsnout CVT filter.
Bimmer do you have a 2 or 4 seater?

Well I wasn’t going to name products but I do run the cvt blaster 2 and moflow exhaust, my results were minimal at best. Helped sure, but not as much as I would like and def not to what is advertised as, “up to x degrees cooler.” I think it just needs a stronger fan, but kind of hard I imagine to do with the size limitations so is what it is. I still have both these products on since I spent the money and it does have some positive effect. This is currently ran with my Airdam setup. I will say the quality of these components, from tubing, fans, and filters are great, I just want and need more results. Is what it is though and they’ll stay on.

I also ran a cvt intake inline fan as well and that did hurt temps in mid to higher rpms, and well I don’t need it to be cooler in lower rpms, I need it at the higher rpms, so that was a waste of money and I ripped it out. The extra downside to inline fan, I had to buy a new stock cvt intake since I cut my original tube to put the inline blower In. So that became more extra cost and a bigger waste.

Then clutch kits as sold by many brands and setup to their instructions, simply don’t touch Airdam. I’ve spent the money on these kits, and even though I would get the rpms dialed in for my size tires and weight of car, power, etc.; the belt temps were still always high. All these kits end of day we’re a waste of money compared to the results of my high belt temps as I had to continue to buy new oem belts at $150+ each time. Such a big waste. If I would have done Airdam to begin with it would have saved me money in belts, clutch kits, etc as you add all that stuff up it is over $2k easy. And Airdam cost me $2100 for his setup. $2100 cause I had Adam set me from a brand new primary otherwise would have been less, like the $1500 mentioned before. Airdam gave me real positive results, that I wish someone hammered in my head before I wasted so much money and time on kits and blowers. So now I’m a super fan and I’ll educate others so they don’t make the same mistake and put money in the wrong place.

For the record I haven’t blown a belt since switching to Airdam. Over a year now on same belt. I have a heavily modified XP4 Turbo on 32” tires, run dunes and Baja type deserts, accessories galore, stage 3 tune and components, oversized AA turbo.

Dstew, If that 25 dollar spring doesn't help my situation, I will spend the money and go air dam. sounds like I will be in your boat if I keep trying new things and the cost keeps adding up. Go big or go home a buddie of mine would say...lol....


Thanks for chiming in everyone! Gives me some different avenues to pursue!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
Best of luck to you and if you can solve it without spending the money that’s a big win. I was at my wits end with it. Finally am happy. I really wish these had direct drive transmissions instead of the cvt system, but that’s another convo.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top