you mite should of bought an MCX kit instead . they have more experiance with turbo systems than anybody else . good luck tho

 

I don't want to start a turbo pissin match. So I will ignore that. Any help would be nice.

 

Yeah.....X2,,,some people:rm_thumbdown:

 

Did you check the connections to the BOV and the BOV itself? I had a leaky one. :rollfinger:

 

The BOV is welded on the charge tube. It has the 0 ring sealing it. I also pinch the signal line going to the BOV, testing to see if it was open(leaking) until it read a signal. Then maybe closing. But it made no difference.

 

Possible the O2 sensor is bad? Maybe you're getting bogus info and it's running you in circles.

 

X2, I have had a couple o2 censors run me in circles. With your machine running grab the wires right at the o2 censor and wiggle them.....I have had the wires go open at the censor as well........

Let us know what the fix is, I am sure it will be something simple.

 

I don't think it's the 02. When I installed the autotune, it had a 02 sensor. The readings are the same between the afr on the gauge K&T uses and on the pcv software autotune's sensor.

 

are you running unleaded race fuel or leaded. if leaded, it is your o2 sensor.

 

Unleaded

 

If it was a faulty 02 then both 02's wouldn't read the same. Plus it runs different when it shows rich.

 

I run my kt kit at 15 lbs,one thing I've noticed with the air/fuel guage is when the motor is cold you need to let the O2 sensor warm up for a minute or so,before you do any ajustments on the fuel box.

 

x2 i was thinking the same thing it takes a min or two to warm the sensor up plus i wouldnt worry about the idle afr so much id worry about the wot afr more

 

When it drops to 10.4 does it run crappy? How is it under load?
I really don't look at my af gauge too much...just once in a while when I'm pushing it hard to make sure it isn't running to lean~ 13. If it is too rich under 10.5 then it bogs down.
Just tune it...and as long as it isn't running too lean...then you should be fine...unless it is physically bogging down.
WOT is most important...when you are going slow and letting off and on the gas you will see some weird numbers for split seconds. The digital gauges makes you more worried than a needle sometimes.

 

If I walk in the garage right know and start it up,with the setting on the pure logic set as I left them(light fast blinking off) it will hardly idle. The afr is 15ish and as it warms up, it moves to 13/14. I then bring the idle fuel up to 4/5 and the idle smooths out and picks up(12.5). All seems good. I can back out of my garage say 40ft, gas it back in my garage and it goes to 10.2/10.4 at idle. How can I tune for that? It does run weak upon becoming rich. After a while the plugs will foul, I tried to just run it at 10.2/10.4, and went through a few set of plugs. It seems electrical. Some sort of sensor, at a certain speed/throttle position, everytime. Maybe at boost, im at a loss. Thanks for the replies.

 

Pm Askin he knows a lot about the k&t set up

 

You put on a new fuel pressure reg, but did you check inital Fuel pressure on start up?
Mine runs at 43-44.
Mine sometimes idles weird on start up...sounds like it has a big cam in it..but runs fine and sounds normal after a minute or 2.

 

Before the reg. it was 48psi. After reg. I can set it from 43 down to 35psi. I have to turn it down to 38 psi to get the afr to mid tens after it changes on me. If I had it set say 43 psi it would be even richer in the high nines. This is all after it goes rich on me.

 

Just curious, the XP have a two fuel pressure regulators which one do you change ? And I really am lost on this PC V programing , but what about try to put targeted AFR in Auto tune table, if this will help somehow ?
milos

 

Have you tried a new Pure logix box?

 

Never mind on that, I see you have tried one...keep me posted im interested...Might be the MAQS...too bad you can't just put a new one in, instead you have to get the whole Throttle body

 

Have you checked the wires going to your extra injectors? You might have gottem oil on the MAQS....
Seems related to the pure logic or injectors. It should run the same at idle...there really isn't anymore fuel going into the motor at idle than on a car without boost since you are making no boost at idle. Sounds like after you gas it and make boost the computer is still adding extra fuel.

 

opcorn:

 

You got a good point. I have checked the third injectors. I disconnected them and made a run. Same thing. But I'm like you, it seems the be fuel box, but I've changed it out already. I usually don't post much, but this one has me asking for help! This has been an every night thing for two months.....

 

Sounds to me your sucking air somewhere and when it warns up it seals

 

Have you tried a little spray of carb cleaner around the throttle body/intake/BOV any vacuum connnection while it's running to see if there's a leak in a strange place?

 

Milos, that's why I bought the pcv w/ autotune. I thought the same thing. But after trying to set up the pcv and giving it a target, it does no good if its changing constantly. I talked to mike at RPM, he agrees that I need to find the root of the problem before the pcv and autotune will work properly. I changed a regulator in the tank and put a adjustable regulator at the fuel rail.

 

St10, I also thought of this. So I let it idle for a while, (after it was cold) getting the temp up. It gets to 200 deg. Still a good afr 12.5. Then go for a ride and about 20/30mph bam. Back to 10.2/10.4. So if it were temp it should of corrected after a long warming idle. This brings me to think something triggers boost/ TPS / volts.

 

have you swept the tps for readings? see if it glitches, or has a dead spot or jumps around?? also if it returns back to same reading

 

what happens if you remove the pcv and pro logic and start it that way its back to stock? dont drive it but to see how it starts and idles wile cold then warm? that would aim it at somthing stock or added

 

JC, I took the pcv off for now. I'm back to the pure logic. I have hooked everything electronically back to stock, just to see. It is way to lean to drive. 15/16 afr hardly idles. So I can't tell much from that test. Rayce and randy both said its not right. So I'm not giving up yet. I shouldnt have to constantly adjust the fuel box. If it ran good I Possibly could live with it. I'm also having a problem getting enough fuel at wot with the fuel pressure turned up(38psi). I have to turn the fuel pressure down to get the afr in the low tens. Catch 22

 

JC, I have hooked everything electronically back to stock, just to see. It is way to lean to drive. 15/16 afr hardly idles. So I can't tell much from that test. Rayce and randy both said its not right. 22

Put my rzr back close to stock, and it still acting up. So its Not the K&t kit. I believe the ECU get readings from various sensor and adjust accordingly. So I think I might have a bad sensor somewhere else. So I'm going to order every sensor( other than TPS) and change them out. I hope this does the trick, I'm out of ideas..... I did read in the service manual that the speed sensor tells the ECU vital info on how and when to add fuel. But if I had a screwed up sensor wouldn't it throw a check engine light??

...remove the turbo kit all together start stock....bone stock...

X2

Lets not go backwards guys.
He's already gone back to stock and still has the problem, with boost tube disconnected and all controls back to stock.
IMO and others on this thread...
Probably related to oem cold engine enrichment not working correctly because of faulty sensors or electrical connections.


JFYI, almost all piggyback fuel controllers only can add fuel. They can't make idle afr leaner than stock oem... impossible to do with them. The one exception to this is the The Power Commander, PCV, the only engine controller that can make it leaner than oem, if I 'm not mistaken.

 

head gasket?????
I had a lean then rich engine problem once that turned out to be a bad head gasket, under boost my AFR was spot on but at idle or just cruising it would lean out because it was sucking in air without a little bit of boost pressure to hide the leak………. Prob doesn’t fit your situation but I thought I would throw it out there for thought.