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My XP always seems to overheat. I've pulled the radiator and completely cleaned it, replaced the fluid, and had it elevated until I couldn't get any more air out of it? I can't get to the bleed screw with enough torque to pull it. Any suggestions? Maybe a thermostat? Thoughts?


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My XP always seems to overheat. I've pulled the radiator and completely cleaned it, replaced the fluid, and had it elevated until I couldn't get any more air out of it? I can't get to the bleed screw with enough torque to pull it. Any suggestions? Maybe a thermostat? Thoughts?


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How hard is it to replace the thermostat? At first glance, it doesn't look very accessible.


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Nothing on these things is very accessible. When you refilled with antifreeze, did you put in any water pump lubricant?

It does sound like a stuck thermostat. Sometimes they can be freed up with w/p lube and a little tapping on the housing.

The other thing that can cause immediate overheating is a blown head gasket or cracked head, allowing exhaust gasses into the cooling system.
 

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Nothing on these things is very accessible. When you refilled with antifreeze, did you put in any water pump lubricant?



It does sound like a stuck thermostat. Sometimes they can be freed up with w/p lube and a little tapping on the housing.



The other thing that can cause immediate overheating is a blown head gasket or cracked head, allowing exhaust gasses into the cooling system.


No, no lubricants. It's not running bad...no water in the oil or visa versa. Might have to take it to Polaris I guess.


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Nothing on these things is very accessible. When you refilled with antifreeze, did you put in any water pump lubricant?



It does sound like a stuck thermostat. Sometimes they can be freed up with w/p lube and a little tapping on the housing.



The other thing that can cause immediate overheating is a blown head gasket or cracked head, allowing exhaust gasses into the cooling system.


No, no lubricants. It's not running bad...no water in the oil or visa versa. Might have to take it to Polaris I guess.


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A crack in the head (into the combustion chamber) won't put oil in the water etc.... It will put exhaust gasses in the water. This can sometimes be detected by visual inspection. The best way is with "Block check". That is likely what the dealer will do first.

Block Tester™ - Test for a Blown Head Gasket with the Original Combustion Leak Tester by Test Tools
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nothing on these things is very accessible. When you refilled with antifreeze, did you put in any water pump lubricant?



It does sound like a stuck thermostat. Sometimes they can be freed up with w/p lube and a little tapping on the housing.



The other thing that can cause immediate overheating is a blown head gasket or cracked head, allowing exhaust gasses into the cooling system.


No, no lubricants. It's not running bad...no water in the oil or visa versa. Might have to take it to Polaris I guess.


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BTW..... I just noticed that you may not have totally bled the cooling system through the bleed screw. My understanding is that it is essential to totally bleed that system or they will over-heat.

Check your owner's manual for the proper procedure.
 

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BTW..... I just noticed that you may not have totally bled the cooling system through the bleed screw. My understanding is that it is essential to totally bleed that system or they will over-heat.

Check your owner's manual for the proper procedure.




This is what I saw but I couldn't get a wrench, socket, or a screwdriver on it to move it. Anyone have a trick for this?



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If it's running good, then look for the simple stuff.

Make sure the air is bled out, so the pump will work, and there's not air trapped in the head.

Make sure the cooling system is holding pressure. Water boils at 212 degrees, and you can get about 3 degrees above boiling, (at sea level, with a 50/50 mix of coolant), for every pound of pressure. A 15 pound radiator cap will get you to about 260 degrees before boil over.

Does the fan come on? Sometimes the fuse blows, or the relay quits.

Is the radiator plugged with dirt/mud? Are the fins straight - not bent over restricting airflow.
 

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I had the same issue with my 2014. I agree totally with everything said above. I ended up getting a quarter drive socket with a swivel attachment on the nut. One I bled all the air out I haven't had any more issues.
 

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I had the same issue with my 2014. I agree totally with everything said above. I ended up getting a quarter drive socket with a swivel attachment on the nut. One I bled all the air out I haven't had any more issues.


I agree also. I want to believe that it must be air in the system.

Coolant is fresh, radiator was pulled, thoroughly cleaned and replaced. I tried bleeding the air out from the radiator but that just might not be adequate.

Anyone know what size he'd that bleeder screw is? I have universal joints but a swivel socket may be just the ticket.


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It's an 8mm. If you can't get it from the access panel between the seats, you can get to it from the top if you pull the heat shield. They are tight from the factory.

I use a 1/4 inch drive with an extension and that always seems to work for me.
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. I think I might have got it. I cleaned out all the mud around the bleeder screw and found it much easier to get to. An 8mm socket on a 1/4"-6" extension did the trick. I found it easiest to get to from in from of the passenger rear wheel. Didn't even need a swivel...the screw angles up to clear any obstructions.

Topped off the radiator, bled the air out till I saw fluid, cycled the fan a couple of times, let it cool and topped it off. Seems to be functioning now.

The true test will be when we are back on the trails in the heat. TX is hot!


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Let it warm up without the radiator cap on, when it gets warm enough that the thermostat open, you should be able to see coolant circulating in the filler cap.
Another method to get air out of the system is to fill the radiator with coolant , then raise the front end as high as possibly with the winch or another lifting device.
 
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