just had motor rebuilt, it ran before had motor rebuilt, reinstalled motor and will not start, motor cranks, checked fuel pressure(40 psi) and can smell fuel, plugs have spark. I sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and nothing. 2 error codes 22(tps bad ground) and 25(incorrect transmission input), I am scratching my head. motor was professionally built and it did run before being pulled, so electronics should be good. Hard 2 believe something went bad since pulling motor. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
armageddon1
Left a ground off, pinched wire or cut, left something un hooked or some how hooked up wrong. When major work is done and it worked befor it's something simple.... Or worse case cam installed /timed wrong
Man I hope it is not timing, how can I tell? I had this motor built by a very reputable company. I know also they put a s cam in it, this is an 08, so not originally an "s". Is the timing set up differnent for a "s" cam, rather than a standard rzr? I believe I double checked all of my connections, except the crank connection, what a pain to try to pull out an reinstall. I asked company about no start and they mentioned checking ground(purple wire) on tps for bad ground. Also mentioned doing compression test to confirm lifters were pumped up?
I had a similar problem when my 2011 motor was rebuilt.
NOTE: I do not fill the antifreeze until I can get the motor to start.
The problem that I found was that the cam shaft drive gear markings seemed to be lined up properly but not on the proper rotation of the Crankshaft!
1. I pulled the motor out again and put it on the bench.
2. I then removed the spark plug so that I was not fighting the compression.
3. I removed the back stator cover and water pump.
4. I did need a gear puller to gently remove the flywheel. (page 3.38 in the repair manual).
5. Be careful and try to not damage the gaskets.
6. Remove the gear/stator housing bolts and remove the gear/stator housing cover and gasket from the crankcase. Be sure to catch the excess oil from the crankcase. (page 3.39)
7. Rotate the crankshaft until the dimple marks on the crank gear, cam gear and the counter-balance gear line up.
8. I then rotated the crankshaft so that the crank gear and the counter-balance gear lined up but the mark on the cam gear was in the 10-11 clock position.
9. I gently removed the gears off of the camshaft. Be warned that this is a two piece gear with 5 parts in total. Try to not separate this gear bundle. If it does spring apart it is not to hard to put them back together as shown on page 3.40 to 3.42 in the manual.
NOTE: I made my own Cam Gear Tapered Pins: (PU-45497-1) with three 2 1/2" x 1/4" bolts by grinding the thread area to a point and then cutting off the hex heads.
10. Take note of where the timing marks in the cam gear relate to the camshaft itself. There is a dowel hole on the camshaft where the cam gears inset into when aligned.
11. I then rotated the camshaft counter clock wise until the time markings on the cam gear lined up again. This will take some trial and error but it will not take too long to get things lined up again.
Remember that the outer gear of the cam gear assembly is slightly rotated by the springs and that the gears do not line up 100%, so gently press on the cam gears until the inside gear is aligned and engaged on the counter-balance gear. I then rotated the outer gear against the springs until it also slid on to the counter-balance gear properly.
NOTE: I already had oil in the motor, so before I take the motor off of the bench and have not installed the spark plugs, I spin the motor over with a drill to get the oil flowing and every thing gets wet inside of the motor!!
12. Reassemble the motor in reverse to how you disassembled it.
13. Reinstall the motor into the RZR.
14. Reconnect the wiring harness and fuel systems.
15. Make sure that there is enough oil in the motor before starting!!!
16. Start the motor.
17. ENJOY
Remember that this was done on my 2011 RZR800, but it should be very similar to the 2008 - 2010 motors.
NOTE: I do not fill the antifreeze until I can get the motor to start.
The problem that I found was that the cam shaft drive gear markings seemed to be lined up properly but not on the proper rotation of the Crankshaft!
1. I pulled the motor out again and put it on the bench.
2. I then removed the spark plug so that I was not fighting the compression.
3. I removed the back stator cover and water pump.
4. I did need a gear puller to gently remove the flywheel. (page 3.38 in the repair manual).
5. Be careful and try to not damage the gaskets.
6. Remove the gear/stator housing bolts and remove the gear/stator housing cover and gasket from the crankcase. Be sure to catch the excess oil from the crankcase. (page 3.39)
7. Rotate the crankshaft until the dimple marks on the crank gear, cam gear and the counter-balance gear line up.
8. I then rotated the crankshaft so that the crank gear and the counter-balance gear lined up but the mark on the cam gear was in the 10-11 clock position.
9. I gently removed the gears off of the camshaft. Be warned that this is a two piece gear with 5 parts in total. Try to not separate this gear bundle. If it does spring apart it is not to hard to put them back together as shown on page 3.40 to 3.42 in the manual.
NOTE: I made my own Cam Gear Tapered Pins: (PU-45497-1) with three 2 1/2" x 1/4" bolts by grinding the thread area to a point and then cutting off the hex heads.
10. Take note of where the timing marks in the cam gear relate to the camshaft itself. There is a dowel hole on the camshaft where the cam gears inset into when aligned.
11. I then rotated the camshaft counter clock wise until the time markings on the cam gear lined up again. This will take some trial and error but it will not take too long to get things lined up again.
Remember that the outer gear of the cam gear assembly is slightly rotated by the springs and that the gears do not line up 100%, so gently press on the cam gears until the inside gear is aligned and engaged on the counter-balance gear. I then rotated the outer gear against the springs until it also slid on to the counter-balance gear properly.
NOTE: I already had oil in the motor, so before I take the motor off of the bench and have not installed the spark plugs, I spin the motor over with a drill to get the oil flowing and every thing gets wet inside of the motor!!
12. Reassemble the motor in reverse to how you disassembled it.
13. Reinstall the motor into the RZR.
14. Reconnect the wiring harness and fuel systems.
15. Make sure that there is enough oil in the motor before starting!!!
16. Start the motor.
17. ENJOY
Remember that this was done on my 2011 RZR800, but it should be very similar to the 2008 - 2010 motors.
FYI there are the following marks on each gear;
1) Crank gear 1 mark
2) Counter Balancer Gear 2 marks (1) at 9 o'clock and (1) at 12 o'clock
3) Cam Gear 1 mark
If the crank and balancer gear marks are lined up and the other balancer mark is lined up with the cam mark the engine is timed...
There is NO WAY the marks are all lined up and the timing is off except for 1...
You must have the correct cam gear installed... By this I mean the cam gear that originally came with the engine or a new like item (by part number)...
If you install a 800 Sportsman cam gear in your 800 RZR engine it'll be out of time...
FACT not FICTION...
1) Crank gear 1 mark
2) Counter Balancer Gear 2 marks (1) at 9 o'clock and (1) at 12 o'clock
3) Cam Gear 1 mark
If the crank and balancer gear marks are lined up and the other balancer mark is lined up with the cam mark the engine is timed...
There is NO WAY the marks are all lined up and the timing is off except for 1...
You must have the correct cam gear installed... By this I mean the cam gear that originally came with the engine or a new like item (by part number)...
If you install a 800 Sportsman cam gear in your 800 RZR engine it'll be out of time...
FACT not FICTION...
he saide check error codes, found 22 and 25,(tps short/ground & wrong transmission gear selection), tranny shouldn't be issue, he said check purple wire going to tps for short/cut, which I have unraveled all the way to junction in main harness and didn't find anything, said check fuel pressure which i did and is 40psi, checked spark and am geting. Also said check compression, which I asked why and he said maybe the lifters haven't pumped up(?). spark and fuel should me should start I would think?
G
Did the TPS get moved? I believe it will throw 22 if its out of adjustment. Cabt say I've seen the adjustment cause one to not fire off at all..but maybe it depends on how much it's off..a tad will make one not idle and run like S.
Barry, can you take a video of it cranking? May help in the diagnosis process, and I would like to get to the bottom of this issue...
Nate
Alba Racing
Nate
Alba Racing
first thing I would do is, crank engine over with plug wires disconnected, until oil pressure pumps up. On rebuilds, this process can take 60 seconds of cranking. Once it is determined that you have oil pressure, if it still doesnt want to run, check compression. I'm assuming you had to ship this motor somewhere to get rebuilt, therefore you would have to ship it back in order for the builder to diagnose, and that is why you are trying to do it yourself. Otherwise, I would return it to the builder.
So this all started in November of 2012, and now you are having problems with it? You need to clarify your time line.
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