To answer your question, "will engine be ok in long run"... hard to say. I am very skeptical of the diagnosis/repair from your dealer. You didn't say how they repaired it. Did they replace the PRV dowel, or file the burr off? or something else ?
answer: They said they filed it off
i was changing my oil on saturday fired it up and no oil got to the top end, it was ticking like crazy let it run for a couple minutes, about 4 to see if it would build oil pressure, never did... so i brought it to the dealer and they said it was the oil pressure valve, had a burr from factory and closed shut not letting any oil to the top end... dealer said the oil pressure is good now and everything seems fine, they didnt change the oil again or nothing, my concerns are should i have to change the oil again just in case some fillings came off of the unlubricated parts? and is my engine gonna be ok in the long term? it only has about 80 miles i dont want a piece of junk with 8 hours on it...should i get rid of it or what?
Incorrect information from your dealer.
Makes me wonder what was really wrong...
1) PRV spring keeps valve closed, which is full oil pressure. Once the pressure gets to high(above PRV set point) it OPENS, not closes. The opposite of what your dealer told you.
2)An open prv will stop oil from going to all the engine parts not just the top end. Your dealer said just the top end was starved of oil. Not true if what they said about the PRV is true.
3)Ticking is valve train type noise, knocking is crank type noise.
I question why, after 8 hours of cold starts and hot engine running, that would cause the prv to open and close many times, would the prv "burr" decide to hang up in the full open position starving the engine of oil pressure. If it had a burr big enough to hang it up even with that spring pushing it closed, my bet is it would of done it the first time it stated up.
Not to mention, with a 'burr' big enough to hang dowel pin open, against spring pressure, would be difficult if not impossible to install in its bore to start with. Unless someone drove it in there with a punch or something.Or put it in with the chamfer in the wrong direction.
Don't confuse this with dowel pins that are hard to remove. Totally different thing than a prv jammed open against spring pressure. The more I think about this, the more difficult I find it is to believe.
no warranty, i told them to at least change the oil and they still wont even do that even if i ask, they say, well you just changed it....they said the oil residue on the head should have been enough for it to no cause serious damage but i just dont believe it and i told em i dont wand a piece of shit with 8 hours on it but they wont do anything for me even if i ask for it. no warranty but it is clearly a defect from new, do i stand a chance trying to get a complete rebuild at no cost to me?
"oil residue on the head should have been enough for it to no cause serious damage"
How does oil puddled in the head help lubricate the babbitt crank bearings, or cam bearings, or balance shaft bearings or any other oil pressure serviced area?
So, this is what I get from your posts. RZR was fine till you changed the oil, then immediately after you had a bad engine noise.
Something is going on here more than we, or maybe you(op), know.
You didn't happen to take out the bolt behind the oil filter when changing the oil, thinking it was the oil fill did you ?
answer: no i did not, all i did was remove the drain plug and then filled it through the dip stick
If it were mine, and there is not some other agenda at work here, I would just drive it and watch/listen to it and see how it does. Stay close to camp or home to start with. Maybe do a compression test, and a hot oil pressure test first.
answer: they did a hot oil pressure test, said it was good he also said the compression was good aswell.
Only 8 hours, and no warranty? Don't understand that...
answer: its out of warranty 6 months ago
jmo