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Discussion Starter #1
I lent out my 1000S to a friend and it came back with a rotational squeak. My machine has over 2000 miles.

Observations:

4x4 isn't as smooth as last year. I have lubed the prop shaft.

Rotational squeak wise it is worth the hassle to lube the wheel bearings and retorque to what is it something like 250 ft pounds?

 

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Never lend your machine.
They come with almost no grease. Buy a greasing tool and a set of bearings. It’s prob already to late to save yours.
 

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I lent out my 1000S to a friend and it came back with a rotational squeak. My machine has over 2000 miles.

Observations:

4x4 isn't as smooth as last year. I have lubed the prop shaft.

Rotational squeak wise it is worth the hassle to lube the wheel bearings and retorque to what is it something like 250 ft pounds?

X2 on not lending machine.

Are you sure about the squeak location or guessing? Diagnose then repair.

Service manuals are worth whatever you pay for them. Lots of info on torque specs.

Have you serviced the front diff. Ever?
 

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I have found the best way to detect where all the weird noises are coming from is to ...Find a semi rocky / rough downhill section of road and with the engine off and costing in neutral, you can hear every squeak ,thump or rattle. Also this eliminate most the power train and you hear just the Body rattles ,Brakes ,suspension noises. If you then only hear it when the engine is running and under power you know it is power train related .
During hunting season in order to get into areas quietly ,I do a lot of costing down hill with the engine off in neutral and I know what needs to be greased or fixed immediately.
 

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If you have not greased the bearings I would expect they are probably worn out.

I had been greasing our S1000 since new about every 500 miles. At 2000 miles I had installed new rear CV shafts (torn boots) and rear brakes while it was apart.

I re-greased all 4 wheel bearings. The front axle bearings took very little grease but the rears took a couple extra pumps to fill them back up.

After a 300 mile weekend of riding I could hear what sounded like dry bearings. Jacked up the rear and checked the condition of the rear bearings. There was some bearing play so I tore it down in order to install some new bearings.

As I took it apart the rear bearings fell apart in my hands. The rear bearings were completely dry of grease. The front bearings were tight and only took one pump of grease each side.

Based on my experience the rear bearings must take a lot more abuse than the front
ones.

Our XPT has much better bearings. They have steel seals that take more heat and abuse than the older plastic seals. After 3300 miles of a lot worse abuse than our S1000, they are tight like the first time I greased them. I will install the new style bearings from now on in any machine that they fit.


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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't have time today to grease the wheel bearings (but I will when I switch to my studded winter wheels and tires) I grease the prop shaft and the sway bar mounts. I noticed too that my electrical harness had just started to drag on the prop shaft and so I took off the cover and sorted that out. No chance to ride today as it is raining.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
With snow coming I swapped out my summer wheels and tires for my winter wheels and tires and went about greasing the wheel bearings starting with the right rear and working clockwise around the machine. The left front came hub came apart but I managed to reassemble it and bolt the winter wheel on. I didn't bother greasing the right front as I'll swap out both the front wheel bearings when they come in. I still haven't had a chance to take the machine for a ride but need it for utility work Wednesday when I burn a slash pile.

Question: all ball, pivot works or OEM for wheel bearings? The OEMs appear to have gone over 2K.
 

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just fyi but grease your sway bar bushings, i did hubs and bearings on my 800xc and 900 trail then it (900) squeaked bad when it was in motion found it to be dry sway bay bushings
 

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With snow coming I swapped out my summer wheels and tires for my winter wheels and tires and went about greasing the wheel bearings starting with the right rear and working clockwise around the machine. The left front came hub came apart but I managed to reassemble it and bolt the winter wheel on. I didn't bother greasing the right front as I'll swap out both the front wheel bearings when they come in. I still haven't had a chance to take the machine for a ride but need it for utility work Wednesday when I burn a slash pile.

Question: all ball, pivot works or OEM for wheel bearings? The OEMs appear to have gone over 2K.
OEM bearings have been updated a few times. I took a couple of new and old bearings apart recently. The newest OEM outer bearing shell inner race had about 40% more surface area than other cheaper bearings I had on hand. That inner race is what takes the side loads from the wheel. Until someone develops a better bearing and you can see the difference between them internally there is no reason to use anything else.

For my 2018 Trails and Rocks Edition - OEM bearing (Part #3514924) is the newest design.

Check latest part numbers for your machine. It might be the same bearing, just confirm it before ordering.

I'm still hopeful SKF will come out with a better unit in the Explorer Series for the wheels. If they exist I have not been able to find them. SKF Explorer would be the final solution. Until then, OEM.

I bet you can see the difference if you look close where the bearings ride inside the outer shell.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
With snow coming I swapped out my summer wheels and tires for my winter wheels and tires and went about greasing the wheel bearings starting with the right rear and working clockwise around the machine. The left front came hub came apart but I managed to reassemble it and bolt the winter wheel on. I didn't bother greasing the right front as I'll swap out both the front wheel bearings when they come in. I still haven't had a chance to take the machine for a ride but need it for utility work Wednesday when I burn a slash pile.

Question: all ball, pivot works or OEM for wheel bearings? The OEMs appear to have gone over 2K.
OEM bearings have been updated a few times. I took a couple of new and old bearings apart recently. The newest OEM outer bearing shell inner race had about 40% more surface area than other cheaper bearings I had on hand. That inner race is what takes the side loads from the wheel. Until someone develops a better bearing and you can see the difference between them internally there is no reason to use anything else.

For my 2018 Trails and Rocks Edition - OEM bearing (Part #3514924) is the newest design.

Check latest part numbers for your machine. It might be the same bearing, just confirm it before ordering.

I'm still hopeful SKF will come out with a better unit in the Explorer Series for the wheels. If they exist I have not been able to find them. SKF Explorer would be the final solution. Until then, OEM.

I bet you can see the difference if you look close where the bearings ride inside the outer shell.
According to Polaris' parts finder, 3514822 (44X72X33.1) is the part number for a 2017 1000S front wheel bearings.

That said, is everybody preferring the OEM wheel bearings?

EDIT: I went with Super ATV bearings. https://www.superatv.com/polaris-rzr-wheel-bearing-2011

I already know that the OEM bearings went over 2,000 miles but know I'll know how far inexpensive bearings will go. While I was at it, I ordered a cast carrier bearing with a remote grease line as it was on black friday sale. https://www.superatv.com/polaris-heavy-duty-bearing-carrier
 

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You may have already seen these other threads, but worth a look as many updates go unknown as changes do happen. Polaris is not very good about keeping up on updating part numbers. Not good about listing specific updates for us either. I struggled a while to find simple axle washers that changed part numbers 2-3 times and ended up being the newer part number for the RS1. Not even available as listed for my machine.

Anyway, that's what I like about these forums. Share info that otherwise would not be available to us guys working on our own machines and trying to fix things Polaris overlooked, improved or just never told owners about.

The newer bearings are backwards compatible per Polaris. I like this thread with Polaris info printed out plain as day.
https://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-turbo/442089-2017-vs-2018-xpt-dynamix-differences-noticed-so-far-2.html

This parts list shows the latest bearing part number is used in all the Polaris rigs with same dimensions.
http://parts.polarisind.com/OtherAssemblies.asp?partid=3514924

Wish I were on the mailing list for such info somewhere. Don't do FB and likely miss out on info there as well.

https://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/440209-new-bearings-across-board-2018-a.html

This is a good source of info in one place.
https://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-discussion/457170-2014-2017-vs-2018-wheel-bearing-differences-photos-print.html

Nothing wrong with Super ATV. I like and buy stuff from them and customer service has been great. I did not have one of their bearings to compare. However, keep in mind how much work is involved in changing bearings and after you do it a time or two it makes sense to use whatever last the longest and grease it often. Even with a press it takes time to do the job right and I hate doing the same repair over and over myself because I keep everything long term and do all my own work.

Sharing info is great!
 
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