Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

What would you do?

2.6K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  FunRide  
#1 ·
I ride in Pennsylvania, mostly tight trails, rocky, some mud and also in Ohio with heavy rocks and ruts. I bottom out constantly, and it's only a matter of time before I tear something up bad that costs $$$$$. I NEVER get stuck, and I'm almost always in 2 wheel drive. I pretty much broke the bank moving from a 4 wheeler to the RZR, so money is kind of tight. Would you 1. Take you chances until you can afford a lift kit, new wheels and tires for clearance, or 2. Buy a a UHMW type skid kit when I protect my RZR jewels. ???? I'm leaning toward option 2 since I never get "stuck."
 
#4 ·
You mean you added the UHMW skid to it and you are fine, or are you saying that you find the factory skid fine? At a minimum, I need the rock sliders for the sides in Elk County. But out in Wellsvill, OH just outside of Pittsburgh, it's heavy ruts and rocks where you are skidding like crazy. Not mud, it's rock, up and down.
 
#5 ·
Call Bob at Factory UTV and tell him how you ride. He will suggest the right UHMW skid for you, either 3/8" (what I have), or the 1/2" version. I have hit some stuff in my high speed wash runs and the UHMW has held up great. Tell Bob you're a forum member, I think he discounts to members. I have his full package, skid, a-arm guards, fuel tank guard and rock sliders.
 
#7 ·
I have run the 1/2 inch skids from FUTV for over a year and half here in PA and have have nothing but good things to say about them. If it were up to me I would always have skids first. Having a lift and raising your center of gravity isnt worth it to me with all the off cambers and hills we have around here.
 
#9 ·
Don't forget, the stock springs are made in China and are junk. They will start to sag on your first ride and just continue. You can increase your preload to get your clearance back, but eventually you'll run out of room and start to coil bind. After the skid, I'd look into a set of springs. I run Makin' Trax and I wouldn't own anything else, but there are several spring suppliers here on the forum that can supply springs.
 
#11 ·
You are smart. That skid system is unbeatable, and really unless you are going real fast, it is about all you really need.

Save up some coin after the shock of that expenditure, and then call Steve at Makin Trax suspensions, and get the progressive springs. Your factory springs will soon sag and your minimal ground clearance will be further reduced.

The springs will not only re-establish your ride height, but will enormously improve your ride quality.

After recovery from that I recommend going to 26X9X12 bighorn tires all around, that will give you an even more quality ride, and a good 1-1 1/2" true lift. All this without the risk of damaging axles, cv joints, or sacrificing ride quality.

:camorzr:
 
#14 ·
I too bottomed out on everything that my buddies with S's were flying over. So I put on the 3/8" FUTV Skid Plate. Guess what? I still hit everything, but didn't cringe quite as hard. So I put on a set of Afco Shocks with Progressive Rate Sprins from Steve at Makin Trax. Guess what? now FLY over things that we would have slowed down to 5 MPH in the past. And the ride is superb!
 
#26 ·
Not at all. It does handle differently, you have to be careful at first, you'll notice more body roll. Once you get used to it you'll find it handles much better as all four wheels are now planted. If you want to try it, simply disconnect one side (doesn't matter which one) of the vertical link. Your rear wheels will now act independently of each other. Give it a good try, you'll like it!!
 
#20 ·
Ride is very controlled and much more comfortable. I took the stock springs off my shocks and installed a set of Makin Trax progressive springs. Spring rate is double the stock spring rate, so sway bars are not needed. Lets each tire articulate independent of the others giving a much better ride.
 
#27 ·