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I know there is a tool to remove Front Drive Shaft roll pin but will a regular punch not work? I have been hammering away at the roll pin and it won't move. Is there a certain side you have to knock it out from (Drive/Passenger)?
Should I just buy removal tool?

Please help

Treeaxx
2011 RZR-S LE Sunset
 

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TURBO'S RULE
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I know there is a tool to remove Front Drive Shaft roll pin but will a regular punch not work? I have been hammering away at the roll pin and it won't move. Is there a certain side you have to knock it out from (Drive/Passenger)?
Should I just buy removal tool?

Please help

Treeaxx
2011 RZR-S LE Sunset
Important to use the correct size punch. And hold the punch square to pin hole. Drive it out with sharp small blows from the hammer.
Use wd-40, soak for a while first.
 

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it aint a dowel pin, or grooved pin, taper, or straight pin.
Its a basic spring pin and they are chamferd on each end. s/b!
little penetrating fluid. Correct Ø punch. One smack with framing hammer.

replaced mine with a hardened bolt.
 

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Just did mine about 2 hours ago... I read on here somewhere that they make specific punches for roll pins, they have a "sharp" nipple on the end. I just happened to have one and it worked after an hour of beating on it. It may have been coincidence since I also sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it soak while I researched it.
 

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If I were turning a wrench for a living i would own a pin set.
Dont anyone confuse it with a center punch. Different animals.
Show the real pin punch. Few people have them.
 
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Google roll pin punch..
But a regular punch will work...it's a coiled metal pin..ie flat metal rolled into a round shape .the key is using one about 1/2 or so of the diameter of the roll pin..it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. Soaking it in a lubricant like PB Blaster or WD40 prior to can only help.
 

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i prefer to remove it from underneath, put the front up on jack stands, easier to see, easier to hold punch, easier to swing w/o hitting other suspension parts.
 

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Google roll pin punch..
But a regular punch will work...it's a coiled metal pin..ie flat metal rolled into a round shape .the key is using one about 1/2 or so of the diameter of the roll pin..it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. Soaking it in a lubricant like PB Blaster or WD40 prior to can only help.
protocol when editing from a Google copy /paste is to use quoties and italic. I think.
 
G

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Google roll pin punch..
But a regular punch will work...it's a coiled metal pin..ie flat metal rolled into a round shape .the key is using one about 1/2 or so of the diameter of the roll pin..it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. Soaking it in a lubricant like PB Blaster or WD40 prior to can only help.
protocol when editing from a Google copy /paste is to use quoties and italic. I think.
I didn't copy or paste or edit anything..I just meant of he wanted to see a roll punch google it. The description of how a roll pin works ect was all me..good or bad :)
 

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.........it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. .......
myth, wives tale.
its not a telescoping safety cone or a vintage telescoping drinking glass.
Its a hardened pin. The whole thing moves.
(Could use that as a trick question on a mechanics test)

If the center did that it would waste energy and be less effective.

As far as the preferred tool with the center feature, it locates the center so you are steady and strike better.
 
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Thanks for setting the record straight Mark. Maybe..funny how the ones I've removed come out easier with a smaller punch than one close to the diameter of the pin. But hey if that's what Google told you I guess it's the case. Like I said my description was my just observation from actually removing them. I don't need the nipple to keep a punch centered.
.........it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. .......
myth, wives tale.
its not a telescoping safety cone or a vintage telescoping drinking glass.
Its a hardened pin. The whole thing moves.
(Could use that as a trick question on a mechanics test)

If the center did that it would waste energy and be less effective.

As far as the preferred tool with the center feature, it locates the center so you are steady and strike better.
 
G

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I googled it and see what you probably read mostly taking about small roll pins used in firearms. I could see the nipple being important in that case if you ever remove a second one try a punch smaller than the pin after you beat on it a little with one near the diameter of the pin. I didn't google it but I'd think it's made of spring steel..purpose being for the coils to tighten as its driven in and hold it in place..
BTW when I've driven them out with a smaller punch the center gets offset as its coming out..convex on one end concave on the other, it's slight but it's there.
Thanks for setting the record straight Mark. Maybe..funny how t
he ones I've removed come out easier with a smaller punch than one close to the diameter of the pin. But hey if that's what Google told you I guess it's the case. Like I said my description was my just observation from actually removing them. I don't need the nipple to keep a punch centered.
.........it only strikes the inner coils which moves them laterally independant of the outer coils reducing the spring tension. Think of rolling up a sheet of paper into a tube very tight then pushing on the center rolls from the end with a pencil. .......
myth, wives tale.
its not a telescoping safety cone or a vintage telescoping drinking glass.
Its a hardened pin. The whole thing moves.
(Could use that as a trick question on a mechanics test)

If the center did that it would waste energy and be less effective.

As far as the preferred tool with the center feature, it locates the center so you are steady and strike better.
 

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I just replaced my front prop this week end. My spring pin came out really easy with a punch. However, installing the new pin is another story. I wish i'd thought about a hardened bolt!!!
 

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I used an air chisel on mine. It came right out. I tired the punch and a hammer and i couldn't get it out. Little word of advice go buy a $20 air chisel it made it so easy.
 
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I used an air chisel on mine. It came right out. I tired the punch and a hammer and i couldn't get it out. Little word of advice go buy a $20 air chisel it made it so easy.
That's the best advice yet for a stubborn pin lol! I don't have a tip small enough for mine..I'll have together one the next time I have trouble with one. I just wouldn't hit it too long if it don't immediately start moving..regroup.
 
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