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Swapping out the stock seats for new 1000 seats. Got the adapter plates from Longhorn Fab.
Do you sit the same with the new seats, or do you have to get used to a different 'feel'?
I haven't taken it for a long test ride yet, but I can say I feel more comfortable by the bolstering of the new seats. Feels like I'm sitting IN the seat, not on top of it. The new seats are just a bit thicker on the bottom too, so seat height is a bit taller (maybe <1" total with the seat plates). I'm confident its a great upgrade over the stock ones.
 

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I haven't taken it for a long test ride yet, but I can say I feel more comfortable
They sure LOOK cooler than the stock seats. I've still got the stock seats in ours, and we're loving them because they're more comfortable than the seats on our former ATV's. Probably not a good comparison - :grin

Down the line I may look into 'cooling up' and getting new seats as well.
 

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Made my rear pinion nut tools and installed new nut today.
 

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Fab’d up an auxiliary fuse/relay panel for my lightbar, pod lights, rock lights and a few more other goodies!


All I can say about this is WOW.

I plan on doing some re-wireing to my BLue Sea Fuse block on a Vent Racing mount, but that is impressive.


Thanks! I have seen nice work out there as well. I will post a pic when it’s all done. Countdown to Arizona is on!!


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I just bought my '12 800S in December and I've been going thru it to make sure its ready for springtime riding in WVa. During a waterpump seal replacement I discovered that the wheel bearings were shot and the control arm bushings were a bit loose. I tore it apart and also found that the front control arm mounts had wallered out, especially the rear mounts. I ordered the bearings, a MI bearing greaser set, control arm bushings from Garage Products, Fox shock bushings from Performance SXS Bushings and greasable automotive grade sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension.

On the frame I welded grade 8 washers on the mounting points, then from the control arm side I welded the washer to the tab through the hole, filling in the worn out section of frame. Then I filed the hole out making it super tight to the control arm bolt. I know about the stepped washers, but I wanted to see how this would hold up. I'm not jumping buildings with this thing, just trail riding.

Now I'm on to the pinion nut.
 

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Your control arm tab fix will work just fine! What causes them to wallow out, is people let the bushings get bad and bolts get loose.
 

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Speed, you use one of those sockets to push out the bearing and seat the new one back in?

What size sockets?


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My new power suite, from Concours Specialties. On the left are the relay-driven outputs from my dash switches- front lightbars, mid/45*lights (love these), rear lights, and a 'permissive' for whip, interior lights, and stereo.. so in essence, a master switch for accessories. The busbar on the right is for all the ground connections. I have a belden 14g. 10 conductor mainwire running the lights, so I had spare conductors to bring the grounds back to the bus, with 4 spare conductors for future build... In this photo they're not all terminated, I've done that and routed everything through wire loom to clean it up further. There are also 2 LEDs that will be tied to the master permissive that will light up the whole bay there at night, so I don't have to hold a flashlight to see what the heck is going on. Everthing is soldered/heatshrunk.

Concours supplies the Bussman relay/fusebox, pre-wired, along with the ground bus. It makes for a very tidy (and waterproof) setup
 

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Speed, you use one of those sockets to push out the bearing and seat the new one back in?

What size sockets?


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Drakku, I did use sockets. Go to to Northern tool for the best price on big 3/4" drive sockets (~$14 each). I used a 2 /16 on the front bearings, 2 1/8" slightly trimmed for the rear and used a 2 3/8" under the knuckle when I pressed them back in. Soon as you get your bearings, put them in the freezer to shrink them a tad. Then after they're frozen slightly heat up the knuckle with a propane torch. This will make it easier for both removal and installation.
 

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Speed, you use one of those sockets to push out the bearing and seat the new one back in?

What size sockets?


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
Drakku, I did use sockets. Go to to Northern tool for the best price on big 3/4" drive sockets (~$14 each). I used a 2 /16 on the front bearings, 2 1/8" slightly trimmed for the rear and used a 2 3/8" under the knuckle when I pressed them back in. Soon as you get your bearings, put them in the freezer to shrink them a tad. Then after they're frozen slightly heat up the knuckle with a propane torch. This will make it easier for both removal and installation.
I use an old bearing to press them back in but its always a crap shoot on getting them out lol.

Thank you for the information
 

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I became a loyal member of the "RZR 800 Tight Nut Club" :devil I procured the tools and parts from the great folks at 3M Fabrications on Facebook. It took sometime to get the gear case out, but I'm glad I did because it was loose. Not finger loose, but still loose. Mine is a mostly stock 2012 with 1800 miles.

I also replaced the water pump seal. Seems that a bunch of crud worked its way up the weep hole and ate the seal. I finished that job by installing the drilled out zerk and installing some tubing to run up the frame.
 

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