Come on guys lets see what you think is the best ones out there.

 

I like the ones you sent me?? what were those..They work perfect and have ZERO issues, and thats tearing them up on your +5 1.5f/r kit and power steering jolting around in the mud!

Rhino, Rhino, ahh thats it............ any working axle is a GOOD axle!

 

I would have liked to use your Rhino brand axles, but did not want to wait until later this fall for them to be in stock. I went with the Gorillas.

 

X2!

 

Your axles as well as most of your other parts seem great ,however what you need is a canadian wharehouse/distributor because it takes tolong and costs to much to ship up here. The amount of ATV & S/S up here would blow you away and if you had the parts uphere you would be VERY busy....

 

Pretty sure on the Turner's.
Ken

 

Good poll...but most are going to prefer..the High dollar ones..Turner..but can most afford them..no way jose..Turners will win this poll hands down... would be my guess...What most prefer is what they can afford...so if the poll was based off that..I would say Rhino...I would prefer to not have a job and have money running out my ears...Than I would get the ones that will Win this poll..

 

What, WOW, I just looked into the Turner's and since you really want opinions here, at an average of $1850 for a set of 4, not counting shipping, so lets say you do need a replacment. Thats $500 a shot. At that price I would be happy to stick with the Rhinos and have plenty of cash to buy an extra front and rear axle to have laying around in my trailer. If I ever break one I have a replacement... I can understand always wanting more and the best..But Im running a stock engine, I want to go up to a Weber but keep Eyeballing a stage 3 holtz bigbore.. I guess I will have to listen to what "they" say about how my Rhino's will hold up to the added forces, But as of right now, Theres nothing I can do to break mine nor justify the $$ spent.. They are nice yes.. But in my opinion this isnt like shocks, it doesnt effect my ride quality, but might effect my reliability.. When I start hearing that Rhino's are failing left and right..then I might jump, But 90%(a guesstimate) of people that Ive read that have broken axles, have either bottomed out , jumped wrong ect..... that seems like the failure started somewhere other than the axles.. More like cause & effect. What really caused them to break?

Conclusion; My opinion is for whatever axles you feel can sustain your muscle! I doubt I will ever snap mine (knock on wood)
Cheers~

 

when time comes to leave for Baja, i'll be running whichever company can get a STRONG set (plus a spare) to me for a good price. till then stock will do for testing.

 

Im interested in buying a new set of axles. I like the price of the Rhinos but I want axles that are going to perform the best for the longest amount of time. I mainly just do a lot of hill climbs and stuff. What makes Turner's so expensive and the best on the market?

 

ttt

 

I run the Summers Brothers cause that is what the previous owner installed just prior to me taking ownership. Money-wise I think the rhino (superatv) axles are a bargain.

 

I dont think you would break a Turner Nitro axle.I have seen alot of broken summer bros.

 

Just be aware, just because it is a Summers Brothers axle doesn't tell you what material it is made of. You can order axles from them in several different types of material. I have the Summers 300M axles in mine. I would however like to find some better CV joints to go along with the axles.

 

super atv rhino axles got my vote

 

ones that wont pop out or break

 

Turner all the way. Although I have busted 3 of them but with the new upgraded cages they seem even stronger. Excellent customer service and they have fixed the ones I busted same day they get them.

 

??? waaah ??? "Turner all the way. Although I Have busted 3 of them"

:noscrewed: j/k

 

Yeah, I was waiting on that. :rofl3:
I'm not sure what the problem was in the begining but they have got it straightened out since and were always more than happy to take care of the problem. Good customer service goes along way with me. Drove 300 miles(one way) once to get one fixed and they rebuilt it while I waited. At the time I purchased mine I was only considering Turner or Gorilla and have heard very little good about Gorilla.

 

Well I voted Turner because I just bought and installed them with my long travel kit. I hope their Customer service is good. Installed the axles, rode around the yard about 10 minutes, pulled back in the garage to check adjustments and both cv boot clips on my left rear axle broke off and the front right outside boot is leaking grease. Heck of a lot of money for this not to be checked at the factory.

 

I would bet dinner that the boot straps broke because you didn't grind the frame and turn the back lower arm bolts around. They are TIGHT because they are SO BIG! The directions even tell you to check clearances.

 

Hopefully not, I actually had the axles installed at a very high end custom shop that does custom trucks, atv's, utv's and sand rails. It was installed along with my Lonestar 8" and all was checked.
Did not see any frame issues or bolt issues with the kit. Also this does not address the outside boot on same axle.
Taking back to shop today for another look.

 

Axles are easy to replace compared to ring and pinions! Stronger is not always better, the weakest link should be the easiest to replace and I bet cheapest! Been running SB for thirty years and drag racers know their stuff and they know SB!

 

Yes, actually that is something that has to be looked at too. The rear CV goes inside a 'tunnel' that has to be clearanced too. The SS bands will rub inside the aluminum axle carrier without clearancing them too. The CVs are made as big as possible for maximum strength.

 

I just received my Gorilla axles today...and they are definitely quite a bit larger than the stockers. Before I bolted the shock back on, I moved the suspension from fully up to fully down and rotated the axle. There's not a lot of clearance, but appears there's enough. The CV's are a lot tighter than the stock ones though...maybe because the stock ones have been used??? Looking forward to trying these "babies" out! Good thing I'm doing a clutch kit at the same time with the extra weight!

 

I've broken several stock, a gorrila and a couple from cv man. I have about 400mile on the rhino brand from superatv that came with their s conversion and so far they are the best that I have had...no problems with them at all!!! I'm sticking with superatv....the turners and smother's I'm sure are awesome products but giving the price of them I'm sticking with superatv axles...

 

Summers Brothers are on mine...because that's what RacerTech includes with their +3 kit

Realistically, the 'best' would be proven via testing... Bobby Long does such testing on his products, and I've watched him torque-test various parts. Really, that is the only way to decide the best. (and yes, in the full-size world, I've broken a few dozen, including some 4340 stuff )

 

Exactly how much does the complete axles from Turners cost anyway?

 

I think when I priced them out they were about $450 each! I got the gorillas. I'd rather the axle break over the a-arm and differential.

 

Once I went to 300m and S cv's I have not had an issue. I've broke 3 4340 axle's and will not go back to them. Regular cv's out lasted the 4340 axle's. I do beat them up pretty good racing. The 300m axle's have made it through 6 races when the 4340's made it only 2 total.

 

Can someone explain whats so good about summer bro's shafts or any companys shafts for that matter? Any company that just offers a shaft and no cv's, how is that any better then stock? 9 out of 10 times you break a cv not the shaft. So why wouldn't you just want to purchase complete axles that have heavy-duty CV's?

 

Because you can get the shafts made out of a LOT better materials so they will hold up much better.

 

I like the Turner and the Rhino because they are thick,the gorilla's is good but not good same as the Turner and the Rhino.