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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bough a set of Walker Evans 2.5 "Velocity shocks but since installing them I seem to be bottoming out all the time with a horrible bang, even on small jumps and g-outs. I spoke to a guy at walker and he said add more ride hight and adjust compression, which I did but was no different. The best way I can describe it is, its all or nothing I'm either riding plush or completely bottomed out. A few people have also said the rears squatting when under acceleration. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also attached a video where you can hear the bang on landing

 

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What's your ride height actually set at? Looks like you are running some seriously small tires. I'm wondering if you are actually hitting the belly on the ground. Are they valved and sprung specifically for your setup and tire size or just out the box from walker?
 

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I watched the video and it doesn't seem to be bottoming that bad? but hard to tell in a video . Where are your cross over rings set at in the rear ...maybe try lowering them in rear rear to get into the main spring sooner
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What's your ride height actually set at? Looks like you are running some seriously small tires. I'm wondering if you are actually hitting the belly on the ground. Are they valved and sprung specifically for your setup and tire size or just out the box from walker?
Have got ride hight set at 16.5"on the front and 10.5" in the rear and both high and low speed compression set 2 clicks out from hard. They are just out of the box from walker, but I've looked at another guy's set up I race with (same shocks and springs) and I have to put my whole body weight on his bumper to get his to move, mine I can push down with my arms pretty easy.

 

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Looks like your rear cross-over is sitting on the spring divider. With the 6" difference in ride height front to rear and no pre-load isnt like a single rate shock? Would lowering the divider and setting up your pre-load better give you a better starting point for tuning? I'm certainly not a suspension guy but just observation.
 

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Your ride height in the front needs lowered 2” and the rear raised about 3


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

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Most setups will want you around 1/2 to 3/4 rake front to rear with the front being higher. What size tires are you running? They look to b around a 26-28" I would set the ride height at 15" front and 14.5 rear with that small of a tire. Most shock companies recommend 16-16.5" for ride height but this is normally for a 30"+ tire size. Once the ride height is set then setup your crossover correctly. 9 times out of 10 the out of box valving and springs will not work if you race. Normally the valving and spring package is for dunes or trail riding. You will need to possibly send them back out for a re spring and revalve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Most setups will want you around 1/2 to 3/4 rake front to rear with the front being higher. What size tires are you running? They look to b around a 26-28" I would set the ride height at 15" front and 14.5 rear with that small of a tire. Most shock companies recommend 16-16.5" for ride height but this is normally for a 30"+ tire size. Once the ride height is set then setup your crossover correctly. 9 times out of 10 the out of box valving and springs will not work if you race. Normally the valving and spring package is for dunes or trail riding. You will need to possibly send them back out for a re spring and revalve.
Yep running 26" tires, going to try adjusting the ride hight. I think the rear top spring may end up being compressed like the standard shocks.
 

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Most all walker 2.5s u buy come with a small tender that will compress all the way to your rate slider pretty easily. Once your ride height is set I would say get the lock rings about 1/2 to 3/4 away from the rate slider. Then put high and low speed around 3 clicks from full soft then go rip it and adjust clickers as needed. If it's still too soft or still bottoming out I would say a valving or spring change is in order. My last set of wev shocks I had fcr here in Ohio setup. And it was night and day better. I'm currently run fox rc2.5s done by shock therapy and like those as well.
 

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I agree with what DBRs1 said. For the most part, at static ride height there is usually very little gap between the divider and the crossover rings (this is why everyone complaining of collapsed tender springs on stock shocks makes me wonder sometimes.) Even more true in the front than rear because under acceleration you will be lifting the front end. If that picture of your front suspension is without a jack supporting it then you have way too much travel to the crossover ring which equals too soft of a spring rate until you are too deep in to your travel which equals too fast of a shock compression speed which equals dampening not being able to catch up. If you go from acceleration to braking and then turn in this will result in hard nose diving into the outside wheel on corners.

Also, based on the video, it looks like you have way too fast rebound though that could look that way because you short landed a table top and the ground dropped away as you came off the back side. The reason this is significant is because bottoming out and too fast rebound are, in a way, opposite issues. Bottoming comes from too soft springs and too soft compression setting while too fast rebound comes from too heavy springs and too little rebound setting.
 

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I know when I had my wer shocks they had way too much rebound out of the box and it needed a much different spring package. The other bad part about wer shocks is you have no rebound adjustment like Kings. Fcr re did my shocks and I can't stress enough how much of a difference the correct spring rates and correct valving made. Most likely you will need to send you shocks back out because most "out of the box" shocks are not even close to being setup for what you are doing and the tire size you ate running. I had the same issues with my fox rc2.5 setup out if the box. Spring rates wrong, too much rebound and just over all off. After I got them back from shock therapy they have been on point.
 

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Your track looks similar to what we race on here in Nevada/ California, on my turbo and Non turbo race cars I typically try to have a 13” ride height. It helps out way more for cornering. I do run a stiffer valving from Walker, I also set my rear crossover spring 1.5” up from the slider and in the front I put the cross over right on the slider. This helps with keeping me flat in the air when hitting jumps. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree with what DBRs1 said. For the most part, at static ride height there is usually very little gap between the divider and the crossover rings (this is why everyone complaining of collapsed tender springs on stock shocks makes me wonder sometimes.) Even more true in the front than rear because under acceleration you will be lifting the front end. If that picture of your front suspension is without a jack supporting it then you have way too much travel to the crossover ring which equals too soft of a spring rate until you are too deep in to your travel which equals too fast of a shock compression speed which equals dampening not being able to catch up. If you go from acceleration to braking and then turn in this will result in hard nose diving into the outside wheel on corners.

Also, based on the video, it looks like you have way too fast rebound though that could look that way because you short landed a table top and the ground dropped away as you came off the back side. The reason this is significant is because bottoming out and too fast rebound are, in a way, opposite issues. Bottoming comes from too soft springs and too soft compression setting while too fast rebound comes from too heavy springs and too little rebound setting.
Yep there is no jack supporting the front and your right about acceleration to braking and then turn it does exactly that. Im trying to take into consideration what everyones saying and find a mid point. Im aiming for around 13-14" ride hight but not sure about crossover placement. I also only have hi/low speed compression adjustments also will adding more psi in the shocks help?
 
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