Newbie here but had something I wanted to add. The switch is a input to the computer so it knows that your foot is on the throttle making it open and not something else like a bound cable. You may have noticed that the pedal has about a 1/4" of play in it. That 1/4 " of play is to activate that switch. When the 1/4" of play is taken up then the throttle cable will begine to move. Only when the switch is activated then it will allow full rpm operation of the motor. Other wise you are limited to something like 3500 rpm.

I plan on bypassing mine before it becomes a issue somewhere like a muskeg hole. If you insist on keeping this switch then it would also be good advise to do as the original poster said and adjust it. Also you should tie the wires to the firewall and make sure they don't flop around and break off.

 

Thanks for the info. I will certainly keep it in mind.

 

if your machine gives you these problems 10 miles from nowhere you can unplug the vane switch and it will run to get you home. the check engine light will be on but at least it won't leave you stranded. people have unplugged the switch and plugged it back in and it would run. mine does this and i turn the key to run position without starting, pump the gas pedal 3 times and start it. this has temp got me going until the engine cools off again. best idea is to adjust it as discribed and have it cured.

 

what is the hack to bypass it? I would like to have it ready just in case wires break etc.

 

the hack is a resistor you put inline that tricks the ECM into thinking you are always on the gas. i made two for 6 bucks. i found the female plug ends on a 97 lumina car in the wrecking yard (under the hood abs wires on the strut towers) and got a the RESISTOR VALUE PACKAGE from the source (radio shack) its a pack of 150 VARIOUS resistors. there will be two in the package the rest are garbage .you will need a ohms meter to verify the 6.8ohms resistor (look up the resistor colour chart this realy speeds this up) SOLDER the resistor across the wires tape it to the body of the plug . locate the male end up above the gas pedal, plug it in ,ZIP tie the plug so it doesnt flop around and break the wires. the plug is black in colour has an oval shape with a partial divider in it, i looked at many GM vehicles before i found the rite one . i'll pic n post shortly

 

are you sure it's not 6.80K ohms? that what the manual calls out when pedal is depressed. I just wasn't sure how smart the system was.

 

I believe the 2 resistors in the sensor is 2.15k ohms and 4.65kohms film resistor and the reed swicth inline. So when the vane passes the over the reed switch it closes the reed closes and gives the 6.8k ohms reading to the ECU. If you were to start up your razor and reach down and pull on the throttle cable without stepping on the pedal the razor would either die or go into limp mode. From what I can tell the vane passes through the magnet and reed which will cause the magnetic pull to close the reed and make a complete circuit of 6.8 k ohms. The is no adjustment on the vane itself. The only adjustment is on the sensor or throttle cable.

 

Gyver
I have taken this sensor apart and there is no reason for the vane to run higher up in the passage. The reason for that is because the reed switch runs right where the vane passes through the sensor . There is no reason for the vane to be any higher because the resistors are located in that part of the sensor. Locating the vane higher up in the sensor will only cause a magnetic pull in that area of the sensor also . There is nothing to pull on the resistors. That is my opinion from what I have taken apart on the sensor so far. I will try to take apart the good sensor so I can test it while watching the reed switch operate. It will be hard because I have to cut away the plastic and then scrap the silicon sealant away from the swicth without breaking it.i have been wanting to do that for awhile but have been to busy.

 

pumpjocky is the purpose of the "knife" on the pedal to block the magnetisim and allow the reed switch to move??? it just seemed that with the knife not blocking the magnet as much as possible it was , for lack of terms "leaking" and alowing a weak field, along with vibration, to close the reed during normal operation. thus setting code ect. kicking the pedal ?? i cycled my key 2-3 times and got a reset when i got "stung" in the boonies but it still tripped out again several times during the rest of my trip. once i got home and was able to read about this , i made my adjustment and have not had a repeat . guys with multiple switch problems ??? putting good switchs on bad aligned brackets??? dealers saying fixed then cant load onto trailer??? im going with adjustment . as a mechanic i've seen lots of related problms over my time . im not claiming to be a holy grail ...but if it prevents someone from having to walk out , i accept paypal lol

 

I can see if you passed something through the hall that is plastic, woodand even pack mudd between it. When put something through the hall that is metal it is only going to give it more magnetic pull . The magnet I think is 1/4 OD cx .25 long if that is what I remember. That tells me that the magnet needs the vane to help it create enough pull to close the circuit and add 2.15k ohms to the 4.65k ohms =6.8k ohms.because at idle I think a ohm meter will read between 2.15 or 2.2k ohms..If I can take the sensor apart without breaking the reed switch . I will make a video of the operation.

 

Here are some pictures of the first bypass that I made . The second connector I made I tucked the resistor inside the connector for a cleaner install. Here is a pic of the magnet and board.

 

When you bend the bracket down all you are doing is making the vane pass higher up , but the reed is already in line with the vane the way the board is placed in the sensor body. Therefore bending bracket does nothing but make the vane higher. That's my opinion.

By the way I have a bunch 6.8k resistors if anybody needs them I had to pay 7.00 in shipping so I made it worth the shipping .

 

Thanks for making this video. It helped me solve my problem.

 

did you try reading at the plug on the wire harness???just curious . i believe it was your input from the 800 wont start thread and subsequent info from the manual that allowed the hack to be made and work. i was just trying to reduce the 500+replies that not all would bother to read, analize,and conclude from, to a simple fix for technicaly challenged to use or try. we were upset the issue had to occure in the first place, and were sick imagining, say hafting to drag your wheelchair bound friend out from where i was,8 miles up an old log road 5 miles into the bush . i dont believe the 700 sportsman with us would have towed us out way to rocky,muddy n hilly there in northern ontairio

 

As far as adjusting the cable it looks like you have to have some slack in the cable because if the rpms get up to a certain range before the vane passes through the magnet The ECU senses a stuck throttle and puts it into limp mode.

 

great vids . ok everytime you place the metal between the magnet and sensor ,you put it all the way into the groove, again i agree the side to sivde makes no differance im saying the depth the vane is into the groove was my issue . with the throttle depressed the vane was just 1/16 inch into the groove, i dont feel this was blocking enuff of the magnetic field , by bending it down it works as it is supposed to,just as your vidio shows.
good job that should clarify this issue for owners and dealers alike

 

GYVER. I just did a quick test with a piece of metal located up against the top of the sensor . It still goes into limp mode. The only place that the metal would work was right between the magnet and the reed terminal
. The magnet does not sit directly across from the reed. The magnet is located all the way at the front bottom of the sender when it is installed in the razor. I tried to watch the reed open and close but it was hard to see with the magnifier. .

 

The reed is not all the way up into the sensor. The read is about an 1/8 of inch from the bottom of the sensor. The reed need the vane in order to close the valve because the magnet is not strong enough to pull it closed. I bet if you were to start up you razor and pull on the throttle cable with out stepping on the pedal it will either stall out or go into limp mode and that is because the vane has not passed through the hall . In the video I was just showing the you can place the vane anywhere in the hall and it will function the way it is suppose to. The dealers are telling you that they have to be adjusted directly in the center in order to work properly. That not is true by the video.

 

I bet if you made the vane a lot thinner when it passes through the hall it would cause it to go into limp mode. The piece of metal I used was the same thickness

 

I see one reference to 800's in the first post.

I'm guessing this is an issue for an 800 model???

What?

 

whoa this post is old.

 

GYVER I just finished removing the plastic and silicone on my back up sensor. If you can enlarge the picture you can see the reed at the bottom of the sensor and the two resistors. I should be able to make a video and see the reed switch in action. Maybe this weekend. Its not a good picture but you should be able to see everthing.You can also tell that moving the vane higher up in the sensor will do nothing.

 

this is for 2013 570,800and 900. I believe the 2014 570,800 and 900 all still use the vane sensor.

 

this is for 2013 570,800and 900. I believe the 2014 570,800 and I am not sure about the 900. The 900 my have went to throttle by wire. I have not been to the dealer to check it out yet.

Added safety feature, huh?

Thanks

 

Yeap

 

Two friends with 2013 800S's have replaced the vanes. I believe the replacement is an update with a different part # .........Their dealers gave them the units to replace themselves. Good luck.

 

I'm having the same issue right now 2013 800s model can somebody please tell me how to make a bypass plug to deal with this issue

 

This thread is from 8 years ago

 

what he hell is a vane? I know this is an old thread but I never heard of this before. I have a 2014 800 so maybe this is not an issue?

 

Yep, still an issue. Polaris added the vane sensor starting in 2013 so your 2014 has the potential for this problem. It is intended to catch a stuck open throttle and it puts the engine into limp mode with check engine 520 194. Some people reported pumping the throttle pedal several times would reset the sensor and it would continue to work. In my case I couldn't get rid of the problem. Replacing the sensor didn't correct it either. The resister mentioned above tricks the ecu to think everything is well so you can remove the vane sensor.

 

 

we concluded the vane switch is sitting to high above the "knife" on the gas pedal causing ENGINE LIGHT and subsequent codes .....the switch needs to just clear the switch when the gas is pushed ....... but centered the knife just the same. the pic shows a punch beside the wires and over the switch .bracket is thick so it needs a fair pull to bend it.

The photo for this explanation is no longer available. Can you post it again? Thanks