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I'm looking to purchase a 900s, and I've been able to find some used ones around me with pretty low mileage. Most of them are 2015's with around or under 500 miles on them. And for how much that brings down the price I'd be willing to pick up a used one that is in good shape. I'm just not sure what updates have been made to the 900s since 2015. Aesthetically they look the same, but are there any mechanical differences? Or even any aesthetic differences I'm not noticing? Also if there are any common issues that I should be looking for that you know of, please let me know! I wasn't able to find too much info about common issues on them so far. I'm coming from a 2010 800, so this is all new to me. Thanks in advance!

-Connor
 

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Secondary clutch does not stand up to abuse. Different design on 2016+. Personally I have about 2500 miles on my 2015, but I don't jump or abuse my machine. You can take the cover off and take the secondary apart (one bolt) and pull the outer sheave off to inspect the rollers. See the videos on www.hunterworks.com for some info.

Other than that, I don't think there's much changed. I have no regrets on buying mine, an upgrade from a 50" inch RZR570.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Denver! I ended up getting a 2015 with under 500 miles on it for a great deal, so I figure if I have to do some work on the clutch then that's just part of it. I'm going to pull out the secondary this afternoon and check it out.
 

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The newer 900s have the 1000xp front diff. If you do any hill killing get ready to do the upgrade. i blew 2 factory 900 diffs before i put the 1k in.
 

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The newer 900s have the 1000xp front diff. If you do any hill killing get ready to do the upgrade. i blew 2 factory 900 diffs before i put the 1k in.
How new did they start doing that? I have a 2017.

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Discussion Starter #6
The newer 900s have the 1000xp front diff. If you do any hill killing get ready to do the upgrade. i blew 2 factory 900 diffs before i put the 1k in.
Welp, I may already be seeing signs of that. Rode this thing around the night after I picked it up, so it's at just over 500 miles now. I don't know if the previous owner ever changed the fluids, so I decided I'd go ahead and change them. Rear dif/transmisson/transfer case looked alright. Fluid was pretty much solid black, and there are shavings on the plug. I figure that's expected though if this is the first change it has seen. The front dif is a different story though, had some metal chunks in there. I'll attach a picture. Those are the three chunks on the rag beside the plug. That's the best picture I got unfortunately. I really don't know what would be acceptable as far as those chunks go. I'm guessing none? I'm inclined to just run the thing until the front dif gives out then see about the 1kxp front dif swap. Or am I worrying too much? Do those chunks look like a bad sign?
 

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Chunks are generally considered a bad omen...always will be some goo on the magnets. Also, at 500 miles, there should have been an initial fluid change at 25 hours and possibly another before the 500 mile mark, depending on how many hours it has, so hopefully the previous owner did change them out! I wouldn鈥檛 worry too much about it...drive it and if it breaks then deal with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Chunks are generally considered a bad omen...always will be some goo on the magnets. Also, at 500 miles, there should have been an initial fluid change at 25 hours and possibly another before the 500 mile mark, depending on how many hours it has, so hopefully the previous owner did change them out! I wouldn鈥檛 worry too much about it...drive it and if it breaks then deal with it!
Oh yeah, you're right. I read the maintenance schedule wrong. Well that's what I'll do, just go with it until it gives out. Thanks for the reassurance!
 

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If it's only got 500 miles on it and had no fluid changes, I wouldn't be surprised with a little debris from break in. Give it another 100 miles, change fluids again. If there's still debris, another 100 miles. If it's cleared up after that, send it.

As for the clutch, I switched my secondary to the TAS-03 from the 2015 Trail 900 and installed a Dalton helix and spring. Much better. If I knew I'd be installing a new primary a month later, I would have just gone with a Duraclutch setup to begin with.
 

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id split it open and take a look could be just be a piece of sprag chipped which is a pretty easy fix. I believe they started putting the 1xp diff in in 17'. They never really stated it just happened cause the much small 900 diff cost them a lot in warranty repairs. Metal is normal on these differs for a few thousand miles just not chucks. There isnt anything to taking them apart. There are a million video on youtube just put a zip tie around the sprag at top and bottom as you pull it out so that your rollers and springs dont pop out and go everywhere. Theres not backlash or preload on these like cars, they pretty much just go together like legos. When you put the bolts back in the cover use medium locktite and torque to spec and run it till it blows.
 

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If I had to choose between a 15 and 16 or later I would take the 15 so I could easily swap to the better EBS style clutch we sell and no noise in secondary with a thicker belt like the 16 and newer so in my opinion you did well

The rest of changes is not that big of a deal to me

Todd
 

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If I had to choose between a 15 and 16 or later I would take the 15 so I could easily swap to the better EBS style clutch we sell and no noise in secondary with a thicker belt like the 16 and newer so in my opinion you did well

The rest of changes is not that big of a deal to me

Todd
Im curious what is the advantage to switching to the EBS clutch other than the thicker belt? And what all is involved just swap the primary?
 

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If I had to choose between a 15 and 16 or later I would take the 15 so I could easily swap to the better EBS style clutch we sell and no noise in secondary with a thicker belt like the 16 and newer so in my opinion you did well

The rest of changes is not that big of a deal to me

Todd
Im curious what is the advantage to switching to the EBS clutch other than the thicker belt? And what all is involved just swap the primary?
The secondary in a 15 S fails all the time, just a cheap made clutch so this one is much better and all you have to do is pull secondary off and put new one on.

You mentioned primary, it is not involved in this situation

Todd
 
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