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Unhooking sway bars!

32K views 69 replies 37 participants last post by  stimleck  
#1 ·
I know this has been beat to death but since I'm so stubborn I refained from unhooking the sway bars on the 570 so as to not lose stability in cornering. I should have listened to you folks who have experience at this because OMG what a difference! The ride is so much softer and I'm going over rough stuff considerably faster than with them hooked up and the cornering is just as positive as before at speeds under 40. Once you adjust your driving to compensate for the nose diving into corners, I found that in rough corners I go faster without worrying about it tipping over. Yes it does push the front end a bit more but good throttle control overcomes that. I didn't notice any more bottoming than before but previous g-outs are not there anymore. :)

I have a bad neck so I need a plush ride and losing the sway bars did just that. My neck feels fine after a good, fast, rough 32 miles!.....or maybe it was the beer I drank afterwards..........hmmmm!:pint:
 
#5 ·
To all of you guys who are dis-connecting and raving about it, all's I can say is: just don't go flinging your RZR into high-speed corners out in the desert (or anywhere else for that matter), or you'll be back here telling the rest of us, in fine detail, just how quickly your RZR rolled-over and what it felt like to be sliding along on your side, or looking out at the world upside-down. Then you'll be surprised at the number of responses that you'll get saying, "Been there, Done that, got the T-shirt"; i.e., this bridge has been crossed before, many times................

Cheers
 
#6 ·
I love not having the front sway bar (infact; I removed it completely) but experimented with and without the rear. Like keeping the rear connected. This configuration seems to give me a nice compliant ride, but also feels very controllable when "drifting" on the loose graded roads.

I do feel these RZRs have sort of a "knifes edge" when sliding - everything is lots of fun right up until you've gone too far!
 
#11 ·
I found the machine has a ton of body roll with both bars disconnected and a full bed load of gear. It was much better in the slower rought trails but was very sketchy on the faster more open trails where I would normaly see 45-50mph on long sweeping turns. I plan on doing some sort of quick disconnect or upgraded coils for next season.
 
#12 ·
I've had both of mine disconnected for quite a while now and it drives and rides just fine. With or without you can put your machine into a situation where it'll roll over just fine. It's all in what you want to do and how you want to do it.
 
#15 ·
After a hard day at Barnwell Mountain here in TX it seems disconnects are an absolute must do for me! My buddy swears I had it balanced on one front wheel at times during some gnarly big rock patch descents, and the front would hop sideways off rocks when staring at the sky and digging our way back up. I need articulation and more ground clearance, but can't give up side stability either, as we had the roll cage sliding along trees in some off-camber sections. Seems I may have found the limits of the 570, and it's an impressive little machine in the nasty stuff!
 
#22 ·
It seems most folks are emphatically for or against disconnecting one or both sway bars. I think it probably depends on the riding terrain and style. I ride pretty fast on uneven ground and with the sway bars attached, my rig rides WAYYYYY flatter than when they are removed. I can zig-zag across deep ruts and hardly feel them. I run with both sway bars attached. The cornering is certainly better that way as well.

Roy
 
#25 ·
This is why I feel I must have quick disco's on her, as depending on where I'm at my riding style changes accordingly. One park will have fast track and wide open spaces where I'm 40-50mph and drifting a lot, while the next week I may be rockcrawling all weekend and never see over 10mph.
 
#23 ·
Spent a lot getting my suspension where I want it, and now that I am done, I am here to tell you the ONLY reason they put sway bars on these machines is to compensate for a sadly lacking suspension system.

Say goodbye to Sachs shocks and especially those butter soft springs that come standard, and the POS sway bars as well.

Took a chop saw to the front and rear sway bars, pulled them through and tossed them in the dumpster.

I am way, way more stable and smooth in all aspects of riding, yes, even cornering at high speeds on dirt roads, no sliding, or bouncing around corners, nothing but superior traction and control.

People are battling these issues from start to finish here, trying to solve the suspension and clearance problems which are related, I found the ticket, it just costs a lot of money.
 
#24 ·
We ride in the woods a lot.. I prefer no front sway bar and keeping the rear.. works fine for my needs.. know your limits.
 
#27 ·
gotta agree with old dog new trick get some decent shocks and some high quality springs
remove front sway bar and use for a fire poker
remove rear sway bar and keep for back up fire poker
I'm with Olddog AND Mainiac; throw away the Polaris (Sach's) shocks and springs (they are both absolute junk), and get yourself some good high-quality springs (I prefer King Progressives). As for sway-bars (yea or nay?), mine didn't even come with a front one, so there was no issue there. I disconnected the rear one and tried it in some really rough, gnarly stuff and was REALLY impressed with the improved traction and handling (due to the increased articulation), but when I tried to run the same set-up balls-out across the desert, the degree of body-roll through the corners was too scary, so I hooked the rear sway-bar back up. I am now of the firm opinion that the best of both worlds can be achieved by throwing away the front sway-bar (if you have one) and adding a quick-disconnect to the rear sway-bar, so you can run it for the flat-out, high-speed stuff when it presents itself, and disconnect it when you're running the tight, gnarly stuff. My two-bits........

Cheers
 
#31 ·
loosened the nuts on the sway bar links on the rear, this lets the rear wheels move a little but is still stable on cornering. You just replace the nut with 2 thin jam nuts and run the up to the end of the link best of both worlds..

Doug
I'm having trouble imagining how 2 thin jam-nuts is functionally equivalent to completely disconnecting one link from the rear sway-bar. Please enlighten me/us..........

Cheers
 
#32 ·
I am interested in knowing a proven way to have a limited travel rear sway bar. That being it allows more articulation but still limits the amount of roll. Something that you might be able to adjust to your likening. Any thing like this being done that works?
 
#33 ·
Just thinking would lengthening the rear sway bar give you more articulation but still limit it so you don't have as much roll than totally without them?
 
#36 ·
Interested in what you come up with. I like the idea of a either quick disconnects or more movement in the swaybar/link junction on the rear bar.

Goodino: Not that hard to post photos, but a bit of a learning curve at first. Log onto Photobucket.com (I'm sure there are others, but that is the one I know) set up a free account, and upload whatever photos you want. Then make a post here and click the little icon above called "insert image" and copy the specific photo link from Photobucket. Make sure you don't have a double http:// at the begining of the link (I just delete it when the box comes up just before pasting the photobucket link). It is really easy to do once you figure out the steps. Good luck!
 
#40 ·
Front or rear sway bar? And how do you ride, and what kind of terrain?
 
#43 ·
What kind of terrain, and how do you ride (fast/slow/rough/easy)?
 
#47 ·
I'm going to try unhooking the front. I don't usually run over 40 anyway so corner lean shouldn't be a problem, but I agree with the other poster that said unhooking the rear sway bar made it too mushy.