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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #21
there will also be a review of the powercommander autotune along with the SC review.
Cool. Would you be willing to separate the two reviews? Like to hear what you find.

absolutely. i'm interested to see what the autotune can do since the tunes i have "corrected" after being autotuned have always been faster than with just the autotune. the biggest limiting areas with them is with really aggressive cams and at the low throttle positions. now i don't know if that was due to operator error or limitations in what the autotune can do. other tuners i know have seen the same results. the stock internal rzr with nearly equal head pipes and dual throttle bodies is the ideal candidate for showing the difference between a combined tune and individual cylinder tuning. if there is a noticeable difference with things being nearly equal, that will really show that dual cylinder tuning is the way to go on all twin cylinder machines. on a can-am it is a no brainer due to the odd firing motor, unequal intake runner direction and lengths, the coolant flow, and the difference in sharpness of turns when the head pipes leave the motor. i've seen as much as a 20 point difference from one cylinder to another on a stockish bike, which is the equivalent to having one cylinder at 12:1 and the other at 14:1. once cams are installed or other major internal motor work, the difference gets even higher, 30-40 points.
 

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well i had a couple set backs yesterday. it took my buddy a little longer than i expected to weld the O2 bungs on the head pipes. then the PCV didn't have the current crank position sensor plugs, so i spliced them in. once i know the right wires to connect to (i'm pretty sure they are right, though), i'll connect them in a more permanent fashion. and finally the manual states that a 1-1/8" deep well socket is needed, which i borrowed from a friend, since i rarely ever need deep well sockets that big, but the new crank bolt/adapter to drive the gear box is actually 1". just a few minor things that added up to things taking longer than i expected. but it is all coming along well. the install should be done today, and hopefully i'll have time to get a quick tune as well.

i would like to say a big FU to polaris for designing the CVT (calling it a PVT is just plain retarded) and shock locations so you have to unbolt the left shock to get the cover off the CVT. that is just plain stupid on the engineers part.
then you dont want to attempt a belt change on a commander!!
 

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When this review is complete, I think we need to transfer this thread (or start a new one with copied posts) to the 900 forum. Alot of people are gonna want to hear the autotune and charger reviews.
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #25
When this review is complete, I think we need to transfer this thread (or start a new one with copied posts) to the 900 forum. Alot of people are gonna want to hear the autotune and charger reviews.

i planned to post threads with links to this one, instead of posting the same thing multiple times. i know most forums frown upon that. but if the moderators don't mind, then i'll just copy and paste it in a new thread.
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #26
well i had a couple set backs yesterday. it took my buddy a little longer than i expected to weld the O2 bungs on the head pipes. then the PCV didn't have the current crank position sensor plugs, so i spliced them in. once i know the right wires to connect to (i'm pretty sure they are right, though), i'll connect them in a more permanent fashion. and finally the manual states that a 1-1/8" deep well socket is needed, which i borrowed from a friend, since i rarely ever need deep well sockets that big, but the new crank bolt/adapter to drive the gear box is actually 1". just a few minor things that added up to things taking longer than i expected. but it is all coming along well. the install should be done today, and hopefully i'll have time to get a quick tune as well.

i would like to say a big FU to polaris for designing the CVT (calling it a PVT is just plain retarded) and shock locations so you have to unbolt the left shock to get the cover off the CVT. that is just plain stupid on the engineers part.
then you dont want to attempt a belt change on a commander!!

i haven't seen any commanders around here yet, so i haven't had the opportunity to work one one yet. i've heard they suck for belt changes, but i don't know how bad.
 

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I love seeing builds in progress. So exciting...
 

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Wow, didn't know that on the clutch house. Let's just say that I'm not gonna be finding reasons to go in there unless I need to change the belt. Bad Polaris...:rm_thumbdown:

yeah, i'm going to have to tune the CVT on the street with the cover off. you know how i fine tune things, so putting the cover on and off is not an option. well it is, but it would make tuning the clutches a week long project! i'm going to see what i can put around it to make sure a pebble or other debris doesn't pop up and hit the clutches.

the service manual shows how to change the belt without removing the cover and notes that removing the wheel and shock is not necessary. it also says to mark the belt direction. i'm not sure why they didn't just put arrows on the belt, lol. instead of the magic bolt that can-am uses for belt changes, they include a tool with the tool kit that basically pries the secondary open. i'll take a bolt that holds it open any day over the polaris system. it makes me really miss can-am clutching, lol.


Brian a good starting place is 68 grams per arm and make sure you remove the cover gasket or that will be $30.00 down the drain...

Also I've never been able to remove the cover (I've done quite a few) without removing the bottom shock bolt and swinging the shock out of the way...

You can change the belt without removing the cover...
 

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Brian will probably do a good job reviewing but if I were reviewing I would make one point up front. The thing is big. Some bolt-ons are not for everyone.
We saw one at Dealer Expo. Two guys I rode with were waving me over to the booth. I shook my head. I could see it two booths away. Seemed to look good from a distance. The unique shaped cooler was definitely up there. Booth looked professional.
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #33
Brian a good starting place is 68 grams per arm and make sure you remove the cover gasket or that will be $30.00 down the drain...

Also I've never been able to remove the cover (I've done quite a few) without removing the bottom shock bolt and swinging the shock out of the way...

You can change the belt without removing the cover...

thanks for the starting point. i fully loaded them to 74 grams to make sure it didn't hit the rev limiter right away. i got the cover gasket out when i removed the cover. i can see how to change the belt without removing the lower shock bolt, but could not get the cover off without swinging the shock out of the way. i may try again, but i spent probably 5 minutes trying to find and angle that worked to get it off without messing with the shock.
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #34
Brian will probably do a good job reviewing but if I were reviewing I would make one point up front. The thing is big. Some bolt-ons are not for everyone.
We saw one at Dealer Expo. Two guys I rode with were waving me over to the booth. I shook my head. I could see it two booths away. Seemed to look good from a distance. The unique shaped cooler was definitely up there. Booth looked professional.

the kit is definitely big, and i'm not a fan of the intercooler placement. like any modification, it isn't for everyone. but it is as true of a bolt on as possible that i have seen. i thought about fabbing a shroud and putting it in the bed, but that will definitely extend the time i have the rzr by quite a bit. if i can design a relatively easy way to do it, i'll have the engineer at work make a punching program and bend print so it could be easily reproduced for anyone else who buys the kit and wants me to make it for them. with the intercooler in the bed, it will drastically cut down on how noticeable the kit is, but it will also cut down on beer cooler space :pint: i wish there was a good way to mount it under the bed. that would keep the piping shorter, which is always a good thing for responsiveness, and keep it more stealth. i'm kicking around some ideas since i have access to CNC punches and presses at work, along with aluminum up to .090" thick and insert machines to press in threaded stainless steel inserts (or zinc plated).
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #35



I love seeing builds in progress. So exciting...

i'll be uploading a bunch more pictures in a little bit. the install is done and awaiting tuning. it's raining today and tires spinning don't give an accurate load on the motor. i've got my LM-2 hooked to each head pipe with the autotune hooked up after the pipes come together. hopefully tomorrow will be better weather. now it's time to get cleaned up before going to dinner then frog gigging later since it's been rainy all day. and yes, i am that country for you guys up north and west!
 

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couldn't get my clutch cover off either. had a guy (210lbs) get on the "bed" made it squat just enough to twist the cover out. have done it twice now...easy now... just gotta have weight on the back.


oh and great write up!!!!
 

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got wake?
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Discussion Starter #39
couldn't get my clutch cover off either. had a guy (210lbs) get on the "bed" made it squat just enough to twist the cover out. have done it twice now...easy now... just gotta have weight on the back.


oh and great write up!!!!

that is an interesting way to do it. i hadn't thought about loading up the bed to make it squat more.
 
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