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Discussion Starter #21
Sorry, been gone a while.

I ordered an new plastic cage that came with springs. I took the springs from OE plastic cage and installed them on the NEW DFR cage. Oh, DFR did come through for me. Took them a bit, but they did come through.

sandwarrior, that is exactly what mine did. At the very least, you need to open the diff. I believe that you'll find your cage is shot. Even if the cage is still in tact, it could be that the springs are worn out. Keep in mind that this will ultimately cause the cage to eat itself up. Hope this helps.
 

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Sounds great, I will pull it apart shortly..should be interesting to see what you guys have been talking about.


Sorry, been gone a while.

I ordered an new plastic cage that came with springs. I took the springs from OE plastic cage and installed them on the NEW DFR cage. Oh, DFR did come through for me. Took them a bit, but they did come through.

sandwarrior, that is exactly what mine did. At the very least, you need to open the diff. I believe that you'll find your cage is shot. Even if the cage is still in tact, it could be that the springs are worn out. Keep in mind that this will ultimately cause the cage to eat itself up. Hope this helps.
 

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I.U.O.E. Local 39
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I've had problems with my front diff for the past 300 miles, i have 650 total. I've brought it to the shop twice to have it looked at. When I pick it up they tell me that the AWD is working fine. This problem has forced me to get a winch prematurely. I've had to use it more than I'd like to due to the front end not engaging.

According to the Service Manual your supposed to have a minimum of 11vdc at the connector coming from the wiring harness. For some reason my voltage fluctuates from 7 to 12vdc. I think it may be a bad ground, not sure. I have not pulled the wiring harness apart to check,... yet. I Ohm'd the diff and it comes in at 23, which is good. The manual says that it should be 21.6 - 24.4 Ohms.

I check voltage going to the switch at the connector. I have 12vdc at the connector. I jumped the hot to the gray diff power wire, simulating the switch. I check the connector going to the diff and voltage fluctuates. I checked continuity of the switch and its good.

I cut the connector both sides going to the diff, thinking it was the connector. Continuity was good. I soldered in a new Painless 2 wire connector to replace the one I just cut, ugh!

I decided to run 12vdc straight to the diff from the battery, viola! I could hear the coil energize. I had the 08 RZR on jack stands. I thought the front diff would engage. I ran it and it did not. I called DFR and questioned if I needed a billet cage. I explained what I found. They said my voltage should not fluctuate. They also told me that the FWD needs to be under load for it to engage. I put it all back together and will test it Thursday. This really sucks! The service manual does not have a wiring diagram to trace.
 

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For some reason my voltage fluctuates from 7 to 12vdc. I think it may be a bad ground, not sure. I have not pulled the wiring harness apart to check,... yet.
......
I decided to run 12vdc straight to the diff from the battery, viola! I could hear the coil energize. I had the 08 RZR on jack stands. I thought the front diff would engage. I ran it and it did not. I called DFR and questioned if I needed a billet cage. I explained what I found. They said my voltage should not fluctuate. They also told me that the FWD needs to be under load for it to engage. I put it all back together and will test it Thursday. This really sucks! The service manual does not have a wiring diagram to trace.
Under a load? If the rear wheels are turning, there should be your load.
Doubt a ground problem there, that side just supplies the voltage the ground is made on the other side (when the criteria is met) to complete the engagement!
So at the moment, you've bypassed the switch and have jumped the coil straight from the battery?
Hmm, but the switch is good (with a solid 12v), the connector good (you’ve replaced it).......so your thinking if the jumper works then it must be the wire itself?
Here you go take a look, hope it helps.....found on PRC.......http://www.atvgraphics.org/Polaris/RZR/MiscPics/WiringDiagram.pdf
 

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stumpduster, thanks for the diagram. I'll be tracing it this weekend. I took the RZR out today, with no front diff. The AWD light was on, but no one was home. thanks again.
 

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I traced wires out today. checked continuity and Ohms. starting with gray wire from switch connector to diff plug, continuity good, Ohm'd 0. next, brn/wht from diff connector to speedo connector, continuity good, Ohm'd 0. next brn from speedo to neutral on batt, continuity good, Ohm'd 0. This leads me to believe that something in my speedo is bad, causing fluctuating voltage. oh yeah, I checked the switch again, continuity good, ohm'd at 0.1.
 

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I did some more testing. I ran a jumper from the brn to the brn/wht on the connector going to the speedo and the diff energized when I flipped the switch. This leads me to believe that the speedo has a bad circuit. The speedo (RPMs) control when the front diff can be engaged. According to the SM it will not engage unless it is under 3100RPMs. I'll need to test it with another speedo (my brothers RZR) to be sure.
 

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You should check this new billet cage out from Holz Racing Products.

The Holz Racing Products Billet Roller Cage for the RZR/RZR-S front diff is machined to precise tolerances from aerospace grade aluminum that has been treated with military spec hard coat anodizing for better wear and lubricity which equals longer life and better operation. This is the only aftermarket billet roller cage available that is pre-assembled with new rollers and springs.

The stock unit is made from injection molded plastic and is prone to failure even under normal conditions.

The Competition?
The Holz billet roller cage has twice the tensile strength of the competitors 6061-T6 aluminum cages. With some competitors aftermarket cages, there can be some confusion with the proper orientation of parts when trying to assemble the cage using the stock rollers and springs. Reusing the factory springs is not recommended as this will stress the springs and make them weaker. Having new springs and rollers pre-installed, like on the Holz billet cage, eliminates any of these problems and makes the install nearly impossible to mess up.

The Holz billet roller cage comes with a 2-year part replacement warranty.

Retail $399


ATV || Holz Racing Products
 

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And if you are going to do it, I would do this at the same time.

RZR / RZR-S Billet Pinion Flange,
front diff
$49.95




Avoid potential disaster with our Billet Pinion Flange.
The weaker material on the O.E. part is very susceptible to damage causing it to crack or even break under heavy loads.
To be used on the front differential of your RZR
-Made from CNC machined Billet aluminum
-Comes with new O-ring and oil seal
-Anodized blue

Model: 613016
Shipping Weight: 1lbs


http://www.holzracingproducts.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_52&products_id=769
 

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OWENS,

Thanks for the recommendation, I run some Holz Products now and they are of excellent quality. I still need to test to make sure there are no problems with the cage. Initially that is what I thought the problem was, until I discovered my voltage fluctuating at the diff connector. I looked at the DFR cage, is it not made at the same place?
 

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sf-rzr

I just got the Holz Racing Products billet cage yesterday.


I like military spec hard coat anodizing.

Aerospace grade aluminum.

Pre-assembled with new rollers and springs.

2-year part replacement warranty.

I don't think they are made at the same place.
I will call Holz to find out. They are at Moab this week, so next monday.


But the same price as DFR and you get rollers, h-springs, assembled, anodizing, install tube.
 

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I just bought a new complete front diff for $820.00 and bolted it in, save me a lot of headaches. Why put some old parts with some new parts and hope it works. you have to
check around for the best price, some dealers want to rip you off for $1600.00 for a new front diff.
 

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Shredder

You got a good price. Polaris retail on #2203735 is $906.25

I'am a Polaris dealer in washington state and there is not much profit in that part.

And buying a complete new diff, if you new a complete new one still gets you the weak plastic cage.
 

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The Holz Racing Products Billet Roller Cage for the RZR/RZR-S front diff is machined to precise tolerances from aerospace grade aluminum that has been treated with military spec hard coat anodizing for better wear and lubricity which equals longer life and better operation. This is the only aftermarket billet roller cage available that is pre-assembled with new rollers and springs.
This was a quote from I believe, a Hilliard Rep. It was about a year ago, on a different forum, referencing the Dragonfire Aluminum cage. There were so many Polaris owners complaining about the week plastic cage, that I was planning to buy one, when/if, I blew the frontend.

Let me start by stating the design intent of the roll cage itself. The main purpose of the roll cage in the front drive is to provide uniform spring tension on the 14 (old style) or 20 (new style) clutch rolls to keep them centered in their respective pockets in the ring gear clutch profile. They are prone to failure only if the clutch rolls exceed the designed torque capacity of the clutch mechanism. When the torque is excessive, the rolls are pinched out of the pockets and thrust back into the roll cage. Obviously, the Amodel cage is the weak link in this occurance.
Now, the aluminum cage shown in the link above is not an approved Hilliard replacement to the stock Amodel cage and most likely will void the Polaris warranty. The cage shown in the link does not appear to be hard anodized - The lack of hard anodizing will allow the rolls to impact against the inner pockets and over time deform the cage and or spring pockets. This would lead to either chips of aluminum floating around in the differential or lack of proper spring force on the rolls leading to unwanted engagements at high speeds. I do not have any additional comments on the cage shown above - if it is hard anodized then it will be an improvement over the stock Amodel cage. If not, again, buyer beware!
I never had to purchase one, but that statement stuck with me. I will say, I haven't heard anyone complain about Dragonfires replacement, so I'm not trying to start anything.
I'm glad to see that Holz realized this too, and went the extra steps to produce another quality product.

Brian
 

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The earlier post, I was referring to the switch light. The AWD icon is present when the switch is on and not when its off. I spoke with the shop today and they said they would warranty the speedo, under my extended warranty service that I purchased. I hope to see it within a few weeks.
 
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