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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, so after hours of searching only to find others with the same problem and no solutions, I dug deeper into my front diff. I'll post what I've learned. If there is a mistake, please correct me. If there is other info, please add it.

I already blown up the stock plastic cage and replaced it with billet aluminum part. I was still having AWD engage while in 2WD. I completely unplugged the AWD at the front diff. It still locked into AWD. Cluncked REALLY hard too.

I pulled it apart to really understand how it worked. I leared that when the switch is activated and the coil is magnetized, it pulls the armature plate agianst the cover plate causing friction between the armature plate and the cover plate. Because the armature plate "slows" with the friction between the two, the ring gear rotates around the cage and causes the roler bearings to push inward and lock agianst the output hubs. This ultimately turns the front wheels.

Now because I already rebuilt mine with new parts and I was still having problems in the 2WD mode, I tore it all apart again. I found two problems that are cuasing what you may have experienced:

FIRST: the H-springs were damaged and did not push outward on the bearings in the factory cage. This would intermitantly allow the bearings to "fall" inward and the ring gear rotate into the AWD position. Its just plain physics. IT IS NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE H-SPRINGS WHEN REBUILDING.

SECOND: the grove on the inside of the billet cage has a tolerance that is too tight. This is where the h-spring rests. When the bearing is pushed in by the ring gear, it smashes the h-springs into a grove. The aluminum is so tight that the springs cannot retun and push the bearing back out. This allows the bearigs to again "fall" inward, causing the ring gear to rotate and act like its in intermittant AWD.

Tommorrow, I'm contacting the manufacturer of the cage and see what they can do. I'll post details later, but as I feel they can fix this, I won't flame the company...yet.

I'll post picture of the springs jammed into the groove that has been cut for them. Its obvious when compared to the stock cage how tight the billet cage is.

Updated

PHOTO CONTEST - Ugliest plastic cage???

Notice in the 3rd photo of the plastic piece sitting to the billet cage, this is how the spring should look. Its not smashed into the caged (Granted there is nothing left)
 

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I leared that when the switch is activated and the coil (5) is magnetized, it pulls the armature plate (20) agianst the cover plate (3) causing friction between the armature plate and the cover plate. Because the armature plate "slows" with the friction between the two, the ring gear (22) rotates around the cage (25) and causes the roler bearings (23) to push inward and lock agianst the output hubs (10, 15). This ultimately turns the front wheels.


Pictures will really make this the Ultimate Front Diff Thread. :ride:
 
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Good solid info and awesome with the pic. I put the aluminiunm cage in and reused my H springs. Its been in for a year now and I've used the 4wd alot and have been pretty hard on it. I haven't had any problems. Anybody else had problems with th Al cage?
 

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I have a couple questions to try to better understand how the Hilliard works.
Is the armature attached to the cage?
Are the grooves inside the housing (ring gear) actually ramps?

If both are "yes" then I think I get it. The armature drags and twists the cage and the rollers are forced by the ramps to cam down into the hubs & grab.

I hope this is right or I'm just muddying the water more...LOL
 

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mack90
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anyone every break the armature plate mine broke 400 miles 2 months old anyone have an after market replacement
 

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Re: Ultimate Front Diff Thread - Pics added

PHOTO CONTEST - Ugliest plastic cage???

Notice in the 3rd photo of the plastic piece sitting to the billet cage, this is how the spring should look. Its not smashed into the caged (Granted there is nothing left)



Wow--you almost didn't have a chunk big enough to show us the fit!
 

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good write up man!
 

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There is A huge market for aftermarket front and rear diffs.There are several problems with both of them.They are not strong enough for the extreme riders.Someone needs to capitalize on it
 

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Good solid info and awesome with the pic. I put the aluminiunm cage in and reused my H springs. Its been in for a year now and I've used the 4wd alot and have been pretty hard on it. I haven't had any problems. Anybody else had problems with th Al cage?
I too have the aluminum cage and love it. I ride trails very hard and have had no issuse with it. I don't care what others may say, the plastic Polaris POS is only good for 1 thing and that's the dumpster!:rocket1:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glad to see that everyone is adding info and feedback.

I have to tell everyone that I am having trouble with Dragon Fire Racing. For three days, they have not returned my calls as they said they would. They've had my cage for a while now and I've not heard anything from them. We'll see if they come through.
 

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I still cannot get my awd to engage. how can i tell if its a front diff issue? i have full fluid in it, no noises at all. It seems to be receiving power. I just dont know where to turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What do you mean when you say that it "seems" to be getting power.

First, check to see that the front diff is getting power. Use a multimeter to check leads from the engine. If its getting more that 8 volts, then you need to move to the diff. If its less than 8 volts, its something with the switch, computer or wiring.

If you have at least 8 volts, then you need to check the ohms on the diff pigtail. I am sorry that I can't remember what the range is exactly, but I think that its 22-27 ohms. SOMEONE CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG. If you've got the ohms an issue inside the differential. It could be the armature plate or the cage. You'll have to open it up and have a look. If you don't have the ohms, it should be the coil inside the armature plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, Dragon Fire Racing came through for me. They got me a new cage and seemed to have fixed the issues. I put all new springs in the new cage and reused the old bearings.

Worked flawlessly. I was nice for a bit, then beat on it just for fun.
 

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Need some advise.. Out riding this weekend and noticed that the 4x4 was not kicking in. Light comes on with the switch and on the speedo showing 4x4. When riding it will engage when it feels like it, even if it's still switched to 2WD. I don't have any clunking noise or any noise for that matter that is unusual. I have had the RZR for 18 months riding it pretty hard, mostly on the dunes. I noticed that some post were talking about using the wrong drive fluid. I did just change fluid before this ride, but I beleive I used the Polaris LT fluid that is recommended.

My first thought was that it was electrical but put the volt meter on both sides of the switch and its all good.

If it is the cage, how long does the rebuild take if doing it myself?

Thanks
 
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