Let me know how this works as I could not make it work because if you look at the international wiring diagram this relay is also wired into the ECM and I wired mine as the print shows and it would not work and so did Dennis 34 FORD. I also had the three position dash switch from Polaris, so let us know how you make out.

 

Bill

I just got done with the final install and road test ( I know I know I shouldn’t post up a solution to a problem until the road test is complete but) it worked like a champ.

Thanks for sending the diff install paper work but I ended up having the dealer do the install of the diff and axel.

I ordered the diff and axel from Babbitts and had them shipped straight to my Polaris dealer.

I figured if they did the install they are on the hook if anything goes wrong or doesn’t work.

This is one of the best mods I have done to date, the ease of moving around my shop and loading on to the trailer and driving on pavement is like night and day.

If you order the part I listed above and wire as described it should work great .

PM with your number if you need any more info.

 

If any of you guys are looking for a rear international diff with a international trans. I have one. New, will sale for dealer cost.

Josh

 

This is really interesting because when I applied power to the relay (12v) I got (12v) on the output and the solenoid says do not apply 12v longer that 1 second or it will burn the solenoid up. Then I sent the relay and 3 position switch to Dennis and he couldn't get it to work either ! ! ! Very INTERESTING

 

Scooty I finally wired up my 3 position switch and it works great!

This shows the rear diff unlocked

This shows the rear diff locked

This shows the rig is in 4wd ... Note the 4x4 on the speedo

 

Hey guys, I have an international here in uk, and because I have put a weber in, I had to rewire the soliniode, our wiring takes the ground back through the ecu, I previously wired it as your idea, but it got real hot, and burnt out... I think the ecu restrics voltage.. Also the ecu dose not let you lock up for 40 after ign on, and controls voltage draw. I will see what peg on ecu connector it's wired to, let u know.

 

Is a crying shame they dont offer this standard on the US models. Pitiful job Polaris. I would buy another if they had the turf mode. I drive my Sportsman X2 in my yard alot with a trailer using its turf mode. I cant stand to get the RZR anywhere near my grass!

 

Did the relay in picture #2 come with the solenoid that screws into the diff?
If I'm reading your post correctly, when the switch is open (continuity, the solenoid is getting 12V (pulled).
When you close the switch, the solenoid gets 3-4V and (pushes) activating the turf mode?

PS On a 2 pole switch, there is no "on" or "off" pole (connection). You can hook up either wire to either. Just an FYI

 

The relay was bought after the diff was put in. The diff came with the solenoid in place. There are no volts with the switch off, when switched on it goes from 12v to 3v.

My switch came with the poles marked "on" and "off"

 

I was also wondering about the solenoid, the white paper tag looks different.

 

I just got back from a 10 mile ride, all on road.

After about 3 miles I got out to check the solenoid, it was hot to the touch, but than it is right under the muffler.

I engaged and disengaged the diff a few times.

So far all is well.

One thing I am not sure of , can the turf mode be switched on the fly?

 

here you go guys...

(hope this has attached)
this is the EU wiring diagram for the rzr s turf diff, hope it helps?

andy

 

dmax, you will burn the soliniode or reck the diff!! i have allready done one, ouch! if its wired correctly, it doser not get hot!!
You basically have to much V going through it. my volts drop from 12v to about 11.2v, to throw the soliniode, then the ecu backs of the volts, and my sytanding count returns to 11.9v... when its engaged, it takes only 0.1v to hold the diff in turm mode... be carefull though the diff is not as strong when in turf mode.

 

yes you can engage on the fly, but you need to coast for it to pop in and out...

 

There is something different inside of the international ECU called a PWM "pulse width modulator", what this does is allow a full 12v to engage the solenoid then in less than 1 second the PWM kicks in and reduces the current by about 70% which is what is needed to hold the solenoid in. I wired my relay into the ECU as in the print and it would not work so there is something missing and I called Polaris and they won't even talk to you so I gave up and operate the solenoid manually with a choke cable which works fine.

 

I have a video that shows my relay set up before I did the final wiring.

In the video I refer to the relay as a voltage regulator.

The video shows when I turn on the switch that the voltage drops to 4.2v

But I guess I don't know how to attach videos, I uploaded it to photobucket, the same as I do for pictures but no luck.

Any ideas?

 

Does your "relay" have a sticker or anything on it?
It cant just be a relay if it has 4 volts coming out.

 

No sticker. My invoice calls it a solenoid relay thats all I know.
The relay is shown below

 

I will try the video again.
Remember when I refer to the voltage reulator it is the solenoid relay I am talking about.

 

I believe what you are seeing is the voltage drop accrossed the solenoid, if you disconnect the relay from the solenoid and energize it how many volts do you have on the output side of the relay if it's 12V and the solenoid is getting hot as you said it is the solenoid sucking the voltage down to 4.2V KEEP US POSTED ? ? ?

 

Thats exactly what I was getting at Scotty. I wanted to see if internally that relay is putting out 4V somehow or the resistance of the solenoid is dropping the voltage. DMax, think you can unhook the solenoid and check the voltage coming out of the relay as Scotty asked? I'm sure its gonna be 12V....If the solenoid is really getting that hot, something isn't right..........it wont last long as I think Scotty already found out.

 

Just an update, it has been a month and I have over 100 miles with the turf mode engaged.
All seems to be working fine.
How long did it take to burn out the solenoid?

 

Just an update, I just completed the 4800 mile ride with the turf mode engaged 95% of the time.
All seems to be working fine.

 

Any one doing this mod or any one needing a solenoid I have one for sale it is new in the package

 

Just a yearly up date:
After 6500 miles things are still going strong.
I thought i was having a problem after a three day rock crawl on the Dusy trail two weeks ago.

I normaly run with the diff unlocked, the only time I lock it up is when I go in to four wheel drive.

Well the other weekend I was locked up in four wheel drive the whole time.
When I got back to the trailer I went to unlock to load up and it would not unlock.

After hours of trouble shooting, I thought for sure it was the solenoid or relay, it turns out it was the other end, the switch was bad.
Replaced and all is well.

I did check the switch plug wire first, thinking that after 3 days of bouncing around something may have come loose.

 

Turf Mode, hmmm, I just took my 2112 LE in for it's first service, a friend went with and wound up buying a 500 Ranger, I was impressed that it had a three way system, maybe they've had it all along? Anyway I just heard from a friend this morning that the new 2113 RZR 800 was available with this system, I've checked and see nothing in the specs about having it? Do any of you know if it's available in the new 800 models and if so is there a conversion we could get other than a aftermarket?

Thanks' Larry M

 

Larry

The turf mode (unlocking rear diff) mod that we are doing is using OEM parts right from Polaris.

All of the RZR's they ship over seas have the turf mode diff already installed as standard equipment.

There is a write up some where on this forum that details the parts needed and install instructions.
I had my dealer do the install and I did the wiring.

This mod has been one of the best that I have done so far.

 

You have this wrong

I hate to say it but, You guys are off-track on the wiring for the differential.

-You do NOT need the Polaris relay.
-You must have a "solenoid driver" in the circuit. Else the solenoid will overheat and die very quickly.

This is explained at the following LINK.

Here is the info on the solenoid:
The solenoid requires you initially engage it with a full 12v. Then the power must be dropped back substantially to HOLD the solenoid without it overheating. At a full 12v, it will fail very soon.

You can do this with a solenoid Driver. This circuit engages at 12v, then uses a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) to reduce the current to the Solenoid. Its actually quite easy because you can buy the Solenoid Driver as a unit.

Its all in my write-up at the Link above.

 

Re: You have this wrong

I hate to say it but, You guys are off-track on the wiring for the differential.

-You do NOT need the Polaris relay.
-You must have a "solenoid driver" in the circuit. Else the solenoid will overheat and die very quickly.

This is explained at the following LINK.

Here is the info on the solenoid:
The solenoid requires you initially engage it with a full 12v. Then the power must be dropped back substantially to HOLD the solenoid without it overheating. At a full 12v, it will fail very soon.

You can do this with a solenoid Driver. This circuit engages at 12v, then uses a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) to reduce the current to the Solenoid. Its actually quite easy because you can buy the Solenoid Driver as a unit.

Its all in my write-up at the Link above.

Did you read this whole thread?

If so please explain how I am off track.

I have had my system hooked up for over 6,000 miles and it is working perfect.

I have just added the three way switch which will prevent me from from switching into 4wd before locking the rear diff.

 

If you look back at my first post I explained the PWM which I believe is contained within the ECM on turf mode machines and the people that I spoke with at Polaris would not talk about it so I gave up and went with a manual solenoid control. I read your write-up and you did a good job of researching this, have you actually installed this setup on your machine ??? Thanks for the information I'm definitely going to give it a try ! ! !

 

Yes, Scooty - I completed the project. I refer you to the remainder of that thread - it tells the story.

Polaris treats this information like a state secret. But with forum help and lots of perseverance, I figured it all out.

For the XP, this is a very straightforward mod. For the RZR, I guess you have to modify the axle too. I have a link to that discussion in the thread. They talk about it at length.

As for the Solenoid control --- Problem Solved !

-curt

 

Yes, Scooty - I completed the project. I refer you to the remainder of that thread - it tells the story.
Polaris treats this information like a state secret. But with forum help and lots of perseverance, I figured it all out.
For the XP, this is a very straightforward mod. For the RZR, I guess you have to modify the axle too. I have a link to that discussion in the thread. They talk about it at length.
As for the Solenoid control --- Problem Solved !
-curt

Curt,

The link to PDF in ATV forum dead ends.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxVh9jNlK77NYjVDaklZSVp6M1k/view?usp=sharing )

I am interested in your solution for the "Solenoid Control". Sounds like you may have found a X2 solid state relay option.
Could you point me to a model and year of X2 that may work?

 

CURT,
I changed the differential in mine right after I bought it, if you look at the international model RZR it comes with the turf mode diff. that is where I got the part # and yes I did have to shorten one axle which was no big deal as I have a friend that is a machinist. Tome this turf mode rear end is a no brainer like you said on grass or pavement you need it. I also did the EPS which is nice but not completely necessary however I have a 66" plow on it in the winter and the EPS is nice. THANKS AGAIN for your research as well as part numbers. BILL