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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So just raised the front tires on my rhino ramps + the slope of my driveway and cracked the bleeder screw. Heard a hiss then closed it back up. Turned the car around cracked the bleeder again and didn't hear anything. Started it up and let it idle for a few minutes, got to 180° then it would cool back to 174° (no fan) then it would go back to 180°then back to 174°. Does that sound normal?

Also forgive my ignorance but seems like there was just a tiny bit of air in the system, will that little bit of air really hinder the car that much?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just took it for a spin on the street. All seemed well, couldn't even get it to hit 200°. I guess my last question would be did I compromise the coolant by letting it get to 250° + and should I change it?
 

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I bet you just had an air pocket and weren’t getting good coolant flow. If it is not running hot anymore you should be good to go. Just make sure you have plenty of coolant in the overflow so it can pull that back in if a little air is in the radiator as well.
Hit the trail with confidence.
 

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So just raised the front tires on my rhino ramps + the slope of my driveway and cracked the bleeder screw. Heard a hiss then closed it back up. Turned the car around cracked the bleeder again and didn't hear anything. Started it up and let it idle for a few minutes, got to 180° then it would cool back to 174° (no fan) then it would go back to 180°then back to 174°. Does that sound normal?

Also forgive my ignorance but seems like there was just a tiny bit of air in the system, will that little bit of air really hinder the car that much?
Seems like the t-stat is working OK to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So got to take the car out to Amargosa "big dune" here in Nevada. Got up to 95° outside and the car got to 216° with 0 issues. I always let it cool for 30-60 seconds before shutting it off to level the temp out and all I can say is I don't know why it took me so long to switch from my YXZ. The Turbo S is an animal. Best ride ive ever had or ridden in.

This leads me to my next question even though I'm not having any issues is there any way to reduce temps a bit more? Any aftermarket fans or anything?
 

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I’m trying to decide if I want to do a fan override or get a tune to have the fan come on quicker. A tune will turn the fan on at a lower temperature and keep it running longer till it cools down more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I’m trying to decide if I want to do a fan override or get a tune to have the fan come on quicker. A tune will turn the fan on at a lower temperature and keep it running longer till it cools down more.
I don't think i want the tune, I think that would void my warranty.
 

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Replacing your factory muffler will help everything run cooler. The catalytic converter is inside the stock muffler, and it really chokes up the flow and bottles up the heat.
My father and I were on a night ride at the dunes a few weeks ago. It wasn’t a very fast ride and we weren’t pushing the machines at all. Maybe averaging 25-30 mph. We stopped to BS for a while, but we both always let our engines idle for about a minute before we shut them off. When we got out of the cars, I noticed his turbocharger glowing bright orange. I walked back to take a look at mine, and it was not glowing any at all. His is a stock 2016 XPT 2 seater, mine is a 21 S 4 seater with AA stage 2 tune and Trinity Stage 5 mufflers. Also, my coolant temps have yet to break 205, even when duning hard. I tuned it before I ever hauled it out to ride anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Replacing your factory muffler will help everything run cooler. The catalytic converter is inside the stock muffler, and it really chokes up the flow and bottles up the heat.
My father and I were on a night ride at the dunes a few weeks ago. It wasn’t a very fast ride and we weren’t pushing the machines at all. Maybe averaging 25-30 mph. We stopped to BS for a while, but we both always let our engines idle for about a minute before we shut them off. When we got out of the cars, I noticed his turbocharger glowing bright orange. I walked back to take a look at mine, and it was not glowing any at all. His is a stock 2016 XPT 2 seater, mine is a 21 S 4 seater with AA stage 2 tune and Trinity Stage 5 mufflers. Also, my coolant temps have yet to break 205, even when duning hard. I tuned it before I ever hauled it out to ride anywhere.
This is very interesting to me 🤔. I never wanted to get an exhaust but this may have changed my mind.
 

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FYI exhaust does not cause the engine to overheat.
I would have to agree with respectful stipulation on this particular instance.

Exhaust does not directly affect your coolant temperatures. With or without a cat in the way.

Exhaust DOES affect (in the case of turbo RZRs) the ability of your engine to effectively move air into and out of itself in a manner that creates conditions suitable for acceptable coolant temperatures. A stock muffler with the cat included chokes up the flow, which bottles up heat.

Excessive coolant temperatures on these machines can have a wide array of culprits.

Air pockets in the cooling system, blocked/dirty radiator, high load low speed conditions, to name a few.

I’m no expert on any of these conditions because I keep my machines clean enough to be parked in a hospital, full of clean, air bubble free coolant, and I do not subject them to high loads at low speed because my riding areas do not pose those conditions.

My intent on bringing to light this condition of flow blockage that the stock muffler creates is just another theory or suggestion as to what might be aiding the machine in running a bit warmer than the OP would like to see.

I’m definitely not an exhaust salesman, although I have owned a lot of machines and installed a LOT of aftermarket exhausts on every one of them. Cat in muffler or not, a stock muffler is choked up.

He asked for ideas about making the machine run cooler... your two main sources of decreasing coolant temps here (after verifying that the radiator is clean, thermostat is operational, and system is free of air pockets) are an aftermarket exhaust, and installing a tune that lowers the fan on/off temperatures.

He’s stated that he does not wish to install a tune, so I’m simply trying to put the one other option out there.

Based only on my experience with these machines, directly. I’ve bought and paid for a lot of them. Cared for each of them the same way. Added the same aftermarket parts to them. And had similar results from them at the end of the day.
 

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The machine should not overheat to the extent of breaking 220+ coolant temps unless being pushed extremely hard at low speed during high load operation. Or possibly a long duration high speed run in soft sand. Otherwise, at 220 I’m backing out of it. At 230, I’m figuring out which direction the wind is out of, pointing the nose that way, and parking. Ready to use my right foot to elevate idle to about 1500-2000 to continue moving coolant through the system.
Anything over 240, I’m pricing head gaskets on Rocky Mountain’s website. Just my full 2 cents. I’ve never seen a rzr (or can am, yes, I’ve been to that dark side) coolant temp above 215.
 

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My 2¢

Did a cat delete on mine - glad I did.

Previously, I'd see 212°+- and then it would drop down right away when I backed off. That was on a 80-85° day when running long and hard.

Last trip it was 102° ambient in the heat of the day for a couple of hours and the most I saw was 194° on the dash - most of the time it was less. Riding conditions and speeds were comparable and I did not back off.

I'm a believer that a cat delete allows for better engine cooling because the engine isn't working against the back pressure of the cat.

YMMV
 

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As a follow up:

Just got back from Glamis today. Yesterday, deep out in the dunes in the heat of the day, it was 90° according to my Ride Command display. It felt like it.

We were is some tough dunes - short small bowls, lots of tight turns, lots of drop offs & bushes, couldn't get up to speed - very slow going - lots of hard pulling. EXTREMELY soft sand with a general uphill direction. You get the idea.

Buddy got stuck (Can Am - LOL). I saw 205 for a second when breaking him loose, 203 for a bit, then it dropped to 194, then 180-195 or so once we were able to move a little faster. Pretty much that all weekend.

I never backed off once and had my foot in it most of the time.
 

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Ready to use my right foot to elevate idle to about 1500-2000 to continue moving coolant through the system.
Aren't these water pumps electric? So there is no need to raise rpm, correct?

My question: is it better in an overheating situation to let it idle (to maintain coolant flow) or just turn off (to prevent introducing additional heat)?

I have not seen my 19 Turbo S 2 go over 203F, but always trying to learn best practices.

Since I think they are electric, would be "cool" if there was a way to force the fan and pump to run while engine was off...
 

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Always let it idle, especially with a turbo. It may climb a little at first but will begin to come down. If you shut it off the temp will spike big.
 

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The water pumps on these machines are not electric. They’re a mechanical water pump, driven off the engine.
F3B0AC96-5F3A-4976-A35F-DFFF25F2466C.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
As a follow up:

Just got back from Glamis today. Yesterday, deep out in the dunes in the heat of the day, it was 90° according to my Ride Command display. It felt like it.

We were is some tough dunes - short small bowls, lots of tight turns, lots of drop offs & bushes, couldn't get up to speed - very slow going - lots of hard pulling. EXTREMELY soft sand with a general uphill direction. You get the idea.

Buddy got stuck (Can Am - LOL). I saw 205 for a second when breaking him loose, 203 for a bit, then it dropped to 194, then 180-195 or so once we were able to move a little faster. Pretty much that all weekend.

I never backed off once and had my foot in it most of the time.
If I get a full exhaust this will delete the cat correct?
 
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