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Turbo Clutch Offset / Parallelism?

8.1K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  Dstew619  
#1 ·
I've been dealing with some belt life issues on my 2017.....

I have the AA clutch kit, tried a few different belts (OE, Gates, GBoost) and even have the Desertcraft blower (belts all washed/broke in).
Run mainly in the dunes with Desert Trak 1450s. AA weights are 3.2.1 and RPM is spot on at 8550.

I've checked the primary / secondary center to center distance from one another and it was long by 1.5mm. I wasn't sure that was enough to be causing issues but I fixed that by loosening the bolts that hold clutch/engine together and wedging the trans until the Holz tool fit. But I'm still having heat issues which leads me to believe it's an offset/parallel issue.

I've watched a ton of snowmobile clutch alignment videos and it seems fairly straight forward to "shim" the secondary for the correct offset so the belt is riding straight. However, I haven't been able to find the correct offset measurement from the fixed primary sheave to the fixed secondary sheave. This seems to be the key measurement. If anyone knows, please feel free to chime in ;)

I've read these posts filled with good info and I have a pretty good idea of how to measure, again just looking for what the spec should be.

http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri.../engine-drivetrain/469193-clutch-discussion-causes-heat-belt-failures-long.html
http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-tur...-200-mile-belt-life-2016-xpt-what-expect-what-can-i-do-about-2.html#post4515985

I just want to drive the Turbo like I drove my XP1K!
 
#2 · (Edited)
I have gone down this path... I had a clutch kit, stage 3 tune, exhaust, intake, charge tube, 2 different blowers installed running at the same time, I still blew belts also had razorback belt temp gauge. I was always running hot as far as belt temp. Drove me crazy, I couldn't drive the way I wanted too. I made sure my alignment was good, it was. Regardless, you can't adjust the alignment on the Turbo. They simply just go together and can't be adjusted like the XP1K.

The main cause of the problem is power increase over stock. Simply put the stock clutches are basically deisgned at their max capabilites for the stock power, when you increase that you exceed the true capabilities of the clutch and there is now increased friction and heat.

The fix after I tried everything and probably wasted some $1000 on various blowers, belts, and clutch kits.... was Airdam clutches. Their complete race clutch setup that most all baja 1000 racers run. I talked to Adam the owner and he told me on our first call. I can fix your problem, I have the only true and proven solution. I talked myself into the cost very easily in that every damn belt was costing me some $150 and lost time riding, time installing, etc.

Well now my belt temp runs on average 50 degrees less than what it was with all the crap components I installed. I run longer, far harder and never hit 210, where as before i'd be up to 220 in minutes, 240 was the breaking point normally. Also run OEM belts, Airdam's race teams tested them all and have said OEM is the best belt you can run.

It by far is the best thing i've done to my rzr and I just wish I never wasted so much money in the beginning on crap solutions that never helped.

You can read more as I posted a review here: http://www.rzrforums.net/off-topic/481473-airdam-clutches-win.html

Email Adam of airdam he can answer all, no one and I mean no one knows these clutches like him: adam@airdamclutches.com
 
#3 ·
@Dstew619 Thanks for the reply. I've read a bit about Airdam on some of the threads and it seems like a definite solution.

My issue is that I'm 100% stock in terms of power so I would think I could dial in the stock clutches. I want to turn the power up, but I'm afraid to. At a certain point, it does make sense to bite the bullet and go with the aftermarket solution. I'm about to that point, as I am developing a disdain for the machine because I can't drive it like I want to.
 
#18 ·
Airdam uses the STM secondary, therefore it uses the STM spacers with the stock cover. Meaning it doesn't fit with the stock cover without the spacers and new (thicker) gasket. The spacers are pretty thin under a 1/4 inch, so it really isn't that much of a difference.
 
#17 ·
I believe Airdams fits under the cover.

Some people say that STM’s primary needs to be rebuilt every 500 miles. Some say they don’t.

Their secondary seems to last pretty good. It has replaceable parts just like stock.
 
#22 ·
I have an AIRDAM clutch kit for sale if anyone is interested, his "stage1" kit, has maybe about 500mi. on it only.

Comes with the Billet Primary Hat, Adjustable weights, Primary and Secondary Springs. This version of his kit is made to work with the stock secondary clutch.

350$ shipped
 
#25 ·
Got it in december 17, for my XP4 17 Turbo. The spacers come with the stm secondary. I tried installing without the spacers and cover slightly rubbed on secondary, not on primary. Installed spacers with thicker gasket and no issues.