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Discussion Starter #1
What exactly is done to a stock clutch during a tune or adjustment? I hear people claiming that they can dramatically improve the stock clutch.

Any Pros or Cons from anyone who has had the stock clutch worked on?

Also how would it compare to a kit like the DDP
 

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No real way to tune or adjust a rzr clutch except to change out its parts,changing things such as primary or secondary springs, helix angles or change the primary weights to heavier, lighter or ones with different angles or adjustable ones where you can adjust to try many different weight options, any of these changes will change how a clutch operates. The clutch kits sold are just components put together buy companies and tested to give a desired result.
 

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you can buy adjustable weights and tune it. still have to swap springs though.
 

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I think people and I said it before as well, mean tuning the stock clutch involves actually changing the fly weights, primary/secondary springs, helix ... on your machine, test, change and retest until satisfied.

I believe this does give a better result then buying a preset clutch kit from one of the venders. There are many variables and the venders have to compromise. If you do it yourself or work with someone that is doing it you can get exactly what you want.

This is take a lot of time, a lot of data collection and maybe a lot more money then a kit will cost you, but it will make a difference.

I spent less than a clutch kit on mine and I don't think that the performance could be better. I got advice from people that had experience, took my time and collected pages of data. I also know people that race rzr's and they let me use their old kits and kits that didn't work for them to mix and match until I found what worked for me.

My clutch engages at 2,000-2,100 and goes right to 6,020 -6040 rpm from a stop and stays there until it fully shifts out then climbs to the rev limiter. 63 mph at 6,300 rpm showing on the tach/speedo. No engine mods or controllers. This is a stock 08 and I can out drag any of my friends RZRs and RZR-S with their pipes, clutch kits and fuel controllers. The power is in the clutch tuning not bolt on parts.

Don't ask what parts I used. I'm racing it and don't want others to know the secret. Only 2 people know, we discussed some things so I kept them up to date.
 

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I used a 3/4 spacer made from PVC pipe that is the same diameter of the primary clutch spring and placed it in to compress the stock primary clutch spring. Bike does exactly what yours does... From a dead stop revs to 6000 and stays there.. Pulls so much harder down low now. Mine is 2011 though.
 

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Does anyone know if there is a website that explains these clutches, so we could understand how to adjust them to better fit our riding style? I would love to learn how to purchase my own helix, springs and weights, and make something work for me rather than buying an off the shelf kit that is suppose to work for everyone.
 

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PETE:
You said "My clutch engages at 2,000-2,100 and goes right to 6,020 -6040 rpm from a stop and stays there until it fully shifts out " mine hits 6200 - 6250 rpm from a stop and stays there until it fully shifts out Am I losing a lot with these extra 200 or so rpm
 

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PETE:
You said "My clutch engages at 2,000-2,100 and goes right to 6,020 -6040 rpm from a stop and stays there until it fully shifts out " mine hits 6200 - 6250 rpm from a stop and stays there until it fully shifts out Am I losing a lot with these extra 200 or so rpm
I would say that you are loosing a bit of acceleration at 6200 compaired to 6000. Mine was definitely slower to accelerate at those rpms. Most people have found around 6,000 rpm is best. I got about 6200-6300 rpm by using a RZR-S primary spring with the stock 62 weights, it sounded and seemed to run well but was very slow when you got the stop watch out.

My time charts are at my cousins house that show acceleration at various RPM. Give me some time to get them. I can show you the difference in distance vs time between 6,000 and 6,200.
 
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