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Family, it's about time
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been asked by a few about my Turbo Specialties kit that I put on my 2010 Rzr4 so I decided to do a little write up about my experience with their kit as well as why I decided to go with their kit.

First off I have been off-roading most of my life. I ride 8 or 9 times in a season at the sand dunes, and my other riding is done in the desert close to my home in Mesa Az and some up in the mountains in northern Az. I bought my first Rzr in 2009 and put about 1500 miles on it in a year, then I sold that and bought a 2010 Rzr4. I love the 4 and had a great time duning it this last season. I have always felt that the Rzr platform was underpowered for my dune use, but it is such a blast to drive that my quad just sits. I like to dune really hard. Although the rzr lacks power to go straight up the race hills it is a great duning machine. I ride with big rails and quads and we know how to run the dunes. I have been thinking about adding some power to the machine since day 1 so that I don't have to run so hard to hang with my buddies. I have seriously considered and studied out every option out there. Initially I was leaning away from turbos because I wanted to be reliable. I nearly pulled the trigger on a Holz stage 3 bb kit. I had figured that that was a good safe amount of power for the conditions I ride. My wife oftens drives the rzr so I had to make sure it was as wife friendly. I would have bought the stage 3, but after reviewing the total cost it would have been close to costing the same as the Big 3 turbo kits. I really had no desire to spend that much even though I could afford it. I finally decided that I wanted either the Bikeman turbo or the Tsi. I've not found hardly any customers reviews of the Bikeman kit out there, so that steered me away a bit. The Tsi kit has had mixed reviews, but after reading and talking to owners and also shops that install these I decided it was the right route for me. The main thing that Scared me about the turbo was I didn't want an unreliable bike or to be constantly tinkering with it. There have been many succesful turbo owners with thousands of reliable miles on the forum with all the kits.

I found a used tsi kit on Craigslist. The guy had installed it but he didnt know it wasn't compatible with a standard Rzr, so he took it off. This kit will only work with an "S" model or Rzr4. This kit is very simple, much more so than all the others I looked at. I did make a few modifications to make it like I wanted, but I would have done the same with almost all the kits on the market. Sorry for the long post- Now to the install.

I began by ordering a 2mm shim and pushrods from Mcx turbos. It lowers the compression to prevent detonating, but the use of pump premium is still needed. The head shim and pushrods cost $110. I removed the entire bed assembly from the Rzr-

(now is a good time to wash the machine)Then removal of the exhaust and intake parts attached to the head. I drained the coolant and took the head off. Note you may need a large breaker bar with a pipe on it to break the head bolts loose. Mine were very hard to break loose. Here is the top of the pistons after about 1300 miles-


I installed the shim after copper coating it (not necessary but I thought it was a good Idea)and then reinstalled the head making sure to torque properly. I then installed the oil fitting on the side of the block and the new dipstick oil return tube. Do these before mounting the turbo and it will be much easier. Next was the turbo. I bought new slightly longer exhaust bolts since the oem ones were a little short since they go through the cast iron manifold. The cast iron manifold is rock solid and I like the fact that it is very durable. I also like the wastegate actuator being so accessible if one decides to adjust the boost level. Here is a shot of the turbo installed.-


Here is where I deviated from the instructions. I didnt want the air filter up in the bed and wanted utilize my UMP intake in its original location. The kit was designed to put the inter-cooler under the bed where the oem filter goes, which I wasn't a fan of. I cut the x cross bar to allow room for piping. Complete performance does that with their kits so I figured it would be fine. You can stand on the cut off section and it barely flexes. In these 3 pictures you can see how I routed the intake to the turbo.-


I then used a couple 90's to hook up the throttle body-


I welded in a bung on the exhaust for the wideband o2 gauge. I bought an aem gauge but there are lots of good ones out there. The gauge came with the bung-


There is a Blow off valve (BOV) included with the kit that I installed right before the throttle body. Then as you can see in the next pictures I mounted my lines to go up to the inter-cooler. I measured the bed to get them close-


I mounted the inter-cooler on the bar behind the seats. I cut 2 short lengths of alum. 3/4 angle and screwed them to the inter-coolerand drilled holes in the angle pieces to line up with the holes on the tube clamps. I bought the clamps from a place that sells sandrail stuff. I think they are made by Empi. They were 12 bucks each.


I hooked up the oil line and return to the turbo, changed the oil and topped off the coolant. I fired it up before I installed the fuel controller just to warm up the engine to purge air from the coolant and to heat cycle it. I then installed the piggyback fuel controller that takes 2 seconds. All you do is unplug the injectors and put the controller inline and then install a ground wire. The controller does need a boost reference. I ran a length of line the the intake where the new intake piece included in the kit has ports for boost and also to hook the BOV to. I was a bit nervous about tuning the motor for the turbo, but it really wasn't very difficult with the 02 sensor. You just watch the gauge and the fuel controller has lights to tell you what range or mode it is in. Then you add fuel to the ranges that run lean. You want around a 12-1 while under boost.

After i got the fueling close I turned to clutching. I called over to Alba Racing. They sell and install the Tsi kits so I knew they could get the clutching close. They sold me the primary and secondary springs and some fixed clutch weights, but they said I could change out the weights for free (you do have to pay the shipping) as many times as needed in order to get it right. I was a little off on the first set and needed a little heavier weight so I called them up and they sent the new ones out right away, even before I sent the others back. My Clutching is real good now thanks to Alba. They were great to work with. Btw if you are interested in a Tsi setup Alba has great prices on them with gauges and clutch kits included.

I took the machine out to the desert for final tuning / testing before I reinstalled the bed just in case I had any leaks or any problems. The only problem was I couldn't stop giggling every time it boosted.

I now have a few hundred miles on this setup running close to 8psi of boost. I have had no issues whatsoever and the new found power has been amazing. I have a riding area I like that I could only get up to 40mph because of the soft deep gravel. Now i can go as fast as I have courage for. I look forward to dune season when it cools off around here. I haven't taken any pictures with it all finished up but I will and update this thread with them.

New Tsi kit-$2600
02 gauge-160
Boost gauge-40
a couple extra silicone elbows-25
Clutch springs and weights-170
Adjustable clutch weights- 150
Larger injectors- 100


There has been many threads on the forum for a moderate turbo setup for about $3000. This set-up does that. This kit uses a Garrett turbo that is very common and is very reliable. If you are looking to sit at the hill all day and race and like spending lots of coin to be the fastest then this kit isn't for you, but If you are like the majority of rzr owners who just want some more reliable power without spending 8k on a turbo bb stroker, then I think you would be very pleased with this kit. I am more than happy with my purchase.
-Paul
 

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Professor
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Do you have a picture of where your bov and boost gauge are connected? I ask this because I have been told from Dobeck (who makes the fuel boxes for TSI and others) not to hook the boost reference line up to any vacuum port.... and to only have it see boost. TSI says to hook it up off the port on that new manifold bolted to the head.... so in this case it reads both vacuum and boost. So I am stumped as to which is better or worse or neither.:question:
 

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Family, it's about time
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Discussion Starter #5
They are hooked to the manifold as they designed it. The bov needs to see that drop from boost to vacuum in order to function properly. Never heard any about the fuel controller not seeing vacuum. I think most turbo kits out there hook it post throttle body like I have it.
 

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great write up.
 

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Professor
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I knew the BOV needs vac and boost to work....

Dobeck told me over the phone not to hook their controller up to a vacuum signal as it may over fuel for the vacuum signal...... like I said it was a little over my head, I just always see them hooked up motor side of throttle plate and wondered why if The maker of the box says not to.:question:
 

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Do you have to run the shim and pushrods? I know it lowers the compression, but what if I run around 6-7 psi for now? Anybody think it would be better to back the timing up also?
 

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Family, it's about time
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Discussion Starter #9
Do you have to run the shim and pushrods? I know it lowers the compression, but what if I run around 6-7 psi for now? Anybody think it would be better to back the timing up also?
If you have a 2008-9 standard rzr you can run the smaller shim that does not require pushrods. The "s" models and all the newer rzrs run the same ho motor with higher compression so you need a larger shim. At 6-7 you don't have to lower compression but it adds a safety factor. Depending on certain riding conditions you may want to run some type of higher octane fuel to prevent detonation if you don't run the shim. With the shim and a proper afr 10psi or under boost you should be fine with pump premium fuel. I run my rzr often in 100+ degrees and did not want to take any chances of detonation.

I would like to hear peoples ideas on timing as well. I don't think all the "big 3" kits change timing.
 

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pretty sure k&t does, they send a dyna with their kit.
 

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I have an 08 standard, I would be riding in 90-100 degree temps sometimes, sand maybe 2-3 times a year, trails and pasture ground the rest. I just figured you could pull a little timing to avoid any detonation? I just want to be as cautious as I can with the crank, until I tear it down completely to get the crank pinned and welded up.
 

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please let polaris release a 900-4 so i don't have to go through this!
 

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Family, it's about time
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Discussion Starter #13
please let polaris release a 900-4 so i don't have to go through this!
Mark I know how you feel. I debated this myself. The way I figured it Polaris has only released their big stuff in January of each year lately. With the xp9 flying out of showrooms as it has my money is on no new model till this January. If that is the case I couldn't get a hold of one till late feb or early march. Dune season for me is winding down at that point. I figured I wanted something now but didn't want to spend 5k on a turbo and not recoup that difference. We will all know this month if it's coming soon. If it gets announced at the end of the month then I'll just ride my current setup through dune season and then sell it and buy a slightly used xp4 900 next year.
 

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Professor
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IMO, good fuel, 11.5 A/F and 6-7psi should be fine on stock motor at sea level. The big thing (IMO) is getting enough fuel through the stock injectors past 8psi with out going lean. IMO, very risky. Atleast get 2 bigger injectors or run a 3rd injector like most kits do. I personally have 2 bigger injectors coming. I also think a turbo ignition map would help. Not needed at 6psi like the kit comes, but would not be money wasted.
 

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agree with all that. but is 6-7 lbs enough for all the trouble and cost? tell me more about the bigger injectors, might see 8lbs safely?
 

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Professor
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6psi should be fine at sea level with stock motor. Good premium fuel and a good A/F is a must IMO. Is it worth it.... yeah I think so.

*I'm no pro at any of this so it's only my trial and error opinion*

Stock injectors (IMO) max out the fueling needed beyond 7psi. I live at 7000ft and up here the air is thinner so we can run about 2psi more boost then sea level guys..... At 7psi the stock injectors seemed to be flowing all they can as far as my A/F was reading.

I've read the stock injectors are 198cc each and I bought 2 310cc each injectors. They will flow more fuel at all throttle openings, not just when on boost.

That is the main argument for or against the 2 vs. 3 injector deals. With 3 injectors your stock 2 injectors flow normal.... low speed and cruise, then when on boost the 3rd injector fires adding fuel to be safe. I've never like where I see the 3rd injector placed.....

With 2 bigger injectors your adding more fuel flow all the time, and as long as you can lean the slow speed and cruise then it's fine, if you can't what happens is you are rich every where and it can be doggy until on boost.

A rising rate regulator is IMO better for turbos, and higher boost levels, but not needed with the base TSI kit. I do plan to get one later on though.
 

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Professor
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I am not sure what size injector comes in these 3rd injector kits that come with these other turbo kits.... I have a theory they are just another stock injector (could be wrong though) and so if 3 stock injectors flow 600cc then 2 310cc = 620cc..... so it may be to rich at cruise, I don't know yet...... but the flow pattern and atomazation of the air and fuel is much better with the stock location of the injectors and so I'd rather do that then place a 3rd injector before the throttle plate. You can modify some throttle bodies for a 3rd injector on motor side, and some other fancy little billet things motor side.... but then IMO you will need supports for all that weight hanging off the motor. IE ripped boots, torn couplers etc...
 

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with programmers you could lean it out a little down low and mid, and turn it up at full throttle, where the boost is.
 

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The one thing I dont like at all is the intercooler mounts behind the drivers seat by the engine. Whats up with that? I will probably move it to the back of the cage like most. I have an 08 standard.
 
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