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Trying to wire LED light bars with no luck.

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7.6K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  Pistol Pete  
#1 ·
Hey guys. I just got two LED light bars for my RZR 1000. I ran the positive and negative wires for both to the junction box under the hood. Power to ACC and Negative to Ground. I tested the small light bar on the bumper with the key on and it worked great. However, when I tried both light bars they worked for about 2 sec and then went out. I've lost all poster to the ACC terminal now. I checked all the fuses under the seat and none are blown. I've got two questions now.
1. How do I fix the ACC terminal not getting power.
2. Can I wire the light bars to the Power terminal under the hood or do they need to be wired directly to the battery?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
You can use the terminal under the hood for 12v power supply and ground, but the accessory/ignition post that you used that works with the key cannot carry the load you are asking of it. If you don't wish to use a switch in the dash to turn on the lights then your best bet is to wire them up with a relay using the power block under the hood.

And as far as losing power to the accessory post, if you can't find a blown fuse then I'd suggest checking the relays.

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#3 ·
X2 account. Post. Is to trigger a relay you need to run power from the battery up to the bus bar then from bus bar to a switch thru a fused link then up to your lights hopefully you dident burn the account line and just blew a fuse
 
#5 ·
I'm sorry but your post is very hard for me to understand. I'm using a harness with switch, fuse and relay. I just made the mistake of hooking the power wire of both harnesses to the ACC terminal. Can I assume I'd be ok hooking both harnesses to the POWER terminal under the hood instead?
What is the account line you refer to and how do I check it? Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm using wiring harnesses for both light bars that include relays and switches. I was just powering the harnesses from the ACC terminal. So I'd be good hooking the harnesses to the power and ground under the hood? As far as checking the relays under the seat, call me stupid (I've already proven it) but how do you check a relay?
 
#6 ·
I'm thinking he probably has a not so smart phone like mine that auto corrected accessory to account.

But yes, your harness should have a fused link (most likely red wire) that you'd hook to the 12v constant post, and then a ground. These will connect to your relay and then from there you should find wires leading up to your switch...If it's illuminated then there will be a 12v supply into the switch, 12v accessory leaving the switch, and also a jumper to power the illumination, and a ground. After that it's pretty much self explanatory.



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#7 ·
Ok, I reconnected the power wires of the harnesses to the power terminal and left the ground wires on the ground terminal. Both LED light bars work. However, the accessory terminal still don't getting power which means the courtesy light above the drink holders and the socket for the winch remote doesn't work. I've checked every fuse under the seat and none of them are blown. I don't know how to check a relay so I could sure use some schooling on that. Thanks for the replies and information!!!
 
#8 ·
Take and switch the relays and see if it works
 
#13 ·
Fwiw, last time I went out in search of a new relay for my canam renegade I couldn't find any actually out in the shelving at the parts house as they were rearranging the store. The guy behind the counter let me go in the back and dig through the boxed up relays to see if I could find what I was looking for... O'Reilly part# R3110 is a BWD 5 pin relay that is the same as the small relays found on my canam renegade, I'm 99% sure the rzr uses the same ones. This one is a little over $20, so if you can find it in the relay/switch section of your parts house for less then by all means buy the cheaper one, but if you can't find it then you should atleast be able to cross reference the part number...The one found on my oem relay wouldn't cross to anything.

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#17 ·
I had the same problem with the acc. terminal, when I hooked up a light bar directly to it, it ran for a few seconds then there was a click and now no power to the acc. terminal. I checked all of the fuses and switched the relays in the fuse box but still no power.
I even looked at the schematic to see where that wire ran to but still no power, I was thinking that there was a relay or a fuse or something somewhere between the acc. terminal and the fuse box but I haven't found anything yet.
If you find the answer please let me know.
 
#19 ·
Are you guys using a meter or test light to know that you have no power or the lights themselves. the acc. shouldn't be used to directly power lights ,it should be used to power switch and relay .The relay supply's the secondary power and you will have to run that power from the battery. the only term that is hooked up to anything is the acc. ,you have to run power and ground to them . my lights are fused in the harness supplyed with them any chance you have blown them .
 
#20 ·
After both of my lights quit working, I tested the accessory terminal with a meter. I agree that something clicked when both lights were turned on and now there's no power to that terminal. Both lights are now hooked to the power and ground terminals with harnesses that are fused with relays and work fine. Now I just have to fix what I've screwed up.
 
#26 ·
I finally got a chance to do some more checking on this. There's a wire (orange with white stripe) running to the ACC terminal that I assume powers the terminal when the key is on. I thought maybe the wire ran back to the key switch. Of course there's two orange wires! Neither of which has a white stripe! So I have no idea where the wire going to the ACC terminal comes from. For now I guess I'll leave it be. :censored:
 
#28 ·
Meter the fuse. I have had them look perfect but actually had blown in the ends of the fuse where you cant see, you know like they aren't suppose to do...

Set a multimeter to ohms, remove the fuse, and check the resistance across the two legs of the acc fuse. If she doesn't give a near 0 ohm reading, replace. In fact it may be easier to just replace the fuse and be done with it.
 
#32 ·
Well as bad as I hate to admit it to you guys, I'm a dumbass! I thought all along the ACC fuse had to do with the ACC terminal under the hood. Well it doesn't! It's the fuse to the 12V plug in. The TERM fuse goes to the terminal under the hood. I swear I checked ALL the fuses the first time but apparently I didn't. I decided to double check everything once again and found the TERM 10A fuse was bad. Everything now works like it's supposed to. I appreciate all the help and information all of you have provided more than I can say. Hopefully I'll be able to repay it in the future. BTW, we went riding yesterday and I had the chance to use the new light bars once it got dark. I'm VERY pleased!!!

Here's a pic with them both one.

Image