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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a set of trailblazer high lumen headlights for my 2018 rzr turbo S. I installed them in machine and noticed that high beam light in cluster would illuminate when the low beams were turned on. I checked power wire(yellow) for high at headlights and found voltage backfeeding.

I UNPLUGGED trailblazer headlights and confirmed the following:
Low beam: 12v green 0v yellow
High beam: 0v green 12v yellow

I plugged trailblazer headlights in 1 at a time and confirmed they BOTH back feed voltage.

Low beam: 13.8v green 13.3v yellow
High beam: .6v green 13.6v yellow

I am a field service tech and specialize in diagnostics/repair of hydraulics and electronics. I can say with 100% certainty the new headlights are back feeding voltage. Stock headlights work fine and unplugging trailblazer headlights makes problem stop 100%. I know how to fix the problem by adding diodes, but I don’t think I should HAVE to fix a problem on new $700 headlights installed on a new $30k machine.

My problem is that Polaris is blowing this off. The local dealer submitted an “ask Polaris” concern about the issue. One of my symptoms is that my light bar turns on when low beams are on. This is because I use pin 6 on headlight switch (12v signal wire that turns high beam on) to operate the coil(pin86) on a relay for lightbar (an additional 154mA on circuit). The voltage back feed from trailblazer headlights comes all the way to pin6 on headlight switch and in turn operators relay for lightbar. Polaris said that since I added an additional circuit to light switch this was causing problem... even though it didn’t start until after I installed their trailblazer lights.

Just to prove my relay had nothing to do with problem, I pulled it and nothing changed... except light bar did not turn on.


TL:DR
Trailblazer headlights are powering up highbeam circuit when low beam is turned on. Polaris doesn’t want to admit the resistor module on headlights is the problem and wants to blame the relay I added to highbeam circuit.


Any advice??


 

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Check the ground wires.
Run a temporary HEAVY ground wire direct to battery, and see what happens.
 

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Interesting post Ein,

I also installed a set of $500+ Trailblazer lights and just went out to the garage. Sure enough, the high beam indicator comes on all the time. Low or high beam. My extra lights are powered separately from an aux fuse block & switches.

I would be tempted to bring this up with my dealer but, I'd rather shoot myself in the foot.

If it where me, I'd go the diode route and chalk it up to yet another Polaris "oops"

If you go the diode route, post up what you used. The owner fixes here on the forum are sometimes a better source than the service manual or dealer.

Do you think just one diode at the switch would work?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I hauled my turbo S to dealer and proved to their shop Forman that the lights were back feeding voltage. They went to technical with the proof. The local Polaris dealer is still waiting to hear back. I want to get this resolved, but I am hesitant to fix this myself because I don’t want to “mess with” the lights until they give me a final answer. I will update as soon as anything changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting post Ein,

I also installed a set of $500+ Trailblazer lights and just went out to the garage. Sure enough, the high beam indicator comes on all the time. Low or high beam. My extra lights are powered separately from an aux fuse block & switches.

I would be tempted to bring this up with my dealer but, I'd rather shoot myself in the foot.

If it where me, I'd go the diode route and chalk it up to yet another Polaris "oops"

If you go the diode route, post up what you used. The owner fixes here on the forum are sometimes a better source than the service manual or dealer.

Do you think just one diode at the switch would work?
A small common 2.5amp diode at switch would solve my lightbar issue, but highbeam on cluster would still be illuminated any time the lights are on. You would need two larger 25amp diodes (one at each headlight on yellow highbeam wire) like you install on a towed vehicle behind a camper.

Here are the ones I’m looking at if I have to fix myself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007HRO4X8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
 

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Thanks Ein, good to keep in the memory bank file.

Have you adjusted the beam pattern on your lights?

I need to find a flat surface at night where I can park the RZR about 20' away from a wall and tinker around with the beam pattern.

Might have to go to work some night and unload the RZR from the trailer so I can shine the lights at a wall from 20' away.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So today I got word back from the dealer that Polaris is totally blowing off this headlight issue. They literally are going with the “must of been something you have done” even though stock headlights work fine and other people are having same issue.

I literally trouble shoot and fix electrical problems for a living!!! I make my paycheck with a multimeter!!!! There is no Possible way adding an additional 154mA to a circuit with factory 7.5A fuse (that’s 7,500mA to those who don’t know) just to operate the coil (pin 86) on a relay could affect factory operation.


I have attempted to contact Polaris but keep getting the run around.

I’m starting to get pissed I spent big money on the turbo S and big money on the “factory plug and play” trailblazer headlights and they will refuse to deal with their design flaw....

I already know what the problem is!!!!! The resistor on the trailblazer headlights is backfeeding voltage....


GO GRAB A NEW SET OFF YOUR FLIPPING SHELF AND BENCH TEST THEM!!! With power and ground to operate “low beam” check the high beam wire.... it will have voltage on it!!!!



Anyone have ideas or contact info for someone with Polaris who will take me seriously??!!!!!
 

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Hey Ein,

Wait until you drive your RZR through snow and get moisture inside the LED eyebrows of your nice expensive Trailblazer lights.

Both sides of mine have moisture in them and the drivers side has burned out LED's.

Called the dealer I bought them from (brick & mortar dealer in another state. Better pricing, no tax, free shipping. They only warranty electrical for 30 days. Called mother Polaris. Ma Polaris said 1 year warranty. Gave me a case number.

Went to my selling dealer with invoice for parts from another Polaris dealer. And case number. They will replace the lights but. . . . I get to pay $162 to have them replace the lights (labor)

I saved about $150 on the first set so I agreed to have them replaced for $162. Now, my 1 year warranty starts all over again and this time, the selling dealer can continue to eat the cost when water gets in them every year. If I so much as get a speck of moisture, trust me, I will be back in for another free set.

If my selling dealer wants to gouge the hell out of me, I guess I will come back every year and get another set of lights for life.

I can be an asshole too. :devil Got the merit badge and graduated Summa cum laude in asshole school.

What really sucks is the instructions say 30-45 minutes to install. That's pretty accurate. Dealer labor rate would be .5-.7 X $125 an hour would be $62 - $87 labor. My selling dealer saw what I paid for them. They are just trying to crawl up my butt for saving some money by purchasing from someone else.

Shining up my asshole merit badge now. Gonna use it for quite some time with my selling dealer.
 

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Trying to get Polaris to resolve this is probably more trouble than it's worth. I pulled up the schematics and there is an easy cheap solution if you want to fix it yourself. Install a 10A diode at the High Beam splice 1-2 junction. This will prevent it from back feeding top the switch and the instrument cluster. The headlight circuit is only a 10A circuit so something like https://www.newark.com/diodes-inc/10a01-t/diode-configuration-single/dp/61AC3323?st=10A%20diode would work


 
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