[guy48065]

I'm using oil like I own a refinery. Last weekend I added a 1/2 qt. every 15-20 miles. This has been coming on for a long time and is due to dust ingestion during the time I was trying to save a buck and fix the problem without paying for a whole new filter system. It's now so inconvenient I can't stand it any longer.

My compression and leakdown numbers are still good and performance hasn't suffered at all so it's probably pointless to take it to the stealership...and anyways I prefer to do it myself.

So...I'm thinking I probably only need valve stem seals, a head gasket and a base gasket (in case I want to pull the cylinder to inspect). Sound right?

Valve Guide Seal pn 5411895 - 1 pack of 2 at $15.29
Head Gasket pn 5247359 - $26.67
Base Gasket pn 5247360 - $15.29

So if I don't find anything horrible in there it looks like I can do this for under a hundred. Anyone else do a top end without any machining or valve work needed?

I've read here that the stock ring gap is too tight--what should I trim it to?

 

[Tuf-Skin]

If you are going to buy a head gasket, I would get the HPD high flow gasket. cooler is better.

 

[guy48065]

so I guess everyone just lets their dealer do this job...

 

[swingarm1]

No I have done quite a few...

 

[im4seven]

I'm using oil like I own a refinery. Last weekend I added a 1/2 qt. every 15-20 miles. This has been coming on for a long time and is due to dust ingestion during the time I was trying to save a buck and fix the problem without paying for a whole new filter system. It's now so inconvenient I can't stand it any longer.

My compression and leakdown numbers are still good and performance hasn't suffered at all so it's probably pointless to take it to the stealership...and anyways I prefer to do it myself.

So...I'm thinking I probably only need valve stem seals, a head gasket and a base gasket (in case I want to pull the cylinder to inspect). Sound right?

Valve Guide Seal pn 5411895 - 1 pack of 2 at $15.29
Head Gasket pn 5247359 - $26.67
Base Gasket pn 5247360 - $15.29

So if I don't find anything horrible in there it looks like I can do this for under a hundred. Anyone else do a top end without any machining or valve work needed?

I've read here that the stock ring gap is too tight--what should I trim it to?

If you are pretty sure it's just the valve seals why not just pressurize the cylinders and change the seals w/o taking the head off?

Could be the guides are worn, not just the seals. Based on the tests you did and the performance level I would guess dust ingestion isn't the problem. Is the plug fouling? With the amount of oil you are using it would almost have to be if the problem was on the intake side. If no fouling I'd be looking on the exhaust side, especially the exhaust valve guides.

 

[guy48065]

If you are pretty sure it's just the valve seals why not just pressurize the cylinders and change the seals w/o taking the head off?

I hadn't thought of that! I'm pretty sure I have the adapter here somewhere...
I've never done this--If I remove the rockers I won't have to worry about piston position or locking the crank from moving, right?

Could be the guides are worn, not just the seals. Based on the tests you did and the performance level I would guess dust ingestion isn't the problem. Is the plug fouling? With the amount of oil you are using it would almost have to be if the problem was on the intake side. If no fouling I'd be looking on the exhaust side, especially the exhaust valve guides.

Yes plug gets oil fouled and after enough miles it does affect performance. I clean or replace them & I'm good for another couple rides. I should check my spark arrestor--I bet it's getting plugged up, too :rollfinger:

 

[im4seven]

If you are pretty sure it's just the valve seals why not just pressurize the cylinders and change the seals w/o taking the head off?

I hadn't thought of that! I'm pretty sure I have the adapter here somewhere...
I've never done this--If I remove the rockers I won't have to worry about piston position or locking the crank from moving, right?

Could be the guides are worn, not just the seals. Based on the tests you did and the performance level I would guess dust ingestion isn't the problem. Is the plug fouling? With the amount of oil you are using it would almost have to be if the problem was on the intake side. If no fouling I'd be looking on the exhaust side, especially the exhaust valve guides.

Yes plug gets oil fouled and after enough miles it does affect performance. I clean or replace them & I'm good for another couple rides. I should check my spark arrestor--I bet it's getting plugged up, too :rollfinger:

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. No worrys, when you pressurize the cylinder the piston will go to BDC. both valves will be closed so just take the rockers off. When you are done w/ the install leave a little lash. After you relieve the pressure bring it up to TDC and set the valve adjustment.

 

[Tuf-Skin]

valve adjustment? on a rzr engine?

 

[johnnycat8]

valve adjustment? on a rzr engine?

x2 the rzr is hyd lifters no valve adjustment unless you added adj push rods....

 

[GIFF-TURBO]

There is no valve adjustment on the stocker

 

[johnnycat8]

There is no valve adjustment on the stocker

hey no copy cats....lol

 

[im4seven]

Didn't know, haven't had a rzr apart. Don't forget that small block Chevy's needed an adjustment on their hyd lifters, all depends on how the rockers mounted. In any event that just makes it easier to change the valve seal on this engine.