Some good info:

"When the wheel on one side of the car encounters a disturbance, that wheel is pulled rearward about its steering axis. This action also pulls the other wheel in the same steering direction. If it's a minor disturbance, the disturbed wheel will steer only a small amount, perhaps so that it's rolling straight ahead instead of toed-in slightly. But note that with this slight steering input, the rolling paths of the wheels still don't describe a turn. The wheels have absorbed the irregularity without significantly changing the direction of the vehicle. In this way, toe-in enhances straight-line stability.

If the car is set up with toe-out, however, the front wheels are aligned so that slight disturbances cause the wheel pair to assume rolling directions that do describe a turn. Any minute steering angle beyond the perfectly centered position will cause the inner wheel to steer in a tighter turn radius than the outer wheel. Thus, the car will always be trying to enter a turn, rather than maintaining a straight line of travel. So it's clear that toe-out encourages the initiation of a turn, while toe-in discourages it."

 

go ahead and try it, i don't think you will like it with toe-in, too darty at higher speeds and makes the front want to push [tight] even more than they already do, when turning.

 

that and it will be (darty) if ya know what i mean. ya dont toe-in!

 

So what it really boils down to is what kind of riding you are going to do.. If you are in the dunes slight toe-in or toe-out doesn't mean much since your fronts will slide no matter what BUT if you drive fast then SLIGHT toe-in is better than toe-out in chopped up dunes. Hard pack and fast driving slight toe-in, slow technical driving slight toe-out.... Emphasis on slight..... Also remember that it takes all of about 10 minutes and two wrenches to make the adjustments when you need to....

 

Got mine set to 0 toe.... works great in the sand at Glamis.

Turns in good and is not darty. My front dunestars steer well with not much push at all compared to smooth buffs.

For me, with my set-up, at o toe it is no more 'darty' then at 1/8" or 1/4" toe out. Even at 70+mph. Although at those speeds no matter what the toe is, a RZR can't be called a high speed stable platform.

I have tried the whole range from toe out to toe in, and found 0 toe worked best for me.

 

I don't have the "toe-in" issue...in fact....I have a "Toe out" problem! lol

 

YOU'RE TOO FUNNY LEE.
Always refreshing to find someone with a good sense of humor. LOL
Bart

 

While on the issue how are you guys adjusting your toe? the right front is off and needs to be adjusted. it was a pain on my ATV's to get right. Looking for suggestions on how you guys do it.

 

When i bought mine I noticed that the right front is toed out just a little more that the left. My dealer said that it was setup from the factory that way. I looked at the other rzr's and they were all the same way. IDK???

 

I will try toe in, as stated above it is easy to change. Just wanted to see what others have experienced. Toe in should be less darty than toe out. Toe out allows for better turn in but will not be as stable as toe in. I also think that 0 toe would be a good setup for the dunes. That is from my experience with race quads and everything I have read. So, any high speed desert guys have some firsthand experience?

Thanks to all for the input!

 

The manual does not have you set one tire with more toe out than the other. See instructions from manual below:

Toe inspection:
1. Place machine on a smooth level surface.
2. Set steering wheel in a straight ahead position and secure the steering wheel in this position.
3. Place a chalk mark on the center line of the front tires approximately 10” (25.4 cm) from the floor or as close to the hub/axle center line as possible.
NOTE: It is important that the height of both marks be equally positioned in order to get an accurate measurement.
4. Measure the distance between the marks and record the measurement. Call this measurement “A”.
5. Rotate the tires 180° by moving vehicle forward or backward. Position chalk marks facing rearward, even with the hub/axle center line.
6. Again measure the distance between the marks and record. Call this measurement “B”. Subtract measurement “B” from measurement “A”. The difference between measurements “A” and “B” is the vehicle toe alignment. The recommended vehicle toe tolerance is 1/8” to 1/4” (.3 to .6 cm) toe out. This means the measurement at the front of the tire (A) is 1/8” to 1/4” (.3 to .6 cm) wider than the measurement at the rear (B).

Toe Adjustment
If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance between vehicle center and each wheel. This will tell you which tie rod needs adjusting.
NOTE: Be sure steering wheel is straight ahead before determining which tie rod(s) need adjustment.
To adjust toe alignment:
• Hold tie rod end to keep it from rotating.
• Loosen jam nuts at both ends of the tie rod.
• Shorten or lengthen the tie rod until alignment is as required to achieve the proper toe setting as specified in
Toe Alignment Inspection.
• IMPORTANT: When tightening the tie rod end jam nuts, the rod ends must be held parallel to prevent rod end damage and premature wear. Damage may not be immediately apparent if done incorrectly.
• After alignment is complete, torque jam nuts to specification

 

My experience has been that more "toed in leads" to more steering affect and can lead to oversteer.

It seems that having the tire already toed into the turn coupled with the weight transfer to that tire creates more turning effect. Whether you like that or want that is for you to decide. Oversteer on a tipping vehicle (50" RZR) can get interesting.