[USMCSKI]

Anyone have a good fix for this? I went out to ride the USMC RZR round the yard and when I adjusted the steering wheel the strut pissed oil all over me. Is there anyone making a solid bar to replace the strut or is there a replacement strut thats any better than the original?

 

[Tuf-Skin]

if you don't want the tilt function, you can just make a rod or bar the right length.
I think Motoxxx did that to his.

 

[rzr4mud]

Yeah, had trouble with mine too. Took it apart and sprayed with WD-40, as everyone said to but it still didnt work. Even let it soak all day and over night. Finally just pushed the pin all the way in and thought it was over beacause it wouldnt come out. But after tapping around the houseing where the pin is located with a small hammer, it finally came out. I just kept spraying it with WD-40, pushing it in, and then tapping on it to get it out again. It finally started working properly. Keeping it clean and greased now but I'm sure it'll happen again. Least now I'll know how to fix it.

 

[USMCSKI]

I had problems with the pin sticking last spring...took the strut off and soaked it with WD-40 and it worked again. This time when i took the strut off the little pin in the end came out and oil pissed all over me.

 

[rzr4mud]

If there's no aftermarket replacement, the solid rod is the only way to go. As much trouble as the little strut's been, I'd never buy a stock replacement. I have searched the web and unfortunately, can't find an after market replacement.

 

[mntbound]

I bought the new version from popo. EXPENSIVE, but I needed the tilt. The new one is heavier duty and has not messed up yet and just works smoother - 3 months of service out of it so far.

 

[rzr4mud]

Whats the newer, expensive one run Mike?

 

[mntbound]

Whats the newer, expensive one run Mike?

I want to say it was around $50 or more.

Duracap
p/n 7043523
lot# 091228

Now if you search it and find it really cheap, I don't want to know. They had me over the counter:rm_thumbdown:

 

[EasTTeX]

Worked on mine this weekend. Lubed the pin up on the end of the rod. Pushed it in and out a couple times added more WD40. It'll work for a while, second time I have done this. For what its worth...

EasTTeX

 

[USMCSKI]

I talked with Jim at stabilus....he has something in the works as far as a new strut that has a stainless plunger in the end and is also sealed. He is supposed to be getting back to me here in the next couple days in reference to pricing and further info. I gave him info on this site and he may be posting here soon.


Just a heads up...those that are using WD-40....dont use it. It will destroy the original seal in the strut! He advised to use something like lithium grease!!

 

[racerx909]

Any new info on this updated strut? I think I need a new one. My old strut has no resistance/pressure on the plunger after cleaning with wd40. It moves in and out freely now.

 

[Fleeingpepper]

Yeah I'd use something like PB Grease to free it, then lube it up with white (lithium) grease. It's designed to never evaporate or anything. WD40 eats away rubber and evaporates really fast, leaving you with no lubricant.

 

[racerx909]

I think a seal on mine is blown because the plunger never stays out. I can move it in or out easily, but there is no pressure keeping the plunger out.

 

[thewyseone]

Yahoo! Image Detail for - http://www.adventureropegear.com/cart/images/turnbuckle2_lg.jpg

double ended turnbuckle might work

 

[racerx909]

Whats the newer, expensive one run Mike?

I want to say it was around $50 or more.

Duracap
p/n 7043523
lot# 091228

Now if you search it and find it really cheap, I don't want to know. They had me over the counter:rm_thumbdown:

Will this part number work on a 2008?
2008 p/n: 7043261
2009 old p/n: 7043439
2009 new p/n: 7043523
I dont know if the new p/n will work, it looks like alot of the p/n for the steering components are different 2008 to 2009

 

[sharktank]

I talked with Jim at stabilus....he has something in the works as far as a new strut that has a stainless plunger in the end and is also sealed. He is supposed to be getting back to me here in the next couple days in reference to pricing and further info. I gave him info on this site and he may be posting here soon.


Just a heads up...those that are using WD-40....dont use it. It will destroy the original seal in the strut! He advised to use something like lithium grease!!

Thats what did to my second one, I packed the end full of Marine wheel bearing grease. so far its worked 1 year.

 

[XR4Honda]

I talked with Jim at stabilus....he has something in the works as far as a new strut that has a stainless plunger in the end and is also sealed. He is supposed to be getting back to me here in the next couple days in reference to pricing and further info. I gave him info on this site and he may be posting here soon.


Just a heads up...those that are using WD-40....dont use it. It will destroy the original seal in the strut! He advised to use something like lithium grease!!

Thats what did to my second one, I packed the end full of Marine wheel bearing grease. so far its worked 1 year.

Any word from Jim at stabilus?

 

[silveradols]

Yahoo! Image Detail for - http://www.adventureropegear.com/cart/images/turnbuckle2_lg.jpg

double ended turnbuckle might work

I think this might be to long at 12"

 

[XR4Honda]

Yahoo! Image Detail for - http://www.adventureropegear.com/cart/images/turnbuckle2_lg.jpg

double ended turnbuckle might work

I put a 10 inch double ended turn buckle on mine and it is perfect. You get the same adjustment as with the shock that never worked that well. Best 3$ I ever spent on the rzr. You will need a couple random washers to get a tight fit so it does not rattle.....

I think this might be to long at 12"

 

[Kandgo]

I just fixed mine. It was puking fluid out. I took it off, drained all the fluid out of it. Took the top section with the lowering handle off, then the jam nut under that, then the plastic boot. I then reinstalled it and made a file mark on the rod where I wanted it to stay. Back off and then welded the rod in place, cooled it off, put the plastic sleeve on, jam nut, and the lowering top with out the handle "obviously", and reinstalled. Good and tight and no more worries.

If a guy wanted to, you could take off the two allen bolts on the main swivel section, take off the plastic washers off and tighten them up really tight also. I am a big guy, have Pro Armor doors on and I have no problem getting in and out with the Steering Wheel in the normal driving position. And now I know it won't freeze up straight up, down or puke out on me on the trails!!

Tilt would have been a good option if Polaris had put on some quality shocks on, but reading and knowing how many I have seen go bad, it is a no brainer to secure it solid. Goodluck!!

NOTE!!!!!!!!! I should have stated, that if yours has the fluid in it, drill a hole in the bottom and drain out before welding the rod in place!!!!!!! NOTE!!

Mine had all the fluid come out thru the release pin, and I just kept on pumping it till all was gone, but in reality the amount of weld to secure it in place is so little and so fast that a guy probably should not be concerned of building up excess gas in side the shock, but to be sure just DRILL A HOLE AND DRAIN IT!!!