Need a picture.
TIE RODS HITTING UPPER A ARMS!!!!!!!!
Not sure if anyone has run into this.
I have seen some people complain about this but had not seen a fix.
I have arched forward 1.5 SATV A arms, Kryptonite stage 2.5 Tie rods ( had this issue with the satv hd tie rods aswell)
Rhino 2.0 axles, 2in bracket lift 4inch dual idler portals.
someone had said adjust A arms.... not to sure how to adjust upper non adjustable A arms.
another comment I seen was limiter straps. i have a set of limiter straps hold the shock back 1.5in from full droop and still hits.
The tie rod bars hit uppers when turning or hit any rougher bump.
Any suggestions would help or anyone who has had this issue plez lemme know how you solved it.
thank you
I have seen some people complain about this but had not seen a fix.
I have arched forward 1.5 SATV A arms, Kryptonite stage 2.5 Tie rods ( had this issue with the satv hd tie rods aswell)
Rhino 2.0 axles, 2in bracket lift 4inch dual idler portals.
someone had said adjust A arms.... not to sure how to adjust upper non adjustable A arms.
another comment I seen was limiter straps. i have a set of limiter straps hold the shock back 1.5in from full droop and still hits.
The tie rod bars hit uppers when turning or hit any rougher bump.
Any suggestions would help or anyone who has had this issue plez lemme know how you solved it.
thank you
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Can't tell much, have one that shows the whole assy?
As I see it there are two options: Do away with the bracket lift or shorter limit straps to reduce the down travel.
@SuperATV what say you?
@SuperATV what say you?
limiter straps are perfect size. They are 1.5 inches from fully extended.
I am running the 2018 rzr XP turbo 2.5 remote resvoir shocks. they are shorter by about 3/4-1 inch then the walker evans 2.0. The bracket lift by satv is only a 2inch lift but with the shocks its closer to a 1.5 in lift ( if you dont include the Portals and 35s
I am running the 2018 rzr XP turbo 2.5 remote resvoir shocks. they are shorter by about 3/4-1 inch then the walker evans 2.0. The bracket lift by satv is only a 2inch lift but with the shocks its closer to a 1.5 in lift ( if you dont include the Portals and 35s
I Have modified the bracket so I can position the shocks at multiple angles.
3 sets of holes on the upper perches ( SATV Bracket ) to fine tune shock angle.
pic is the shock sitting on the satv pre dilled position.
3 sets of holes on the upper perches ( SATV Bracket ) to fine tune shock angle.
pic is the shock sitting on the satv pre dilled position.
Maybe the steering rack is mounted in a different location on the General than the XP1000. That would cause clearance issues.
front frame dimensions are exactly the same.Maybe the steering rack is mounted in a different location on the General than the XP1000. That would cause clearance issues.
Ah, it was just a shot in the dark.front frame dimensions are exactly the same.
Ah, it was just a shot in the dark.
[/QUOTE
I appreicate the idea. Hey any suggestions or comments doesnt hurt.
friends of ours has this set up no issue on his general. But about 20hr drive sooo yeahh lol
he has no issues.
I inow on the 800's some call for the tie-rods to be bolted on top of the spindle tab and some call for them to be bolted to the bottom of the spindle tab. But when they are put on wrong they cause massive amounts of bump steer and massive amounts of toe change as the suspension cycles.
I tried to bolt on the bottom. that is worse then top. hits bottom harder and easier.
Not if they are allowing too droop so the arms contact the tie-rods. Or.....ditch the cheesy lift brackets, they ruin the suspension geometry.limiter straps are perfect size.
Sounds like a lot of aftermarket parts causing a "tolerance stacking" issue.
This looks like a tough one to solve while keeping all the parts you have installed. Depending on how comfortable you are with modifying things, you could put the tie rods in a press and bend an offset in them. Or just make your own rods from bar stock. Depending on how bad the interference is, might get away with a small banana shape in the rod itself. It looks like the forward offset arms are the biggest offender here, followed by the thicker diameter rods. Maybe a steel rod instead of aluminum could cut down on thickness enough to clear?
Just weld an extra tab on where your tie rod attaches to your portal bracket and drill a new 5/8" hole further back and run a grade 8 bolt, us a misalignment heim to help with some of the steering radius loss of moving it back.
This should move it back far enough to keep it away from the A-Arm when it drops down.
I don't have a picture at the moment but can when I get home or youtube SlikRok Productions portal tie rod mod and their video should explain it.
This should move it back far enough to keep it away from the A-Arm when it drops down.
I don't have a picture at the moment but can when I get home or youtube SlikRok Productions portal tie rod mod and their video should explain it.
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
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