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Copied and pasted from the tech article I write on our site.


The Dobeck Gen 4 Fuel Controller


In my opinion this Dobeck Gen 4 controller is the best of the best and best fits the Polaris line of vehicles. Why? Because this is a true autotuning fuel controller only with no ignition and the RZR, Ranger, RZR XP 900 can only add about 500 more RPM with a ignition box anyway with stock engine parts. In my own XP 900 that translates to 80 mph instead of 77 mph which I run at either and don't recommend staying at that RPM that long anyway.

If most people would be honest they stay under 30 mph most of the time anyway. Even when I race I am on the throttle and off it and barely hitting 65mph. So the point I am making most people simply will not need a ignition to get by a rev limiter on a Polaris vehicle. We are NOT selling this for a Rhino or Teryx simply because they are speed limited severely and this would not help them in that area.

Now I said I think this is the best of the best, let me explain. Previous to this controller by Dobeck only the Gen 3.5 would take away fuel and it was a manual operated controller. Most of the fuel controller boxes you see out there by a lot of companies that they sell with their exhaust for example with their name on it is a Dobeck fuel controller and most are not the Gen 3.5 that would take fuel away.

Any fuel controller you see out there with anyone's name on it that has a minus button on one side and a plus on the other with a mode button in middle is a Dobeck Controller and will NOT take away fuel except in the rare case it is a Gen 3.5. You say, I want to add fuel not take it away. Not true, there is not one single fuel map for a Polaris vehicle that does not take away fuel when mapped correctly, they run very rich from the factory in some areas. If you don't believe me, go to Dynojet's website, download the software then download any fuel map you want they made for the Power Commander for any Polaris vehicle and you will see they took fuel away most of the time in the midrange.

Ok so your with me so far, now lets get onto this new one, the Gen 4. What is different about it? It comes with a oxygen sensor that connects to the unit, you tell it what air/fuel ratio you want to run and it does it no matter what mods you do. NO more tuning!!! Seriously, no more tuning on your own. The Gen 4 is also a air/fuel ratio gauge that you get real time readings right on your dash with a standard 2 1/16" gauge. You do have to drill a hole and weld in the threaded bung to screw the sensor in.

The Gen 4 runs in what is called closed loop mode while cruising, accelerating and under load such as wide open throttle. Closed loop means it takes a reading from the O2 sensor, compares it to what you told it to run at and adjust fuel on the fly to match it. So you can add even a camshaft, piston etc and it will still adjust. I don't mean the only person who needs this has to have those mods, I am saying even those mods it will fix for you easily.

Example: Say you bought it today put on a stock machine, had it all set up and then put an intake, exhaust cams etc on it then guess what, no adjustment needed it will still do it for you just like before. Meaning if you was shooting for a midrange air/fuel ratio of 13.5 and a wide open air fuel of 13 at wide open before and you want same readings after your mods and I think you would then no adjustments needed. The O2 sensor is going to read the differences and the box is going to change the fuel to compensate for the new mods. This unit will take fuel away too not just add, it does whatever it takes to make it run at the air/fuel ratio you told it to.

There are six zones it makes changes in two are closed loop and two are open loop which means it fuels based on what you tell it not what the sensor sees. You have three main zones Green (idle), Yellow ( cruise) and Red ( wide open throttle or heavier load) the only one of those you have to set is the green. There are three other zones which are what is called "switch points" meaning where the three main zones kick in at and you control that.

I will let the instructions that come with it explain all the zones but it goes something like this. FYI the gauge has three buttons on it, a mode button, a left arrow and a right arrow plus four lights that tell you what zone it is in.

To set air/fuel at idle, you sit in neutral press on the gas a small amount and get a air/fuel reading on the gauge. We shoot for about a 12 here, if it is lower than that you press the mode button once, the green light flashes which means you can make changes when it is flashing, then you press the right arrow to lean it up or if it is leaner than 12 you press the left arrow to richen it up. This is the open loop area you have to set it.

The yellow zone is really easy, simply press the mode button until the yellow flashes then push the left or right button which moves the pointer on the guage to point to what air/fuel ratio you want to run and I use 13.5 and let go, that's it.

The Red zone is set just like the yellow, mash the mode button until the red flashes then press the left or right button until the pointer points at 13 like I do or whatever you decided the air/fuel ratio you want to run at then let go.

No futher adjustment needed, you fixed idle and you told it what air/fuel ratio to run in the mids and wide open and it will run that no matter what you do to it. Change exhaust or whatever and as long as you have the O2 sensor in the exhaust it will run it.

The switch points are more personal preference they are simply the places where it transitions, the only mod I did to mine was raise the red zone up so I could cruise in the yellow more.

It's just this simple but let me compare it to the other ways to do this.

First you have to assume you want to change fuel, either you are trying to get a better throttle response with a stock machine by leaning it up some in the midrange or you need to change the fuel due to some mod like intake, exhaust, cams etc.

Other choices:

Any brand of fuel controller only, cost about $200 to $300, either you have to rely on someone else who set it up for you and hoping they are right or you have to buy a $280 air/fuel ratio gauge, learn how to use the controller and set it up all manually yourself. You also would have to buy the right one so it takes away fuel in some areas and the only one I know of does this is the Dynatek and Dynojet fuel controllers only. So this way you got $480 to $580 tied up in this

The Power Commander V which we sell and agree it is a great unit. It does come with ignition if you need it but if you want to change the fuel, again you either have to buy a $280 air/fuel ratio guage or the $259 auto-tune add on module to the $320 for the PCV itself from us anyway, way more in other places so you got around $600 tied up in it and you have to learn how to use the software, get a laptop, sit in passenger seat while someone else drives and use the auto-tune module or a air/fuel ratio guage.

The auto-tune is not totally automatic, make sure you read the tech article I wrote on it by clicking HERE

Also unless you buy a air/fuel ratio gauge and install the gauge in your dash or buy the LCD screeen for the PCV you will not have a gauge to read air/fuel ratio like you will with the included gauge with this new Gen 4 unit.

I am not knocking the PCV, I like it and use it myself. Hunterworks will continue to use it and sell it, it has it's place with the ignition side of it, it is just most people will be best served with this new Gen 4 controller due to the price which is much less than any alternative, no computer is needed, included gauge and much easier to use.

Personally I think it is the cats meow, when I installed mine on my own XP 900, saw how easy it was to install, it only has a couple connections, I was like wow!!!! The Gen 4 plugs only into the injector harness and it does not matter which one you plug to which, it has a ground and then simply run the cable for the gauge to the dash. That is it!!

Trust me it is so easy to use, easy to install, way less money and does all the work for you. After my install, I had my race XP tuned in less than 5 min. It was so fast, I went and reread the instructions and called Dobeck to ask if that was it? LOL

I have been waiting on this controller a while and I think over time it will be come the controller of choice by far for the Polaris UTV owner. Nothing beats it on ease of use, performance, value and price.

I was lucky enough to be a Beta tester on it and just simply was overwhelmed with it. Weird really, you want it to be more complicated when you are used to other methods. It makes custom maps a thing of the past, makes it where you no longer have to depend on someone else to make maps for you, no more dyno tunes etc. Oh my, just thought about the 30 grand I spend on our dyno!!!

Our goal at Hunterworks is to get you the products that do something, do it well and make it easy for you. This Gen 4 fuel controller sure does that!!

For more info please call me or take a look on our site at it

Link to controller on our site

Todd
 

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I have one laying in a pile on the floor, my turbo Xp came with it. I ripped it out and used a pc5 with auto tune. It is simple, but not enough control for turbo application in my opinion


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I have one laying in a pile on the floor my turbo Xperia came with


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so are you saying good or bad?
Me no likey... I will ship it to someone with an Xp. Might work good for non turbo. It has boost reference also.


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I have larger injectors so it could not pull enough fuel. It ran extremely rich in my application.


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I don't want to knock the product, just so I am clear. I think for basic mods they are probably good, and very easy to use. I see them used on motorcycles with good reviews and I don't think Todd would sell them if he didn't believe in them.


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As always very nice write up Todd

Thank You

Its very helpfull for us guys that know nothing about fuel controllers

Now I do know something about-em
 

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subscribed. Great write up. interested on the turbo application too
 

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what color is the gauge light (night)?
 

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Todd,

Let me know what you find out on the turbo. I want to jump on this but if this will not work on a turbo, I will have to go another route. Also does the weld in bung come with it?
 

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Re: Re: The New Gen 4 Fuel Controller Explained

Todd,

Let me know what you find out on the turbo. I want to jump on this but if this will not work on a turbo, I will have to go another route. Also does the weld in bung come with it?
I would advise not to use on turbo. Me and others walked away and went with pc5 for way better control. Silber turbo kits came with these in the beginning and now offer it with a power commander.
 

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Todd,

Let me know what you find out on the turbo. I want to jump on this but if this will not work on a turbo, I will have to go another route. Also does the weld in bung come with it?
I would advise not to use on turbo. Me and others walked away and went with pc5 for way better control. Silber turbo kits came with these in the beginning and now offer it with a power commander.
I am prepping for the turbo and curious why its bad? What does the pcV have over it?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update on these after talking with the Dobeck engineer.

Like almost new products you run into issues and learn as you go.

Silber turbo owner and Dobeck are friends and work together. What happened was the early Gen 4 stuff last fall was rushed thru due to wanting them to go with the turbo application. They have made a totally new manufacturing process since then on the box itself and gauges.

These do not work with bigger injectors unless you specify from Dobeck so they can prgram it for you.

So rest assured today's units appear to be rock solid.

So as long as you do not have a turbo and you let someone know you have bigger injectors then today units are essentially problem free.

Thanks,
Todd
 
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