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Discussion Starter #1
Went to remove the primary clutch and heard the "pop" and realized spider and moveable sheave were unscrewing.Cant think of any way to torque the spider gear on the machine.Any body got any ideas how to remove the stationary sheave and spindle?Thanks
 

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Is it because the engine is spinning over.? If that is the problem. In the old days we used to pull the spark plug out. Turn the crank so the piston was down some. And stuff rope down in the cylinder. And then turn the crank so the piston comes up against it. But I would check before doing this with someone else that knows these machines. I wouldn’t want you to bend a piston rod or something. Just throwing this out there. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it is .Might try the rope trick,really in a pickle.Also wondering if red loctite and as tight as I can get it would do?
 

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Yes it is .Might try the rope trick,really in a pickle.Also wondering if red loctite and as tight as I can get it would do?
Red is pretty aggressive. There’s a couple different grades of it. Make sure you don’t get the high strengt. I usually use this service removal blue.
 

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I think it would be in your best interest to remove the remaining parts of the clutch from the engine, and then assemble the clutch properly on a workbench using the correct tools etc. You may get away with your suggested method working, but the spider may come loose again while out on the trail, and possibly ruin itself and or other parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think it would be in your best interest to remove the remaining parts of the clutch from the engine, and then assemble the clutch properly on a workbench using the correct tools etc. You may get away with your suggested method working, but the spider may come loose again while out on the trail, and possibly ruin itself and or other parts.
I get that but half the clutch is still on the engine with no way to pull it.The clutch tool grabs the top plate on the clutch and my top plate and spider gear unscrewed leaving spindle and non moveable sheath still in place.
 

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I get that but half the clutch is still on the engine with no way to pull it.The clutch tool grabs the top plate on the clutch and my top plate and spider gear unscrewed leaving spindle and non moveable sheath still in place.
I here what you are saying, but I thought the clutch puller screws into the non movable sheave which I am imagining is what is still on the engine. If I am correct, then you should still be able to remove it and go to the bench.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I here what you are saying, but I thought the clutch puller screws into the non movable sheave which I am imagining is what is still on the engine. If I am correct, then you should still be able to remove it and go to the bench.
You are right.I put screw in and bumped the starter a couple times and it popped off.Problem was keeping the engine from turning over.Nothing to grab hold of
 

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I don't know that I would use red loctite if you ever want to pull the spider off again for a rebuild. I've had a primary that someone used red loctite and when I went to remove the spider it cracked the non moveable sheave.

Another thing to be cautious about is how much you torque the spider down when you put it back together. There is a spacer that sits on a shelf on the spindle that the spider pushes against. It allows you to torque the spider but not have the bearing seize up. The problem I ran into was torquing the spider too much and that spacer expanded. Then the moveable sheave wouldn't slide over it. Too much is a problem, too little is a problem. Find the torque specs and don't get greedy.
 

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The spider torque is 200ft/lbs. And I'm thinlking clutch guru Todd at Hunterworks suggests using red loctite. In 1 of his videos I'm pretty sure he says you may have to use heat to get the spider loose to replace the center bearing. I know I used red high temp on my spider when I replaced my bearing. And I was able to get it back apart a few years later to replace bushings and what not. A clutch get pretty hot, so I would not want blue loctite letting go because of the heat. Just my 2 cents.
 
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The spider torque is 200ft/lbs. And I'm thinlking clutch guru Todd at Hunterworks suggests using red loctite. In 1 of his videos I'm pretty sure he says you may have to use heat to get the spider loose to replace the center bearing. I know I used red high temp on my spider when I replaced my bearing. And I was able to get it back apart a few years later to replace bushings and what not. A clutch get pretty hot, so I would not want blue loctite letting go because of the heat. Just my 2 cents.
I use green loctite 620 and when you only have a back off stuck on, puller still works, screws into the center shaft of the clutch
 

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I use green loctite 620 and when you only have a back off stuck on, puller still works, screws into the center shaft of the clutch
Thanks for clearing that up Todd. I really thought it was red, but I couldn't find the old video of where I saw it.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Got it off last night.My problem was trying to turn the removal bolt and engine would turn,so a breaker bar and bumped the key and presto.Thanks for all the input.
 
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