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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure there are plenty of threads about upgrades for steering. However I am seeing several different types of upgrades available and they address different areas of beefing up the steering.

I went out last night and hit the rocks and there was a few times I cringed during the ride that I thought it was close to breaking something in the steering. I really cant afford to be miles out on a gnarly trail and break a tie rod or rip the rack out. I go out of my way to be easy on the steering. I don't try to turn it hard in the rocks and try to only turn it in general while its rolling but a few times it took some good shots that I couldn't do anything about and I don't like the feeling that I'm on borrowed time with the type of riding Im doing.

So please tell me what is the best steering upgrade for a rock crawling type of setup. I need BEEF. Im mostly concerned with the tie rods and the joint where they attach to the steering knuckle.
 

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I run the L&W Fab tie rods. Double heim setup. Uses a tapered bolt at the knuckle. Very strong setup for a stock knuckle. Only way I know to do it any stronger is run a knuckle that uses a double shear mount at the tie rod end


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Discussion Starter #3
In your opinion are the rods / ends the weakest part of the stock steering?
 

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I was told the rack is a weak point also. I was discussing going to 35” tires and the guy I talked with who builds racers told me the rack would fail, he said the rack would fail anyway but 35’s would speed things up.
 

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The only one I’ve looked at is the Sandcraft, looks pretty stout.
 

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The rack & rods are both the weak point when you start beating on it with 35’s, the best options are the stock rack with the SCR stabilizer, or the Shock Therapy rack with some well built rods, outside of that, you’ll always have a weak link between the rods and rack. The attachment at the knuckle is probably the least common failure point.
 

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I've struggled with steering for years and been through about every setup possible. Tie-rods are an easy fix with aftermarket. There are a ton of good kits available such as @SATV, NRP, etc.... I prefer tie-rods that use a stock style inner joint and not a hiem. Tie-rods with an inner hiem change the pivot point and will induce bump steer.

As mentioned above if you want to keep your rack alive as long as possible use a SCR Steering Stabilizer. It spreads out the load across the frame and both sides of the rack. The bushing in passenger side of the rack will wear out quickly without support and the SCR stabilizer solves this problem. The SCR Stabilizer will not work with all a-arms so check before you buy it.

Then there is the Shock Therapy rack, a big beefy billet rack that will take some abuse. Down side is it's $1200.
 

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Replace your tie rods and keep oem for trail side repair if needed. I have @SuperATV rods on mine. XPT4 with 32’s and stock rack. They’re beefy enough to get the job done. Wife has orb rods on hers and they’ve always seemed to eat up racks compared to mine riding exact same stuff. We finally replaced her rack the last time it bent with shock therapy $$$ rack and it has been very very nice with no problems. I do like the ST rack is serviceable if you do tear it up. Hated to spend that much on a rack but she’s bent them all lol. It was next on the list to try.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Seems to me if there are really just 2 options. Both get it done but in different ways.

I just picked up the sandcraft rack stabilizer as it comes with new chromo rods that the shock therapy rack does not. If its all getting me to the same place as far as strengthening the steering id just assume save the $$$
 

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Seems to me if there are really just 2 options. Both get it done but in different ways.

I just picked up the sandcraft rack stabilizer as it comes with new chromo rods that the shock therapy rack does not. If its all getting me to the same place as far as strengthening the steering id just assume save the $$$

With the SCR stabilizer you will not have to worry about the stock rack breaking. Problem solved!
 

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craigstumph
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We have the Shock Therapy rack and Sandcraft steering stabilizer. Both options look nice. We have Forum discounts for either. If your rack is loose and worn now, I would go with the rack from Shock Therapy because you will end up replacing it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just bougt it from you, im the guy who also bought the RCV axles from you as well. I thought you said there wasn't a forum discount for this item when I asked on the txt ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm installing the sandcraft stabilizer. Its pretty straight forward even without directions which is good because if you follow the link on their site to the directions its not even for the same machine and whatever that one is it installs completely different, has you drilling out holes in the frame, etc.....


I couldn't figure out how to get the tie rod ends off of the rack so after google I decided to put a little heat on the joint. This worked except one side got a little warm and liquefied the plastic bushing in the joint and it poured out, lol.


Other than that I didn't know you gotta have a 14mm allen socket to attach the arm back to the rack so thats on order.

The other thing I wasnt sure of was if this is supposed to sit on top of the factory winch plate or is the winch plate removed? I took it off and it lines up without the plate. Its a nice piece of kit with the chromo tie rods included. I wonder how often it will need grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ALSO! should I be greasing the rack or doing any maintenance while the boots are off and its accessible ?
 

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I dont think there is any real maintenance needed to the OEM steering rack
 
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@RZR_Joe has a technique I saw in his build thread to pop the passenger side bushing out of the rack.
Then you can pump grease into the housing with a grease needle.
Then you just tap the bushing back in with a punch.
Hopefully he'll explain it better
 

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"Steering: The OEM rack & pinion is not technically greaseable but there is a way to grease it. Remove the tie-rods and boots and turn the steering wheel right so the rack comes all the way out on the drivers side as far as the wheel goes. Then put slightly more pressure on the wheel and you will feel the rack shift. This will cause the rack to slip to the inside of the locating collar. Grease the exposed gears on the driver side. Then carefully turn the wheel back left all the way and it will push the locating collar out of the housing. Remove the collar and clean the collar and shaft of old grease. Using a needle point on the grease gun pump grease into the housing. Reinstall the collar and use a small punch to tap it in place until it bottoms out. Done... "
658447

658448
 

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Thats a perfect write up ...especially since I am adding a Sandcraft steering stabilizer as well this week...your old one to be exact .. :)
I thought you mentioned that bushing on the passenger side could be replaced ...did you ever find out if SXS bushings makes a replacement? Is the bushing poly or metal ? I forgot about all this until reading your post....good info as usual Joe...(y)
 
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Needing a little help with this install. Let me bring you up to speed where I am and what the issue is..

Ive got the main part of the stabilizer installed loosely in position. All 4 mounting bolts are in and not quite run down. You can still move the main part around as much as the clearance between the mounting hardware and the holes they go through will allow.

I have removed the tie rods and have also loosly installed end pieces of the stabilizer that connect to the rack.

The drivers side went on ok, I swing around to the passenger side and its not close enough to install the bolt. Keep in mind everything is loose to take advantage of all the wiggle room ive got.

It seems as if maybe I need to loosen the rack to try and get a little more adjustment / wiggle room so it will line up but it looks to be a real pita to loosen it up.....


Ideas?


 
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