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Discussion Starter #1
Interesting item.

When working on my RZR and using the Polaris service manual, a lot of times it states to discard fastener (nut/bolt) and replace with new.

Have always followed their instructions. Usually, its just the nut (nylock) that is supposed to be replaced. Greasing my wheel bearings. Have to remove radius rods. Manual says replace nuts on outer radius rod bolts to hub. Got new OEM nuts from Polaris.

Nothing about bolts.

Torque to 100 foot pounds per manual. A 12MM X 1.5, 10.9 bolt should be able to take about 135+ foot pounds.

Hit 90 foot pounds. Snap.



I think I am going to also replace the bolt when the service manual says just replace the nut on critical components. Like suspension!

P.S. Its not a harbor freight torque wrench problem.




My hunch is the original threads/bolt got stretched correctly the first time. Second time around, nope. Especially with a new nut.
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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Yup, bolts can only take so many torque to yield procedures, or tighter as some do.

I’m not gonna say I replace every bolt or nut every time, but I do from time to time if I’ve been pulling stuff apart a few times.

That being said, the primary clutch bolt is very subject to breaking after repeated use... especially if you use an impact on it... I don’t use an impact on it, but I do replace that bolt at least every other time I pull the clutch...secondary too... those aren’t fun to get out if they break... and can be pretty catastrophic if they break under operation


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Denver, CO - 303-400-0205
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Curious, are you running factory or aftermarket radius rods? Aftermarket ones adjusted incorrectly can stress and shear the mounting bolts.

If OEM, it is most likely just a bad bolt. It happens, but not very common. I have seen it more with the smaller 10x1.25 bolts.

We replace nuts every time. Bolts we inspect and reuse if ok, except on racecars where we replace every bolt every time.
 

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You weren't by chance using any lubricant were you? Products such as anti-seize, thread locker or even oil that got on will throw off a torque wrench.

Learned this on my HD5 beadlocks. Put anti-seize on them and was breaking them before I got to 12lbs. They are all torqued to 7.5 now and are holding just fine.
 

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If they say replace they are most likely TTY. So they have been stretched the first time and need new from now on. Also, even so, that is a big bolt, but I think I would go a little easy on it next time anyway. 90 ft/lbs is a lot.
 

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That's why I don't take the wheel studs to the full torque. Almost. Axle castle nuts, yes.

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Discussion Starter #10
Curious, are you running factory or aftermarket radius rods? Aftermarket ones adjusted incorrectly can stress and shear the mounting bolts.

If OEM, it is most likely just a bad bolt. It happens, but not very common. I have seen it more with the smaller 10x1.25 bolts.

We replace nuts every time. Bolts we inspect and reuse if ok, except on racecars where we replace every bolt every time.
Stock radius rods.

No lube. Had taken them apart last year to grease wheel bearings. New nuts and torque to 100.

Just got back from Taylor. LOTS of water!!!! WE joked TRE stands for Trails & Rivers Edition. One spot, buddy filmed me and I was actually drifting sideways it was so deep & strong.

Figured I should probably grease the wheel bearings again. Used new nuts again and the second one snapped. Two others are feeling iffy about getting close to 100. Gonna replace all 4 and pick up some spares.
 
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