Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2016 RZR 900s (not that it matters) and I am pulling the transmission out to replace my broken reverse chain with the SuperATV one and I ran into a bit of a problem. So I had to pull my primary clutch off and it was 11:00 at night and I knew I could have the transmission out that night if I kept going, but I all I had was a puller for a RZR 800 so it wasn't quite long enough to reach the crank on my 900. I figured whatever no big deal and shoved a 9 mm deep socket in the hole and then put the puller in... well long story short the socket got shoved into the threads of my crank, I ended up having to use grease and "hydraulic pressure" to get the clutch off which actually worked very well, I had to drill the socket out of my crank until it was thin enough to bust it up with a screw driver and a hammer. Got the socket out cleaned up the hole real good and started to run my bolt into the crank just to check my threads because I knew there was a very good chance they were screwed, bolt started okay and I felt a little resistance but ended up being and to run it all the way in and back out with just a ratchet, it wasn't the easiest thing to do and it was trying to turn the motor over the entire time but I got it in and out. I did that a couple more times and made sure I cleaned the hole up every time. The latest thing I did was run a die on my old bolt and made it into a "thread chaser". (New bolt is on the way) I ran that in and out 4 times last night and right now it’s to the point where I can just about run it all the way in and all the way out by turning the bolt with my hand, but I don't like settling for "good enough". So basically my question is what to do from this point, I can either one, run a tap in the hole and try to fix the threads, I haven't done that yet because everything I’ve been reading has told me I am going to end up weakening the existing threads in the hole because a tap actually cuts into the metal and then my bolt won’t hold torque and is going to be loose in the hole. I believe this theory somewhat but I just don't know. Two, I can try tapping it and if I screw the threads and my bolt is loose and won’t hold torque I can put a Heli coil in it which I really would like to avoid doing, three I can leave it as it is and just run it in when I put my clutch back on and hope for the best which would keep it on my mind every time I ride my RZR. Other than those 3 ideas I can't think of anything else I could possibly do besides letting a machine shop weld in the hole and re tap it or replacing the crank. Any ideas all have would be helpful, just let me know what you think because at this point I and stuck between a rock and a hard place. Sorry for the long story but thanks in advance.

641807
641808
 

Attachments

·
Aspiring Perfectionist
Joined
·
2,644 Posts
Was it worth it? lol, sorry to chuckle at your expense, we commonly call that the "charge ahead" mentality around my parts, so many bad things result from straying from the correct method to "get er done"

None of those options are great as you know, and you've definitely comprised the integrity of the threads a bit, but if you can pretty much get the bolt all the way in and out by hand, I would just run it as it and re check the torque on the primary bolt after the first few rides. If it stays tight, then It's probably safe to get it out of your head, if it loosens, then revisit the other options at that time. Permatex now makes a threadlocker "orange" which i just recently started using, it's supposed to have the strength of Red, but still come loose like blue, might be something to consider for that situation.

One other thing to note is to make sure you didn't spin the engine backwards very much while tightening the first time. Spinning the engine backwards can slack the timing chain and cause it to jump timing. You can check the timing by pulling the valve cover and turning the engine over (the correct direction, counterclockwise looking at the crank)... there's two sets of hash marks on both cams that will line up with the head casting at the same time, just check to make sure they're not out of whack and you'll be good.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top