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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the SATV skid plate installed. 1/2" and a fair price. I used my compact track loader to set the Turbo R on it's side.

I didn't use the self tapping screws. My experience with them is if you take them out more than once or twice you need a bigger screw and so on and so on... My first thought was 6mm nutserts. I drilled the first hole with a 3/8" bit as the bit went through it grabbed the thin metal and ripped a larger hole. A 8mm nutsert was too small too for that oblong hole. So I changed plans and started drilling the holes and tapping them with a 6mm tap. I had the drill bit in one drill and the tap in another. Still took awhile but I got it done. I also used anti seize on the bolts as I just took the skid plate off of my Ranger and the bolts were badly rusted and a couple broke off.

The good thing is the skid plate is multiple pieces so it's easier to work with, no expensive shipping charges and you can just take off the piece that you need to gain access.
The bad news is you gotta drill lots of holes!

Thanks @SuperATV for another good product. Do you have any plans for UHMW protection for the front a arms and rear trailing arms?
Tire Plant Wheel Automotive tire Sky
 

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I got the SATV skid plate installed. 1/2" and a fair price. I used my compact track loader to set the Turbo R on it's side.

I didn't use the self tapping screws. My experience with them is if you take them out more than once or twice you need a bigger screw and so on and so on... My first thought was 6mm nutserts. I drilled the first hole with a 3/8" bit as the bit went through it grabbed the thin metal and ripped a larger hole. A 8mm nutsert was too small too for that oblong hole. So I changed plans and started drilling the holes and tapping them with a 6mm tap. I had the drill bit in one drill and the tap in another. Still took awhile but I got it done. I also used anti seize on the bolts as I just took the skid plate off of my Ranger and the bolts were badly rusted and a couple broke off.

The good thing is the skid plate is multiple pieces so it's easier to work with, no expensive shipping charges and you can just take off the piece that you need to gain access.
The bad news is you gotta drill lots of holes!

Thanks @SuperATV for another good product. Do you have any plans for UHMW protection for the front a arms and rear trailing arms?
View attachment 705287
Awesome! Thanks @littleboss !
We're already making the trailing arm guards for the 1000 and Turbo models, so I'm sure we'll knock them out for the Pro R and Turbo R too. We are close to having the front A-arms ready for it, and the full trailing arms shouldn't be far behind. I'm betting the guards will be in the works very soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't like this drilling / tapping. At all. Has to be a better design utilizing all OEM locations.
Lot's of work for sure but it has better coverage than stock AND if I need to repair something underneath I only have to take off the section that I need- not the whole thing...
 

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About half of my original bolts broke off. So I drilled and tapped and went with SS bolts one size bigger. Depending on the size, you can skip from metric to standard thread or visa versa, and it ends up sort of a half size bigger.

And used anti-seize. If you find they vibrate out , use blue locktite instead. Anything coating the threads is better than rust.

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