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I have e-track in my toy hauler ( bolted through)
I put e-track on my flatbed with 2 inch lags and have not had any problems.


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Since you drew "b" at an angle, the order or strength (best to worst) is C,B,A.

The E-track offers more flexibility in machine weight difference vis a via balance (if that matters), and/or different machines and load-outs.

"A" since it implies tiring to the suspension, is out. It's also only puling one way. Not awful, but if you start losing straps that can have consequence.

I'd do "C: and use the open rear D rings to have an extra strap holding it back. It's the most flexible, the strongest, and equally redundant with "B". Also, note you can bolt E-trak down a hell of a lot of places. D-rings can be done plenty strong, but I'd re-enforce that mount myself.

An important rule of thumb I learned from an old trucker: Stap any load so that you can loose two tie-downs and feel completely safe (rules our "a"

You could just use regular straps through the rims and accomplish the same things as tire nets and "A" as too.
 

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We've done this for 9 years, thousands of miles across all the western US, with zero issue:

664634


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So we know option B works well.

The only issue we've had was on a long day's driving returning from Utah; one tire had a slow leak we didn't know about. the ratchet strap came loose from over the tire, but the other three were there so <shrugs> wasn't really an issue. ;)

...Interestingly, we just started going places with our new XP 1k, and we're using Erickson chocks and e-track straps. So that works too.

BTW, here's an excellent source for ratchet straps...exactly the way you need them, good prices too.

Custom Tie Downs

All the best, James
 

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I switched from regular ratchet straps to over the wheel straps and love it. Drove from Indiana to Tennessee and back and it never budged an inch. Plus the trailer pulled better with the suspension absorbing the bumps.
 

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664652

For you Mac’s users: do you orient all the ratchets the same way? Or are the rears toward the rear. With the fender extension/mud flap my front ratchets have to be in front of the wheels.
Also, do you trailer in Park or Neutral? A friends neighbor who races says they never use Park when trailering, though I think he’s not using wheel nets.
Does Dynamix setting make any difference? Polaris wants us in Comfort mode when using straps, then double checking the mode after tightening down.
One last question: will Highway Patrol look for straps even if you’re rock solid with Mac’s tightened down?
 

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I tie my Mac's to stake pockets with their chains, so my setup is a little different, but I have the ratchets in front of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels. You certainly could flip that if that's how your anchor points work out. The most important point is to have two strips pulling forward and two straps pulling rearward, thus preventing the car from moving either direction.

I try to trailer in neutral, as there's no point in stressing the parking pawl, but I admit that I've left it in park a few times without issue. I have Dynamix, and the owner's manual has specific recommendations on the suspension settings if you're attaching to the frame. IMHO, you should never attach to the frame, or any sprung portion of the vehicle. Always tie down to unsprung components (wheels, tires, or suspension parts).
 

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For you Mac’s users: do you orient all the ratchets the same way? Or are the rears toward the rear. With the fender extension/mud flap my front ratchets have to be in front of the wheels.
Also, do you trailer in Park or Neutral? A friends neighbor who races says they never use Park when trailering, though I think he’s not using wheel nets.
Does Dynamix setting make any difference? Polaris wants us in Comfort mode when using straps, then double checking the mode after tightening down.

One last question: will Highway Patrol look for straps even if you’re rock solid with Mac’s tightened down?
All our over-wheel ratchets are on the "outside" of the tire (front tires, on the front side; rear tires, the ratchet is on the back of the tire).
Otherwise it's a PITA to get to them. I have noticed doing this pulls the tires subtly apart, placing some tension in the system, but it hasn't been a problem

We also don't use Mac Straps per se, but do use wheel nets inside our toyhauler. We used them on the utility trailer for a while but it was much more work placing them instead of a single strap:
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As far as trailering in Park or Neutral, we definitely place our RZR in Neutral. As soon as you see how flimsy the Park fork is on a RZR you'll do the same.


Lastly, although the definitions for "secured load" vary from state to state, one of the folks we ride with occasionally is a Highway Patrol Trooper. He said anyone with common sense would see that four tires secured is adequate, he also said that a trooper with a sharp pencil might write you if they were having a grumpy day. Troopers like chain, apparently. To this end we did this rear and front:


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The chain length is long enough it doesn't hinder upward suspension travel. And with the snap hooks, it takes maybe 15 seconds to place them on the rear. Here's how it looks in the big picture:

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Last thing: we were worried about leaving the RZR on the trailer, like we were inside a restaurant or overnight at a hotel or something.

So we did this at the front, makes the front end secured for a Trooper, and would at least slow down a thief:

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All the best, James
 

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All ratchets on inside. Easier to get to on my trailer. I tighten them in a patern like torquing lug nuts not circular. Otherwise the car shifts a little and they loosen. I use the parking brake.
 

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All ratchets on inside. Easier to get to on my trailer. I tighten them in a patern like torquing lug nuts not circular. Otherwise the car shifts a little and they loosen. I use the parking brake.
Sure enough true, you can see how it all depends on what's easiest for your access and leverage.

All the best, James
 

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I run 4 straps, 2 from the front “hook” under to outside by rear tires , 2 from the rear “hook” to the outside by the front tires. Suspension still works and have not had any straps come loose. Did the same with my quad for 10+ years and never had one come loose


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I use these straps, have never had any movement. The center strap from the front of RZR to front of trailer is just a backup on very long trips.
664688
 

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Sure is nice to see a lot of peeps on here using the tire bonnets. I can't believe all the $30k+ cars I see going down the freeway with cheap ratchet straps attached to front and back tow points (sprung weight).

I just don't get it.
??
 

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Why doesn't anyone just go through the tire like they do with cars? 1 strap per tire pulling front and back.

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The biggest errors I've ever seen were from people who trusted their initial tie-down and don't check it a few miles down the road.

I highly recommend to everyone that you strap it down, drive a few miles, then tighten everything again as the vehicle will "settle."
 

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Anyone using L Track instead of E track? I have a new 8.5' x 28' Legend Trailmaster enclosed on order and in the process of planning flooring and tie downs. Seems to me that the narrow L Track is going work out better in terms of installing the Ribtrax flooring tiles. I have always towed with straps over the tires hooked to D Rings on my 20' open trailer. I'll likely switch to the wheel bonnets and L track going forward.
 

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I vote for Macs. I have cargo equipment tire harness but it's more hassle than I like... switching to Macs.

Did you see the fairly recent post where the guy was pulling a 5th wheel, then sxs on trailer behind it... didn't have something right and damaged the truck, camper and trailer/ sxs. Trailer was on its side but the sxs was still in place using Macs tire nets.
I think it's on macs facebook now.

There are endless ways to tie down but i think the macs are the quickest, strongest and safe way. Only downside is no lateral pull. Proper tie down would normally be opposite direction at angles.

Pick an option and go with it. Macs can attach to e track among other tracks too if you want to go that route.
 
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