opcorn:

 

Vent racing advertises kits like this...bolt on..I have no experience with them

 

Mustang 5.0 retailers.....LOL! That is so true. I just bought my 2010 S so gonna have to subscribe to this one.

 

Not meaning for this to sound as if am slamming vendors or anything! Just dealt with alot of the aforementioned 5.0 mods for customers cars who had bought their own parts without consulting someone in the know! I'm new to this rzr game and have so far seen where people have been somewhat disappointed with bolt on mods they purchased. Would like to learn from other's mistakes! Just hunting for solid advice!

 

From reading posts on this same subject, I don't think you have many options. You might see a slight gain on a combination of improvements, but I don't think your going to get a mild seat of the pants feeling on hill climbs without going over your limit. Maybe Im wrong, mine is all stock, but I have driven some others with add-ons and they seem the same to me. Looking for someone with other ideas.....

opcorn:

 

I'm curious Brian,
Did you ever find any of those claims for a mod to make a quick 5+ hp in the Mustang ever ring true?

 

$1500 might get you at most 6 hp

 

I was going to spend money on mods,but after i saw the price of the mods and everything i think i am going turbo or weber,mods deserve the money but later you are going to see a long list of stuff that you bought for a price of a turbo,but it is your choice in the end MODSvsTURBO.

 

He is correct, those bolt on mods really are a waste of money, the HP per dollar just doesn't add up. Save up for a turbo or BB kit, or do nothing and save even more money.

 

You can get about 20 hp for about $1700 from H.P.D., his race kit.

 

how much hp does hpd trail kit produce?

 

I dont think its much different maybe 4 or 5 hp, mostly because of the pistons. He told me the 12.2 pistons for good for about 3 horsepower, so with the big valved head a cam this should be some safe numbers. But I know Darrell could tell you the hp difference and answer any other questions you may have.

 

Do the 20hp really deserve the money?If your rzr has 30hp 30+20=50 so dose 50hp deserve the money?you could triple your horse power with a turbo 30x3=90, it is your choice at the end, i am now saving for weber or a turbo.

 

I think everyone is talking about crank HP, not wheel HP.
Stock RZR has about 50HP give or take 3-4HP.

The Holz big bore kit is reported to put out about 70HP I think. A pretty good option for the trail guys in my opinion.

The sand duners will get more bang for the buck from a turbo.

 

If you are feeling you were feeling a bog,ie not enough power on a trail type hill...let me guess they were climbing in high range? Just use low....might not be real fast but should climb just about any trail hill in low without bogging..you'd loose traction before the engine bogged..
Maybe a good clutch kit...other than that...leave the bolt on's IMO...

BTW the turbo isn't just for the Dune guys..I think the turbo is actually great on the trails..I get part throttle boost all the time climbing hills...it is definitely a different machine..in a good way. I can use high on those hills..lol

 

What about a ZEX Nitrous kit running a 10 shot. Not a lot of money and at that level you should not be going through a lot of gas and if I understand correctly, that level is still pretty safe on the engine without other mods. Anybody have any real world experience with this set up?

 

Yea was running high range on the hills. Don't think low range would really be a option. Ideally what I need is a middle range ie: a little lower low range, something splitting the current gear ratios, and high range. Yea their were some 5.0 mods that offered great seat of the pants power for the price paid but alot that were not. Like i stated, i'm new to the rzr world and hunting real world op for bolt on mods hp offering. Most have stated that my money would be better saved for a turbo/bb kit, right now neither of those will be possible.

Brian

 

Why was low not an option? Too slow? How fast were yall running?

Anyway,A clutch kit can help. I'd call one of the clutch kit companies and tell them what you want to do
I'm guessing You'll likely have to get the engagement rpm up pretty good.

 

Has anyone tried the S&S air intake system with or without their exhaust and ECU? They claim 4 hp just for the intake. I am also a tight and twisty trail rider and also don't have the cash for a turbo either. Would like 12-20 more hp without breaking the bank!!

 

$1,500 spent at wellers got me 10 hp dyno proven with my old rhino. call them up see what they can do....

 

http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific-discussion/21064-rzr-s-dyno.html

 

I would be guessing 15/25mph on the downhill portion, varied according to the terrain, wasn't really looking at the speedo as much as watching where I was going since A: it was not my rzr and B: it was like the 2nd or 3rd ride it had been on. A 3 range case would be ideal for me but that's not happening!!! I guess I will ride basically stock till the motor get's tired then go from their? Anybody got a timeframe/mileage that these engines get to before rebuild time hits? I know it varies according to riding conditions/maintance, just looking for a general outline.

Brian

 

The stock motor is not going to breath any better no matter what you put in front of it or behind it. You can add the biggest intake and exhaust and it's not going to change how much air is going through the motor. The throttle body is too small, the head ports are too small, the valves are too small, and the cam is too small. So you either need to open up the motor and let more air through or push it through with a turbo. Nothing else is going to give you more than about 5hp!
Holz gets their numbers with STOCK intake and STOCK exhaust. In fact they recommend the stock intake for their kits.

I went down this road just like tons of other people and unlike most people I am willing to admit that it was a waste.

I added Muzzys and was able to hit the rev limiter on pavement for the first time...I remember thinking "wow this thing must have an extra 10hp". Fast forward to the next dune trip and the ONLY difference was the sound. So then I added a fuel controller and thought "now this thing is really gonna fly" only to find out that the tiny gain I got from the exhaust was caused by leaning out the overly rich stock setup and the fuel controller put it right back where it was. Darnit! So then I got a clutch kit and said "holy crap this thing really launches now" only to find out that the "launch" was the least of my worries. At some point I added an intake too and that did nothing.

Thats when I decided to open the motor up and let it breath. I went with the Holz stage 3 because it was a lot easier than piecing all the stuff together but it's not the only was to go. If you're gonna start with something, I would start with the head and throttle body.

 

Well said..same goes for just about every ATV I've ever owned(only Can-Am's and Polaris'),heck just about anything with a engine period. IMO the way they "regualte" the potential is in the head/valves/cam..pretty smart IMO..makes it harder to tap power without doing something that obviously voids the warranty. The know everybody and their brother runs a pipe,fuel controller and intake..those things are pretty easily removed for warranty work..not too hard to design an engine that won't benefit much from any of those..