Off subject but could i get you to send me a few more pictures of the doors ? Like looking over them from the outside i have a set similar and just not liking the fitment Wondering if its just the nature of the doors or if my rig is twisted some how
Thanks

 

These engines make all kinds of noises so without hearing it it would be difficult to diagnose. Likely normal noises. I run an oil with a additive package (high zinc content) especially for this type of engine. Here is a link for your next oil change or you could just switch it out now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JF2LPSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I’ll try and get a video , but wow they don’t give that stuff away

 

Nope, but it's very hard to find an extra zinc oil and the additives you can buy make it just as expensive when you change your oil.

 

should I stick with the factory 5w50 or bump it up to the 10-15 w 40 weight and I’ve used joe Gibbs racing oil also just not in this application

 

That's actually a bump down in oil weight. The high number is the viscosity at normal temperature. The low numbers are to help flow at super cold temps. Run 5 or 10 w 50 oil. I add a zinc additive to a good synthetic oil because of the flat tappet cam. Mobile1, Royal Purple. Amsoil is considered the best in all testing I've seen. It only holds 2 quarts so cost isn't much compared to your car or truck.

 

Personal choice. Depends on how warm your climate is if you jump up to heavier oils. I stick to the 5-50. Just try to get as much zinc in the oil as you can for these flat tappet cam engines.

 

From the photos that's a clean looking Rzr from the photos. Welcome to the forum. And as @scubadnv those motors are a bit noisy as was mine and you seem to be on the right track with what you've checked. The 800 was real particular about having the oil at the full mark. One thing with that kind of miles could be to check your valve lash as you might have some out of tolerance valves.

 

She wasn’t clean when I got it lol buy it cheap and fix it up I’m going have to replace everything no matter if it’s a 2020 or a 2011 , I’ve ordered about 3 grand just in parts this week for it to get it back up to par , but I’m glad to hear that these engines are typically noisy , I’m an auto technician by trade so I like to go through my stuff before I get stranded and usually go overboard in the process , I’ll order a shim kit for it tonight as I should have some anyway and check my lash for sure but I swear it sounds like a slow lifter until she’s pumped up . If it ain’t broke don’t fix it but I can check my cams when I get the valve cover off eventually I don’t think it’s a flat spot and I’m not getting any shavings from what I can see in my last LOF

 

The pinion nut in the rear gearcase (differential) has been a problem on the 800.

Read the first couple of pages of : The Razor 800 Pinion Nut Repair Video by Les Hansen...

 

Hi, there is no lash to check on the 800 motor, they have hydraulic lifters. Could be a lifter that is slow to pump up?

 

@scubadnv Thanks on that clarification. Never had to dig in to my old 800.

 

Pinion nut replacement as CA 800 said should be on the top of the priority list if it was not done already. I'm sure you will hear that from a hundred other people on here as well.

 

Two things, there are no shims, buckets or anything to adjust valve lash and the pinion nut need to be verified first and foremost.
EZ-RZR the tools are available for doing the pinion nut "dance" and if you put your location in your profile somebody local my have a set of loaner tools as I have here in the Arizona low desert.

 

I already ordered new u-joints and a new slip yolk for the rear on it so I’m sure I can get into the pinion then , what’s the special tool ? The roll pin punch?

 

. . . what’s the special tool ? The roll pin punch?

You need a modified 44mm socket and 1" X 15T splined coupling to properly torque the pinion nut.

 

Ez lives in New Hampshire, anyone in his neck of the woods who can loan him tools to do pinion nut fix?

 

If you’re going to make your own pinion nut tools here is a good place to get a splined coupler.

Hi Peter,
I got the splined connector from Surplus Center, much cheaper than Polaris, $9.70.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands...615-1-1561.axd
1" 15T Splined Coupling 163-1615
Don't know if this is any help as you're in Canada though, looks like it's a standard coupler, 1 inch with 15 splines.

 

I do believe the coupling he is replacing is the coupling that goes between the rear diff and the gear case so it will work.

 

I think the #6 part is what he is talking about replacing, for what reason I don't know but if it is, that used coupler will work.

 

The slip yolk has quite a bit of up and down movement after a couple miles after greasing it , guessing the female splines are worn , so if I’m doing the u-joints over I will just use the old slip yolk as my shaft holder in my vice and kill 2 birds with one stone here and not waste anymore time , reset my trip over the weekend and put 30 miles on it and started the oil at the full line and burned some all the way down to the add line , I think she’s due for some rings so I’m going to put an engine in it after pricing out the head work and new cyl’s etc ….. just waiting to hear back from the company that re-mans them

 

That slip joint likely will not fit the diff input (pinion) shaft. You will need to get a 1 inch 15 spline coupler. They sell them at tractor supply pretty cheap.

 

Did you order OEM yokes? SuperATV has heavy duty versions https://www.superatv.com/polaris-prop-shaft-replacement-replacement-yoke

In the OEM yoke there is a rubber ring. When those go out it allows for more play in the yokes and premature wearing.

 

Spline count is different between drive shaft Slip Yolk, and the rear diff Coupling Spline.

 

If your machine is running good, like throttle response, acceleration, too speeds and not overheating I would say engine is probably sounding normal for these engines. They are little tractor sewing machine type sounding engines if you had a quite one I would be worried 😂😂

Congrats on your new machine man I’m hoping it’s all good and normal sounds and you can rip and enjoy it!!

X2 on pinion nut, yes it has been an issue on these machines and I think they updated the nut or something I would look into that if it were mine.

Really good detail job also will have to second that, mine stay kinda dirty 💯

Not sure I could justify 19$ bucks a quart for oil considering they all about start from the same base and then use additives. But if that helps you sleep better at night run it, I’ve used OEM oil and mobil oil that’s done great. For my Yamahas that run a wet clutch I run OEM Yamalube and for the RZR I run Mobil and both I use OEM filters.

Welcome to the club!! Ride hard and ride safe!!

 

I would run a compression check these engines are notorious for the intake valves tightening up.

 

Welcome to the forum, Nice little ride you picked up, I've spent the last 50+ years in the auto/truck repair biz, worked on pretty much everything from 2 wheels up to 18, I don't know about the 800's but when I bought my 1000 XP it developed a valve train noise, very noisy on startup, went away as engine warmed up, timing chain tensioner was bad, quiet as a mouse now, as far as engine oils go I'm not an additive guy, good quality oils don't need additives Imo, whatever you do don't use Rotella, It's a truck oil, Maxim is a dedicated side by side oil, I lot of guys I know use it, you can order oil change kits from most of the aftermarket outlets, hope this helps, take care and enjoy your adventures!

 

so after all the machine is burning oil , filled it up to the full line , took it out for 30 miles (eyes burning) came back and was down to the add line and oil is black as (dare I say ) and engine is making a lifter tick , I ordered a remanufactured engine from cwrzr parts out of RI and just waiting on it to come in . Im sure it’s eaten it’s fair share of dust so with that being said having 2 known issues with it already and not taking it apart I would rather just start with a fresh build with upgraded parts , after adding up everything I would want to do to the engine to make myself comfortable it came out to be almost the same with headwork, piston and cyl work and that’s not even touching the crank , these engines aren’t like Harley engines in terms of somewhat quality they are cheap as hell compared to a Japan built engine so im cutting my loss and biting the bullet I’ll post pictures when I get the engine and the rest of it ripped apart