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Getting a lot of sag in the rear springs on my 2019. Anybody try rzr aid tenders just on the back of a tre?
 

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Is it sagging from weight of added accessories? Do the shocks have 175 to 200 PSI of nitrogen charge? I carry a lot of gear at times, over 200lbs, but other than having to set ride height a few times past 2 years/2,600 miles and charge nitrogen once, never had springs sag.

Don't think you get much from the tenders, but I have not needed them myself. They would do same as adjusting collars down to get more spring preload to set ride height. If your springs are sagging spend that money on stronger springs. Weigh your ride loaded to get the right springs.

Spring Isolators between the springs rub/squeak. That makes me want a single shock spring.
 

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My collars are down enough that the spring is fully compressed, not sure it can go much more. I measure 14 inches of clearance in front and 11.5 in rear with no gear in bed, gets worse with tools and beer. Have not checked the pressure as I had not thought of that.
 

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I added them to the front/rear for a similar reason, got my height back, much more plush ride in the washboards. But I gained a lot of squat in the rear at WOT and dive in the front in heavy braking senarios....and a lot more body roll. Overall a good investment plus I learned a lot about the machine and shocks/springs along the way. Someday maybe a new setup from ST etc,. But for the time being I’m just going to add crossovers to the rear, and a new front/rear Eibach sway bars, links and support to help with the roll, and I’m thinking I will be all set (we will see ]). All we do is fast trail riding, tons of fire roads/lanes, some paved roads when we have to.
 

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My collars are down enough that the spring is fully compressed, not sure it can go much more. I measure 14 inches of clearance in front and 11.5 in rear with no gear in bed, gets worse with tools and beer. Have not checked the pressure as I had not thought of that.
Wow, don't see much info from TRE owners... I'm not a racer or drive it like I stole it guy. The TRE is not made for that. Here is some solid advice, then let your wallet be your guide.

If you are talking about the rear top spring/tender spring collapsing, that is exactly what it was designed to do. Its purpose is to keep pressure on the main shock spring when suspension is unloaded so the spring has some pressure on it and is not flopping around. That allows it to have so much suspension travel and truth be told, it's a cheaper way to get it. That little spring was not designed to support weight under a load. Just takes up slack when needed such as when rock crawling and one wheel is unloaded with suspension at full droop.

If your collars are down to point of the large lower spring not maintaining ride height that's a different issue. That spring has either failed or the shock internals are locked up binding it such as shock shaft bent and shock wont extend like it should. Takes a hard hit to do that and other suspension stuff will be damaged as well.

There are a lot of threads left on my shocks even when loaded heavy. However, I usually set ride height without riders, just 200-300lbs if gear in bed, tires at 16psi and measured from frame mounted suspension points that should never change. Can't go by skid plate. You don't want it sitting way higher because that creates suspension geometry problems and increases wear on axle CV joints at severe angles. After I set ride height I air tires down to 10psi and it's good for another 6 months or year before I need to touch those springs again. All springs will sag some over time and eventually wear out.

Ride height with the Walker Evans shocks is very important. The needle valve shocks get stiffer as they are compressed to prevent bottoming out hard. So if ride height is in the lower stroke it will ride more harsh even with clickers backed off.

Lot of adjustments on these shocks. The nitrogen charge is overlooked because most people don't have the proper nitrogen tank, high pressure line, gauges with valves to charge and or check it. Local club might hook you up with a member who does or your dealership should be able to do this easy adjustment. Need nitrogen pressure set with suspension at full droop before changing spring settings.

I suggest you adjust your suspension properly with 200psi nitrogen (per shock therapy), set ride height and then clickers. After that, if not satisfied go all out on a quality spring kit like this.

I hope this helped you and others. So much great information on this forum about shocks and suspension. However, keep in mind that the suspension on our TRE and the Walker Evans shocks will not be the same as other units. It's a great trail rig and crawler. Not the best for racing or mud out of the box. Cheaper to start with a different rig for those chores. JMHO
 

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If you’re not racing And need the full upgraded springs alternative then you won’t be disappointed with the rzr aid tender springs. Installed mine (on xpt4 tho) and brought ride height back up and took all the preload I had cranked into oem setup out of it. Rides so much smoother and performs rock crawling way better than before. So much hype on the forum about shock therapy but if you don’t have or want to spend that kind of money the rzr aid tenders will work for you. Polaris design is a cheaper way to have dual rate springs. They just rely on the coil bind to transfer weight instead of crossover rings. Problem with popo is all the springs they use are poor quality. The rzr aid is taller and heavier rate spring vs the Polaris tender. Ride and ride height is improved pretty darn good for only a couple hundred bucks. We just got back from some pretty good rock crawlin at hawk pride in Alabama. First big test for them since On our Rzr’s and they didn’t settle any at all. Check out or upcoming videos of the trip on our YouTube channel!!

Body roll will increase and you will experience a softer feel. Same with shock therapy. If your oem tenders are collapsed then you are riding solely on your main spring at a rate of around 285lbs per inch depending on your particular rzr. That’s a lot stiffer ride. Rzr aid spring won’t collapse so you’re actually riding on the combined spring rates that with physics and all that crap that will be somewhere around 150lbs ish.

If your racing or have the money. Go with a full setup. If you’re not racing and just simply want a cheaper way better than oem ride save your money for a better upgrade on something else and do the tender springs
 

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You can get rzr aid tenders and buy crossovers for about 100$ for all four from eibach website and would have the plush ride and can tune i the bodyroll and dive pretty easy and save yourself a boatload or cash over ST
 

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Guys, It's great to respond to those seeking help, but keep in mind every rig is a little different and the TRE is designed for a totally different purpose. It works great for the rough trails it was designed for. The spring design greatly reduces risk of roll overs. No one ever talks about that!

Crash, The popo small spring on the TRE is designed to collapse. It was made to do that. Just there to keep tension on the main REAR spring under max droop when suspension is fully extended. By doing this it also prevents that top heavy issue on steep side hills and off camber turns. It works exactly as designed if you think about the intended rocky trail use as seen in the attached article.

Hlrgr, the TRE Front Shocks do not use two springs and it has no room to add one. It has a single progressive spring with coils at the top that collapse before the center of the spring gets stiffer.. He would have to buy both springs designed for the TRE front, the RZR aid kit doesn't work for this application.

SpringFront2.jpeg

The rocky trails shown in this article are where this rig shines. No front sway bar helps it keep tires on the ground letting it articulate well. Sticky tires and a super low gear make it work better on rocky trails than other rigs out of the box. The small spring collapses on rear helping it stay flatter in off camber rock crawling trails. I would buy the 4 seat version if they made it 64 inches wide and kept the wheelbase nearly the same. This design works for it's purpose. Changing springs for added weight capacity might be good once stock settings have been optimized and don't work for you. Make informed decisions. Making your wallet thinner is not always the answer.

 

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🤣 got ya pro4driver....glad I’ve never taken my rig on rocky trails Since it’s a turbo and only made for speed I’d probably been in for way more Than I bargained for ....google rzr turbo lions den

but seriously ...it’s not like several 1000xp models had the single progressive front spring and it’s also not like rzraid makes a specific package for that which includes the front divider ....nor is it likely we put said package on my neighbors rock and trail edition and have seen its benefit in the last dozen rides we’ve been on.

setup your rzr for the proper ride height and you’re not going to have excessive problems in off camber situations . Put the crossovers in like I suggested and you’ll prevent bottom outs and can Set them to come in wherever you want .....mean time the rides better in nearly all situations and it’s way cheaper than ST. oP asked about tenders and you can do just the rear but it’s nowhere as nice
 

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Here’s the wife headed through the den. Are you the 4 seater that went through it about a year ago? Nice job. It’s a tough trail.
 

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Yeah saw your videos man she looked awesome ....that was us....man pics and stuff just don’t do it justice ! gear reduction on my 18 dynamix really helped ...just picked up a 2021 turbo S thinking that’s gonna be one of the first things we do this winter . I don’t think I’m going to do the ranger low this time though man it was low ...fun but 😳
 

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No justice at all. Makes hills look like nothing and surprisingly makes the rocks look so much smaller too. We just did the ranger reduction on both ours with the 35’s and freakin love it. We just got back from hawk pride. Got some video coming. Fattys crack is awesome trail. Y’all have to try it if you haven’t already.
 

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would love to make it down that way just kinda spoiled between Kentucky and TN there’s so much riding to do within a 4 hour drive we don’t seem to venture out ....we’ll definitely put that one on the list thanks !
 

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That’s true. Wish we lived in eastern ky/tn area. Be a surrounded by all the good stuff!
 
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