Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
///AIRDAM Clutches
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
You guys have not seen us on the forums much, we have not been in the polaris world long. We started with Arctic Cats quite a few years ago and have continually grown since then. We have played with quite a few Polaris machines over the last year, we have been doing the Regular RZR, RZR S, for a year now, but have not done a big spill in advertising simply because we have been so swamped with current orders from Cat, Zuki, Yammers, and Can-ams, that we have not had the time to truly devote to the Polaris guys like we should have. We know about every clutch kit on the market that is available for Polaris, but remember, we dont build clutch kits, we build a completely new replacement primary for your machine. Why? here is why...






I am sure some of you have seen this video, i went back and re-read the original post where a member posted it here. Some of you owners were interested, and i have sold quite a few of these setups for the RZR XP 900. There were a few brand loyalists that talked bad about the work we do, and claimed this setup was not worth the money for the gains shown, well let me tell you what all our setup does, and gives, and costs.


First and foremost, the Polaris primary clutch, in its simplicity, works very well for the average user. Most owners can simply install a clutch kit and get the gains they are looking for. The main issue with the Polaris factory primary is its 3 weight flyweight design. Most any Polaris owner can notice the "mushy" or "muddy" feel of the stock clutch at engagement. When you give the machine some throttle, at slow technical speeds you can feel a soft mushy engagement that lacks a good punch. Why? Because of the stock 3 arms of the primary. These 3 flyweight arms have to overcome the rollers in the spyder, and press the movable sheave closed to the belt in order to get you going. With these 3 primary weights, there is simply not enough clamping force to adequately give you a positive feel of what the clutch and belt are doing. Most every owner, loves his machine, only a select few will want more out of their clutch setup, but for those, we have a setup for you.

The CVtech primary, is a completely new replacement primary that will replace your existing primary clutch. Your factory primary has 3 flyweights, the CVtech primary has 6 slider block weights. Yes many of you sled guys will say "this is old sled technology and sleds dont use it anymore" and you are certainly right, but this setup will blow a stock setup out of the water in an ATV and UTV. An ATV/UTV have much greater loads on the machine and clutches than a sled, and this particular slider clutch gives far greater clamping force on the belt to give you a 100% positive clutch engagement to the belt so you can clearly feel what is going on.

This clutch setup is amazing for technical riders like rock climbers, and slow technical riders who need a clutch setup that is super smooth, and engages the belt firmly so that you can clearly feel the on/off engagement. The CVtech primary engages smooth as butter, and we can make it engage at 1600-1700RPM so you have a super smooth, amazing technical riding capability. Having a clutch setup so that you can easily sneeze on the throttle and make the machine grab and go, with -0- belt slip ever since there are 6 weights clamping down on the belt, you have a much firmer and more positive feel.

If you are one of the guys who has already done power mods to your engine and just wanna go fast, AWESOME!!! This clutch setup, again has more weights in the primary, and gives greater clamping force on the belt, to make you launch off the line harder, and accelerate quicker since you never slip a belt, PLUS the CVtech after i machine it, is a larger diameter than your stock clutch. We can gain an 11-12% taller gear ratio, since the clutch is a larger diameter. On our first test machines, we ran them on a dyno up to the rev limiter, and would see 93-94mph on the dash. Out on the Ground, you are purely limited by your machines power as to what your top speed would be, but for acceleration and top speed hungry guys, we have the setup for you.

Are you a slow speed technical trail rider or mountain climber and hate that the XP900 does not have engine braking? Well we have the solution. Our CVtech clutches we build all have a one-way bearing. You have to specifically ask to have it removed if you dont want it. If you want your XP900 to have engine braking and hold you back as you descend a hill, we have you covered!

Any big mud tire guys in the house, believe me we have been catering to you for years building setups that hold the belt better, and give you a lower gear ratio at take-off to help pull the bigger tires. Our setups not only gain you a lower gear ratio, putting the belt lower in the primary and higher in the secondary to gain more low end, but the 6 weights in the primary clamp the belt harder than the stock 3 weight primary so that you have a firmer belt pinch so you wont ever slip a belt in any thick nasty situations.

In the video you can clearly see the ///AIRDAM clutched machine is clearly faster in a drag race, and easily pulls harder out of the hole. This is doe to the CVtech primary having a lower starting gear ratio, firmer belt pinch with 6 primary weights that eliminate belt slip on hard launches, plus the CVtech primary is a shorter design, more compact, and weighs less. The more compact design, with all the weight placed towards the center of the clutch, reduces unsprung mass the crankshaft has to turn, plus the CVtech primary being lighter than the OEM clutch allows the machine to rev faster, which in turn equates to faster acceleration.

We built 3 machines for one owner last August, and he ran them thru the baja 1000 this last year with no failures and not a single belt blown. He now uses his machine for fast paced woods riding, and rock climbing derbys. He has been a wonderful tester, and after 8 months of riding and beating the machines apart every one of his buddies that has an XP, also now owns the same clutch he does. We can easily build you a setup to suit your needs. It does not matter if you want an all-around setup for duning and open desert, or strictly mud with big tires, or high elevations, or strictly drag racing your buddies. I can build to suit, and will gladly help you out perform any other setup on the market.

For you guys with TURBOs, and huge ALBA motors, we also sell the full STM setups. We can build you a complete STM primary and secondary setup to suit your needs if you have huge power. Our CVtech primary wont handle but about 120hp reliably, so for owners who have go-fast in their blood and need a bullet proof go-fast setup we can help you out and get you fixed up. If you are interested in a setup, send us an email and answer these questions and i will give you your options and help get you dialed in completely.

Every owner who calls in, or emails, gets asked a series of questions to help us build a complete setup for him.
1) make and model
2) motor mods, bolt ons, ect
3) tire size
4) riding style, what do you do with the machine, how aggressive of a rider are you
5) what is your preference of engagement of the clutch, super butter smooth, semi-aggressive, full out race aggressive ect.
6) elevation







Adam Harvey
601-218-9065
Airdam Clutches - For People Who Want to Go Fast!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,733 Posts
Interesting. Are you confident enough in your clutch's superiority that, if I were to order one, run it for 30 days and find out that I didn't like it, you'd refund my money?

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I gave one a shot, I kept smoking belt with the stock clutch. And while slow technical riding the engagement with the stock clutch and a clutch kit was not smooth enough for me. So I tried the Airdam clutch out and no more smoked belts and butter smooth engagement. I use my rzr for rock crawling with 30" dominators and mud riding with 48lbs 29.5" Outlaw2 mud tires and I could not be happier with setup. It simple math the 6 weights of the Airdam clutch have a ton more clamping force versus the 3 weights of the factory primary.
 

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
I gave one a shot, I kept smoking belt with the stock clutch. And while slow technical riding the engagement with the stock clutch and a clutch kit was not smooth enough for me. So I tried the Airdam clutch out and no more smoked belts and butter smooth engagement. I use my rzr for rock crawling with 30" dominators and mud riding with 48lbs 29.5" Outlaw2 mud tires and I could not be happier with setup. It simple math the 6 weights of the Airdam clutch have a ton more clamping force versus the 3 weights of the factory primary.

no, just no. that is an extremely ignorant statement. can am stock clutches use 6 weights, yet going to a 3 weight primary is a huge upgrade. three weights vs six has absolutely ZERO bearing on clamping force, since too much clamping force = lower shift out and too little = higher shift out, compared to optimal.

there are several ways to smooth out the engagement with the stock polaris primary, either with stock weights or aftermarket.

99% of all problems in a flyweight clutch are caused by improper setup.
 

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
First and foremost, the Polaris primary clutch, in its simplicity, works very well for the average user. Most owners can simply install a clutch kit and get the gains they are looking for. The main issue with the Polaris factory primary is its 3 weight flyweight design. Most any Polaris owner can notice the "mushy" or "muddy" feel of the stock clutch at engagement. When you give the machine some throttle, at slow technical speeds you can feel a soft mushy engagement that lacks a good punch. Why? Because of the stock 3 arms of the primary. These 3 flyweight arms have to overcome the rollers in the spyder, and press the movable sheave closed to the belt in order to get you going. With these 3 primary weights, there is simply not enough clamping force to adequately give you a positive feel of what the clutch and belt are doing. Most every owner, loves his machine, only a select few will want more out of their clutch setup, but for those, we have a setup for you.

a 3 weight flyweight clutch design is NOT an issue. it works very well and has proven to work well for decades. having three weights has no impact on the mushy feel of the stock engagement. your marketing is pathetic due to a severe lack of knowledge of flyweight clutches. you can make drastic changes to the feel of engagement simply by changing the air gap. you can also change the weight to roller position, change primary spring, and if you're feeling froggy you can grind the engagement area of the weights and get exactly the feel you are looking for. you are absolutely wrong in thinking that it is the 3 weight design that causes the mushy feeling.


The CVtech primary, is a completely new replacement primary that will replace your existing primary clutch. Your factory primary has 3 flyweights, the CVtech primary has 6 slider block weights. Yes many of you sled guys will say "this is old sled technology and sleds dont use it anymore" and you are certainly right, but this setup will blow a stock setup out of the water in an ATV and UTV. An ATV/UTV have much greater loads on the machine and clutches than a sled, and this particular slider clutch gives far greater clamping force on the belt to give you a 100% positive clutch engagement to the belt so you can clearly feel what is going on.

wrong. greater clamping force equates to changing the shift out. and your bogus "tests" of engagement clamping force are pathetic to say the least. three weights vs. six weights only has an impact on options to adjust the mass of the weights, unless you are working with a dual stage weight system like what STM offers.


This clutch setup is amazing for technical riders like rock climbers, and slow technical riders who need a clutch setup that is super smooth, and engages the belt firmly so that you can clearly feel the on/off engagement. The CVtech primary engages smooth as butter, and we can make it engage at 1600-1700RPM so you have a super smooth, amazing technical riding capability. Having a clutch setup so that you can easily sneeze on the throttle and make the machine grab and go, with -0- belt slip ever since there are 6 weights clamping down on the belt, you have a much firmer and more positive feel.

you are so full of shit about zero belt slip it's not even funny. anyone who reads that one statement should be able to figure out that you are lying. all the rest of that section can be achieved with the stock primary and some basic adjustments. NO clutch can offer zero belt slip ever. it is impossible, unless you never ride your machine....


If you are one of the guys who has already done power mods to your engine and just wanna go fast, AWESOME!!! This clutch setup, again has more weights in the primary, and gives greater clamping force on the belt, to make you launch off the line harder, and accelerate quicker since you never slip a belt, PLUS the CVtech after i machine it, is a larger diameter than your stock clutch. We can gain an 11-12% taller gear ratio, since the clutch is a larger diameter. On our first test machines, we ran them on a dyno up to the rev limiter, and would see 93-94mph on the dash. Out on the Ground, you are purely limited by your machines power as to what your top speed would be, but for acceleration and top speed hungry guys, we have the setup for you.

you keep harping on having more weights equates to more clamping force, but that is simply wrong. the only part that is accurate in that is the higher top speed potential. but couldn't you machine the primary clutch faces and achieve a higher top speed too? that's right, you can!


Are you a slow speed technical trail rider or mountain climber and hate that the XP900 does not have engine braking? Well we have the solution. Our CVtech clutches we build all have a one-way bearing. You have to specifically ask to have it removed if you dont want it. If you want your XP900 to have engine braking and hold you back as you descend a hill, we have you covered!

if this is indeed true, then we'll add that to the short list of actual reasons of what the CVtech offers over the stock primary.


Any big mud tire guys in the house, believe me we have been catering to you for years building setups that hold the belt better, and give you a lower gear ratio at take-off to help pull the bigger tires. Our setups not only gain you a lower gear ratio, putting the belt lower in the primary and higher in the secondary to gain more low end, but the 6 weights in the primary clamp the belt harder than the stock 3 weight primary so that you have a firmer belt pinch so you wont ever slip a belt in any thick nasty situations.

do you have any proof that the CVtech offers a lower starting ratio or did you confuse this with the can-am forum? the QSC modified polaris primary for the can-ams technically offers a lower starting ratio than your CVtech. and seriously, get off the 6 weight vs. 3 weight soap box. it is doing nothing but proving your lack of knowledge of how clutches work.


In the video you can clearly see the ///AIRDAM clutched machine is clearly faster in a drag race, and easily pulls harder out of the hole. This is doe to the CVtech primary having a lower starting gear ratio, firmer belt pinch with 6 primary weights that eliminate belt slip on hard launches, plus the CVtech primary is a shorter design, more compact, and weighs less. The more compact design, with all the weight placed towards the center of the clutch, reduces unsprung mass the crankshaft has to turn, plus the CVtech primary being lighter than the OEM clutch allows the machine to rev faster, which in turn equates to faster acceleration.

you still haven't proven that the CVtech revs faster under load. i've asked a few times and i've talked with plenty of people who noticed ZERO difference when they removed the weight from the back of their CVtech. so again, do you have any proof of your claims?


We built 3 machines for one owner last August, and he ran them thru the baja 1000 this last year with no failures and not a single belt blown. He now uses his machine for fast paced woods riding, and rock climbing derbys. He has been a wonderful tester, and after 8 months of riding and beating the machines apart every one of his buddies that has an XP, also now owns the same clutch he does. We can easily build you a setup to suit your needs. It does not matter if you want an all-around setup for duning and open desert, or strictly mud with big tires, or high elevations, or strictly drag racing your buddies. I can build to suit, and will gladly help you out perform any other setup on the market.

if that is all accurate, that's a great customer testimonial. but the same could have been achieved with the stock primary adjusted for his needs. it's not the crappy can-am primary you are comparing to here....


For you guys with TURBOs, and huge ALBA motors, we also sell the full STM setups. We can build you a complete STM primary and secondary setup to suit your needs if you have huge power. Our CVtech primary wont handle but about 120hp reliably, so for owners who have go-fast in their blood and need a bullet proof go-fast setup we can help you out and get you fixed up. If you are interested in a setup, send us an email and answer these questions and i will give you your options and help get you dialed in completely.

at least you have finally admitted that the CVtech is not for high power machines.




for those that don't know, adam has been marketing the crap out of the CVtech clutches for a while now. his marketing strategy is to make claims that he never backs up, shows "testing" that really doesn't show anything that matters, and then usually gets his panties in a wad when i call him out on his bullshit. does the CVtech work? yup. is it the holy grail like adam likes to claim? nope. as i've said numerous times, give me a 3 flyweight primary and i can make it work exactly like anything adam can make the CVtech do. everything he has offered in this thread is available with the stock primary, but it'll take a little bit of work. is that work for everyone? not at all, which is why the CVtech is a reasonable upgrade for those people. i'm not hating on the CVtech, just putting things into perspective, since adam seems to have severe issues with that.
 

·
The Dark Knight
Joined
·
1,379 Posts
Is that GotWake?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
You have made a hobby out of this haven't you?

yup, correcting blatantly false information is a hobby. the brand/person doesn't matter. adam just seems to only be able to market his products by lying and spreading misinformation. if he'd just let the products speak for themselves instead of lying about them, i would have nothing to correct. it is one thing to have an uninformed customer post fallacies about them due to lack of knowledge. it is something completely different when a vendor outright lies about a product. the sad thing is that the ATV industry is still way behind in the CVT game and the vast majority of owners don't know nearly what the sled guys know, so they are not equipped to sift through the lies and BS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Call it lies if you want I'm very happy with what I got from Airdam. Why don't you just go ahead and build us the perfect clutch since you are so knowledgable then I will scrap Adams set up and buy yours. Until then I'm keeping my ///AIRDAM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
have i ever said customers aren't happy with the products from airdam? nope. there are tons. and that's the whole point. let the results speak for themselves instead of the constant lies and misinformation. adam is doing more to uneducate the ATV crowd than ANY other manufacturer. the products are great for what they are designed for and don't need the constant lies from adam to sell them.

i've already designed a secondary that only needs to be adjusted for motor power increases, never for tire changes, elevation changes, or riding condition changes. but how many people are going to spend over $1,500 on a secondary? i can't justify the cost to build it, so i can't expect that people would justify the cost to buy it. so unless i come up with a more cost effective way of making it, it'll never end up on the market.

let me ask you guys who think adam is all knowing and that he should be allowed to spread the lies and misinformation without anyone calling out his BS, do you really honestly believe that with a CVtech primary your belt will NEVER slip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I may be the typical rzr owner. Pretty handy with engines but this CVT is absolutely foreign to me. After reading the entire thread, GWP sounds much more logical in his rebuttal than airdam did in his original post. So, GWP, I have a turbo xp9 that I just burned a piston. Currently I am installing a 975cc kit and having the turbo redesigned. Going to stay fairly low boost, 8-10lbs. I am anticipating maybe 110-120 rwhp. All that I want is it to hit hard and fast. Could care less how smooth it is. With out spending 1,000's, other than an adjustable weight kit, which i already have, what would you suggest?
 

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
Wow, for a minute I thought I was on the High Lifter board...

the sad thing is adam is lying MORE here than i have seen on highlifter... if he would just stick to the facts and legitimate features nobody would ever see me post in his infomercial threads except reinforcing the positive aspects of what he offers and thanking him for actually marketing his offerings without lying and twisting information.
 

·
got wake?
Joined
·
92 Posts
I may be the typical rzr owner. Pretty handy with engines but this CVT is absolutely foreign to me. After reading the entire thread, GWP sounds much more logical in his rebuttal than airdam did in his original post. So, GWP, I have a turbo xp9 that I just burned a piston. Currently I am installing a 975cc kit and having the turbo redesigned. Going to stay fairly low boost, 8-10lbs. I am anticipating maybe 110-120 rwhp. All that I want is it to hit hard and fast. Could care less how smooth it is. With out spending 1,000's, other than an adjustable weight kit, which i already have, what would you suggest?

sorry for the delay in response, i've been a bit busy lately. i'm not trying to turn this thread into a clutch setup or discussion of other products. i simply wanted to refute some of the absolutely bogus claims from airdam because those who don't know much about CVT's will buy into it not knowing it is completely wrong. that being said, feel free to start another thread or PM me with the following details and i'll be glad to help.

what clutch weights do you have?
what primary spring?
what secondary spring?
what helix?
do you have tools to disassemble the primary?
do you have access to a bench sander?
are you willing to risk destroying your clutch weights?

the last two are in case you would like to setup dual engagement areas on the clutch weights. they are commonly referred to as cheater weights in the sled world. basically you'd have two engagement spots on the weights. one that allows for nice, smooth, low rpm engagement when you are light on the throttle which is just used for loading onto your trailer and really slow areas. the second engagement point comes on really hard at a higher rpm. when you mash the throttle from a stop, you won't even feel the first engagement spot, just the neck snap of the higher rpm engagement. if you want to take on that venture, get a hold of some used stock weights to practice grinding on. once you get the hang of it, they are actually quite easy to modify. i've ground a few sets and shipped them to be installed on bikes around the world without ever seeing the bike in person. they all loved the dual engagement grind and their shift outs were all within 50 rpm of target and perfectly flat.

for anyone who wants to learn about CVT's so you can be better equipped to tune your own setup as well as sift through the BS, i highly recommend picking up the clutch tuning handbook. it covers the basics all the way up to more advanced topics. if you find that you understand all things covered in the book and want to learn even more advanced topics, PM me and i'll send you some links to a few tech articles.

http://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Tuning-Handbook-Updated-2009/dp/B0055DOXXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340639389&sr=8-1&keywords=clutch+tuning+handbook
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top