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Rzr 1000xp sxs w/35" tires mudding gear reduction suggestions

3K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  Bowman89 
#1 ·
I have a rzr 1000xp with 35" tires and stock clutches, we only go mudding, so we ride slow, I've replaced the belt almost every time I go riding, is getting expensive, I'm trying to figure out how much reduction I need, maybe better belt grip? Or just a gear reduction? I've found a transmission gear reduction kit from super atv which gives it 38% gear reduction for about $579.

I spoke with the guy from Hunterworks who i found through YouTube he does a lot of diy videos, he gave me a number to his buddy that does gear reductions ( in case anyone wants that info, its Carl Donica 903-537-2419 Rzrworks@outlook.com)
, he's suggesting 54% Low range, 26% Reverse and High, for $1095.00, the kit will include the necessary gearing for the specified ratio's, HD Reverse Chain and Sprocket and one new bearing for the clutch end of the input shaft, (that one is hard to R&R without damaging it. He upgrade the above kits to a Double Reverse Chain, $200.00 additional, HD Bearing Retainer Kit, $55.00 (if purchased with a kit). Recommended....

what do you guys think? How much reduction do I need? Not trying to waste a bunch of money on portals, I'm new to this but I'm reading that stock clutches with a gear reduction is the way to go if you're mudding? Any advice would be appreciate it, thanks...
 

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#2 ·
You were given some bad information. If you want to do a trans gear reduction you can purchase OEM gears at a fraction of that price. See: Gear Reductions - All Models

For a mud machine portals are a far better option than a trans gear reduction. See: Portals - The Definitive Guide



There is a lot of information on the forums concerning gear reductions and portals. Take some time and do a little research.
 
#3 ·
X200 on the bad info…take advice from people like rzrjoe and i among others that actually ride with gear reduction and don’t just sell parts for it. Parts price is kinda high.
Gotta start with what year is your rzr?
 
#4 ·
Saw in your other post it’s a 2016…so
You’re on 35’s playing in mud. If deep sticky mud and you don’t care about top speed in high gear you could do

superatv double reverse chain kit for a Polaris general-gets the low gear you’re wanting AND the double reverse chain since youre
3235232
3235450
3235451
on a 1k I believe that’s closer to 47/26/26

Add 13% with a superatv stage three kit to all gears

Not recommended but absolutely necessary would be the HD pinion retainer

And since you’re a 2016 it would be a very good idea to upgrade the bearings while you’re in there

THEN when a certain someone comes out with clutch kits specifically for gear reduction rzrs then add our I mean their clutch kit for super grip on the belt. They’re coming in just a couple weeks. Website is being built.

hit up @RockPeakUTV for the best pricing on the gears and satv stuff to go with it

lots of people out there spreading bad info on the gear reduction topic
 
#8 ·
Saw in your other post it’s a 2016…so
You’re on 35’s playing in mud. If deep sticky mud and you don’t care about top speed in high gear you could do

superatv double reverse chain kit for a Polaris general-gets the low gear you’re wanting AND the double reverse chain since youre
3235232
3235450
3235451
on a 1k I believe that’s closer to 47/26/26

Add 13% with a superatv stage three kit to all gears

Not recommended but absolutely necessary would be the HD pinion retainer

And since you’re a 2016 it would be a very good idea to upgrade the bearings while you’re in there

THEN when a certain someone comes out with clutch kits specifically for gear reduction rzrs then add our I mean their clutch kit for super grip on the belt. They’re coming in just a couple weeks. Website is being built.

hit up @RockPeakUTV for the best pricing on the gears and satv stuff to go with it

lots of people out there spreading bad info on the gear reduction topic
Yes it's a 2016 two seater 1000xp stock clutches, spring in the primary is so damn hard I had to put on the floor, I'm 235lbs, I put all my weight on it and used a drill to get 1 screw in just to hold the cover down, not sure if the spring is supposed to be so stiff? not sure if maybe i should do the clutch kit? Which one do you recommend? The more belt grip the better...

Thanks crash city for the reply, let me check out those part numbers, yeah it's frustrating getting the wrong info, and it feels a little overpriced, but I don't know shit so I'm asking you guys what you think.
 
#6 ·
@Eddiesxs I will send you a link to a quote with all of the parts @Crash City SxS mentioned above including the HD bearing plate and chain kit.

If you have 3000 plus miles on the transmission, it's not a bad idea to go ahead and do the bearings and seals while you have it apart. Just let me know and I can add them.


Seth
 
#9 ·
@Eddiesxs I will send you a link to a quote with all of the parts @Crash City SxS mentioned above including the HD bearing plate and chain kit.

If you have 3000 plus miles on the transmission, it's not a bad idea to go ahead and do the bearings and seals while you have it apart. Just let me know and I can add them.


Seth

Just checked it, it has 3337 miles, I'll be checking my messages, send me the quote please.
 
#12 · (Edited)
got the prices from Rock peak utv, how necessary is that reverse chain? How many bearings do I need to replace? I need to watch your video again...

So with just these 3 parts, I get a great reduction of 47 on low? 26 on high and reverse? Or like you said pretty close to it?

Like I said, were new to this, were just trying to keep up with everyone else, tired of blowing my belts and breaking covers. I appreciate everyone's help.
 
#13 ·
As a guy who broke a reverse chain, I don't think it's necessary, but I would still recommend you do it. If you know reverse is a chain and not a gear (I didn't until after it broke), and drive accordingly, it shouldn't really be a problem. But since you're already into it, it's a pretty safe bet to add it for extra strength in reverse. Same reason to do the bearings, you don't want to have to tear it all back apart to fix something you could have done the first time.
 
#14 ·
For your reduction question:
A stock XP 1000 29" Diameter tire has a circumference of ~91"
A 35" tires has a circumference of ~110"

So a 35" tire changes your final drive by ~120%. That is that much leverage back through your drive train, axles, transmission all the way to your clutches. For most of us west of the continental divide, the stock gearing in Low already isn't low enough even on 29s. Pile on the 35s, and it's hard on things. With the reduction kit here, you will be a good bit lower than stock in Low gear and back close to stock final drive ratios in High and Revers with the 35" tires. I haven't had one person come back and say, "oh it's too low now".

The reverse chain is a known weak point in the XP1K transmission. In fact, SATV just released an all new transmission for the XP 1000 and the main selling point is that the reverse chain has been replaced with full gear drive. I don't think they grenade too often just backing out of a parking spots, it's usually when you are in a predicament like deep snow or deep mud and then you suddenly find traction with one of the tires.

On a 2 seater, "Net reduction with the kit we are suggesting is: 53.67% Low : 26.54% High : 26.54% Reverse". Roughly. you can subtract %20 from each numbers for your bigger tires, so you're final drive net reduction should be ~33% reduction in low, and 6% in H and R.
 
#18 ·
Don’t cheap out on clutches it’ll just bite you in the long run. Get a team tied secondary for sure, and as far as the primary goes I know a lot of people stick with oem. I’m running aftermarket assassins on mine haven’t had any trouble out of it.

And yes the sxs game gets expensive really fast. Depending on how hardcore you go 15-20k dropped isn’t as hard as you think ask me how I know 😂
 
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